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Layout/Cutting Marking in Garment Making

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After purchasing fabric, pattern, notions, and preparing the fabric (on grain and pre-shrunk / washed), you are ready to do the pattern layout. A layout is a plan for the placement of pattern pieces on the fabric. There are various categories of layout marking like grainlines, place of fold brackets, notches etc. There are also various methods of cutting marking such as single size, multi-size, and cutting in particular body size.

After purchasing fabric, pattern, notions, and preparing the fabric (on grain and pre-shrunk / washed), you are ready to do the pattern layout. A layout is a plan for the placement of pattern pieces on the fabric. There are various categories of layout marking like grainlines, place of fold brackets, notches etc. There are also various methods of cutting marking such as single size, multi-size, and cutting in particular body size.

Layout Markings

GrainlineGrainline: This heavy, solid line with arrows at both ends are usually in the centre of the pattern, although it can appear anywhere within the
pattern piece. Use it to ensure the pattern is positioned along the straight grain of the fabric so
that the garment or project hangs properly. Unless otherwise indicated, pin the pattern piece so the grainline is parallel to the fabric selvedge.

Place of Bracket CuttingPlace on Fold Bracket: This solid line with arrows that point to the pattern piece edge indicates that the piece should be positioned along the fabric fold. This usually applies to garments that do not have a centre front or centre back seam.

NotchesNotches: Diamond or trapezoidal shaped symbols along the seamline
are used both in pattern layout and during construction. When you are
laying out the pattern pieces to match a plaid, stripe or large design,
position adjoining notches so that the fabric at the seamlines (not the cutting lines) will match when the seams are sewn.

Cutting Markings

Single Size Cutting LineCutting Line (single size): The outer line of the pattern piece provides
a guide for cutting the fabric. The line sometimes has an illustration of
tiny scissors on it.

Multi Size Cutting LineCutting line (multi-size): Multi-size patterns have several sizes printed
on the same tissue and are sold in one envelope. Sometimes the
multiple cutting lines are all solid, in which case it helps to highlight your size before cutting, and sometimes each cutting line is a slightly different line configuration.

Cutting line within the body of the pattern: When the design has a shorter view, there is often a cutting line for the shorter length within the pattern.

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