Characteristics of Twill Weave

Twill Weave is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. In plain weave the warp and weftare aligned so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads thatits neighbor went over, and vice versa. Plain weave is also known as “tabby weave” or “taffeta weave”.Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.

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Common Characteristics of Twill Weaves

  • May have face/back and up/down orientation
  • Interesting surface and texture
  • Seldom printed
  • Soil less evident
  • More pliable
  • Better wrinkle recovery
  • High counts possible (more durable)
  • More expensive
  • Wale may be prominent

Common twill fabrics

  1. Even sided:
    • Serge – Common worsted suiting fabric, 2/2 RH
    • Herringbone – Alternating twill
    • Checks – Color effect weaves, usually 2/2 twill
    • Houndstooth
    • Surah- silk or silky yarns
  2. warp faced
    • Denim – (Serge de Nimes), Classically 3/1 LH
    • Gabardine – Steep twill, slacks, uniform
  3. Twills are not as strong as plain weaves with similar construction.
  4. Twills show less dirt/stains because of their uneven surface as compared to plain weaves
  5. Recover better from wrinkles
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Prominance of Twill Weaves
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Twill Weave Derivatives
An important factor that influences the prominence of twill is the direction of twist in the yarn. When the direction of yarn twist is same as the twill direction, the prominence is reduced and when the direction of the the yarn twist is opposite to the twill direction, the prominence of the twill is increased. In other words a Z twill with Z twist yarn or an S twill with S twist yarn shows less prominence. Certain weaves,based on their construction or use are group into categories, For instance , the plain weave may be considered as a standard construction .One of the largest of these classes is that of twill weaves, which are so called because of the peculiar effect they form on the surface of the fabric. Many of the simpler twills have , like the plain weave , acquired distinctive names by which they are readily recogonised by experienced designers.