Special Weaving Machines

This definition identifies the weaving machines equipped with particular devices to permit the
production of particular types of fabrics. We shall handle here terry fabrics, double velvets, and
narrow fabrics weaving machines.

Terry weaving machines

For the production of terry fabrics, following machines are used: rapier, projectile or even air jet
machines. These machines differ from the standard machines for plain fabric production owing to
following features:

1. double bearing, to house two beams: the ground warp beam, generally situated down, and the loop yarn beam, in an upper position in order not to increase floor space requirement, even when using large diameter beams;
2. double warp let-off electronic motions with auxiliary motors electrically connected to the
   driving motor of the cloth take-up roller and controlled by the machine’s PLC;
3. loop formation mechanism: this device permits to close up the wefts to the cloth formation edge during the first two or three insertions, however without tightening them completely (short stroke or pre-strokes), and to produce their definite tightening against the cloth together with the third or fourth weft (long or loop stroke), with subsequent formation of the loop by the effect warp. This occurs because the group of wefts slides on the stretched ground threads, while the less tensioned threads of the pile warp, being tied up within the group of wefts, bend to form loops. The distance of the wefts closed up to the cloth formation edge (pre-stroke length) gives rise to the loop height. This last can present maximum values ranging, depending on the manufacturer, from 19 to 25 mm, corresponding to maximum loop height between 9 and 12.5 mm;
4. electronic microprocessor controlled device: this permits to program the formation of the
   various effects (high loop, low loop, the absence of loop, fringes) by means of an automatic control of the related mechanisms. Moreover, it permits to program the manufacture of single towels or of towel sets in a prearranged number and to execute on each of them a sequence of motifs. The sequence can be programmed at will, according to one’s own needs, or can be chosen out of a series of programmed sequences.

The loop forming mechanisms mostly in use are based on the principle of causing a shifting of the fabric and of the warp, so as to modify the position between the stroking reed and the fabric formation edge.

The reed maintains a regular movement, whereas the fabric edge is displaced periodically from the stroke point through the horizontal shogging of the temples, of the cloth diverting beam and of the backrest roller. Thus two or three pre-strokes followed by a looping stroke are produced, with the consequent formation of the loops.

Double velvet weaving machines

While loop pile velvets are produced with wire weaving technique, which is quite labor intensive, cut pile velvets are produced on particular machines which permit to obtain two pieces of fabric at the same time.

These machines are equipped with a 3 position shedding device (dobby or Jacquard machine), so as to form two overlapped and properly spaced out sheds and to permit to the pile warp to tie up the two fabrics together. Into each of the two shed a weft is inserted, usually by means of a pair of superimposed rods driven by the same gear.

The pile warp is subsequently cut directly on the machine through a blade with horizontal traverse motion, thus forming the pile on both fabrics, which are then wound up separately. This system is largely used today owing to its high performance.

Ribbon weaving machines