One unit of confirmation of thread resulting from repeatedly passing a strand or strands or loops of thread into or through a material is called a stitch. There are two basic stitch formations, lock stitch and chain stitch. In all cases the stitch develops from the formation of a loop in the needle thread as the needle rises from its lowest point. This loop is either inter-looped with the preceding loop or inter-looped with other threads, or interlaced with an under thread in lockstitch.

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What is stitch?

One unit of confirmation of thread resulting from repeatedly passing a strand or strands or loops of thread into or through a material is called a stitch.

Stitch Items:

	Intra-looping – is passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by the same thread, example stitch type 101.
	Interlooping – is passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a different thread, example stitch type 401.
	Interlacing – is passing of a thread over or around another thread or loop of another thread, example stitch type 301.

Stitch types can be formed by:

Without a material
Inside material
Through material
On material

Stitch types of designation

Textile stitch types-classification and terminology, stitches are catalogued into six classes (as per BS3870/ASTM D-6193/ISO 4915:1991). The international and standardization uses the identical numbering.

Stitch quality

Stitch quality is measured with stitch size (stitch length, width, and depth) tension, sequence, elongation, elasticity, resilience, fabric distortion, yarn severance, abrasive strength.

Class 100:

is chain stitch type, is formed with one or more needle threads introduced from one side of the material only.

chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be ravelled;
particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.
Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching.

Class 200:

is a hand stitch type, is formed by single thread passed from one side of the material to the other in successive needle penetrations.

a slow process and need huge manpower to finish bulk order.
Used for handwork.

Class 300:

is a lock stitch type, is formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one side of the material, interlacing with an under thread

supplied from a bobbin on the other side.
low bulk and thin, good strength and abrasion resistance
Poor elasticity, non ravel
limited sewing length, need to replace bobbin thread.
for seams requiring stretch.

Class 400:

is multi thread chain stitch type, is formed with two/more groups of threads having general characteristic of interlacing interloping of the loops of the two groups.

non ravel, strong, good elasticity, less likely to cause seam pucker due to structural jamming
good seam stretch
does not need to wind bobbin
lower resistance to runback and have increased bulk under the seam

Stitch classes

Stitch classes are designated and identified by the first digit of a “3 digit numeral system”. Type of stitch within each class are designated and identified by 2nd and 3rd digit.

Class 500:

is over lock over edge stitch type, is formed with one or more needles and/or loopier threads with at least one thread passing round the edge of the material being sewn.

Excellent stretchable good recovery
Seam or edge neatening
suitable for many types of fabric
subject to fraying or slippage.

Class 600:

is formed with two or more groups of threads, has for a general characteristic that two groups of thread cover surfaces of the material.

High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam stitch, Bulk, Fast machine speed
No need of Bobbin
Greater thread consumption
Covering stitches for decorative purpose, Can be used to join two raw edges, suitable for knitted garments.

Combination of stitch types:

is formed when two or more rows of stitches of different classes are formed simultaneously in one separation.

These are denoted by using two individual stitch type designations, joined with a dot for example 401.504
Save time, labour, cost.
more investment required

« Previous Topic Seam Types	Next Topic » Hand Stitch Types

Seam types are the place where two pieces of fabric are joined by application of a series of stitches or stitch types with a defined geometry. Over the years there are a number of different types of seams that have been developed to do different jobs. Many have largely been superseded by the development of machine stitches that finish as you sew them, and by the development of the over locker (or serger in some parts of the world), it is useful to know some of the basic seams types and finishes.	Hand stitches have many uses. Before the sewing machine, garment-making was done exclusively by hand. However, in today’s home sewing world of sophisticated sewing machines and sergers, few garments are made entirely by hand.But, many home-sewn and custom-made garments continue to have some type of hand stitching used primarily as finishing techniques (hemming, securing fasteners, etc.). Thus, knowing and understanding the proper stitch to use is important to the item’s appearance as well as

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What are the different Stitch Types ?