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 December 7, 2013
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# Broken Twills

A broken twill weave composed of vertical sections which are alternately right hand and left hand in direction. In Broken Twills, twills are constructed by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave. They are formed by reversing the pattern part way through the repeat. The Break can be achieved in different ways.

 Broken Twills

These twills are constructed by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave. The continuity can be broken in either a regular or an irregular order. Broken twills generally give a stripe like effect. The direction of the stripes can tend to be in either the direction of warp or weft accordingly as the continuity is broken warp or weft way.

A large variety of attractive effects, generally somewhat similar in appearance to herring bone twills, can be produced by breaking a regular twill. One of the simplest methods of constructing a broken twill is shown in figure. The method involves skipping a suitable warp thread in a repeat of the twill.

At figure, A is shown a 1/3 twill with three repeats and the design of the broken twill is shown in Fig. 4.15 B. In the method adopted above, the most suitable number to skip is one less than half the number of threads in the repeat of the twill i.e (N/2 – 1) where N is the number of threads in the repeat of the twill. According to the above formula the number of threads to miss is 4/2 – 1 = 2 – 1 = 1. Thus in the design, the second end is missed in first repeat, third end is missed in second repeat and fourth end is missed in third repeat. It should be remembered that no similar ends must be missed in any two or three repeats.

##### Combination twills

Combination twills find extensive use in the worsted industry in the production of garment fabrics, as these weaves are capable of producing compact textures. These twills are constructed by two methods 1. End and end combination 2.Pick and pick combination. In the first method the twill weaves are combined end way and in the second method twill weaves are combined in pick way. In combination with twill weaves two different types of continuous twills are combined together alternately.

##### Transposed Twills

The diagonal effect is broken by transposition of the original order of the threads are called Transposed Twills