Men’s shirt manufacturing processes, major components of shirts, types of shirts, types of pockets, types of plackets, types of cuffs, types of collars
MEN’S FORMAL SHIRT
OPERATION BREAKDOWN
| OPN NO. | OPERATIONS | MACHINE TYPE | SMV | |
| Collar Preparation | ||||
| 1. | Collar fusing | IRON | 0.25 | |
| 2. | Collar make mark+ match | MANUAL | 0.25 | |
| 3. | Collar run stitch | SNLS | 0.45 | |
| 4. | Collar edge trimming | SNLSEC | 0.20 | |
| 5. | Collar turn | WS | 0.35 | |
| 6. | Collar topstitch | SNLS | 0.40 | |
| 7. | NB hemstitch | SNLS | 0.25 | |
| 8. | Collar +Band match | MANUAL | 0.3 | |
| 9. | Insert collar in neckband | SNLS | 0.55 | |
| 10. | Collar pick shape ready | SNLS | 0.91 | |
| 11. | Collar pick turn and Trimming | TABLE | 0.35 | |
| 12. | Collar pick centre stitch | SNLS | 0.31 | |
| 13. | Collar ready cutting | SNLSEC | 0.18 | |
| 14. | Collar notch and mark | TABLE | 0.15 | |
| TOTAL | 4.9 | |||
| Cuff preparation | ||||
| 15. | Cuff hemstitch | SNLS | 0.27 | |
| 16. | Cuff Run stitch | SNLS | 0.55 | |
| 17. | Cuff edge trimming | SNLSEC | 0.20 | |
| 18. | Cuff notch and trimming | TABLE | 0.30 | |
| 19. | Cuff turn and crease | WS | 0.35 | |
| 20. | Cuff topstitch | SNLS | 0.55 | |
| 21. | Cuff Finish Iron | IRON | 0.30 | |
| TOTAL | 2.52 | |||
| Sleeve Preparation | ||||
| 22. | Sleeve lower placket attach | SNLS | 0.35 | |
| 23. | Sleeve lower placket tacking | SNLS | 0.28 | |
| 24. | Sleeve upper placket crease | IRON | 0.50 | |
| 25. | Sleeve upper placket attach | SNLS | 0.75 | |
| 26. | Sleeve pleat mark | SNLS | 0.20 | |
| 27. | Sleeve pleat stitch | TABLE | 0.30 | |
| TOTAL | 2.38 | |||
| Front Preparation | |||
| 28. | Front button placket attach | SNLS | 0.40 |
| 29. | Front BH placket attach | K-S | 0.40 |
| 30. | Front placket attach mark | TABLE | 0.18 |
| 31. | Front placket crease | IRON | 0.40 |
| 32. | Front placket raw edge cut | TABLE | 0.20 |
| 33. | Front placket hem stitch | SNLS | 0.25 |
| 34. | Front placket attach | SNLS | 0.65 |
| 35. | Front placket T/S | SNLS | 0.15 |
| 36. | Front placket set and trim | TABLE | 0.28 |
| 37. | Front button placket label
mark |
TABLE | 0.20 |
| 38. | Front button placket
label attach |
SNLS | 0.35 |
| 39. | Wash Care label attach | SNLS | 0.25 |
| TOTAL | 3.71 | ||
| Back Preparation | |||
| 40. | Main+ Fit label attaches to back yoke | SNLS | 0.20 |
| 41. | Back yoke attach | SNLS | 0.55 |
| 42. | Back yoke topstitch | SNLS | 0.50 |
| TOTAL | 1.25 | ||
| Assembly | |||
| 44. | Front and back setting | TABLE | 0.50 |
| 45. | Shoulder attach | SNLS | 0.60 |
| 46. | Shoulder attach T/S | SNLS | 0.40 |
| 47. | Collar attach | SNLS | 0.50 |
| 48. | Collar tape crease | IRON | 0.20 |
| 49. | Collar tape attach | SNLS | 0.35 |
| 50. | Collar close | SNLS | 0.60 |
| 51. | Sleeve match | ||
| 52. | Sleeve attach | SNLS | 0.90 |
| 53. | Sleeve inside allowance cut | MANUAL | 0.25 |
| 54. | Armhole T/S | SNLS | 0.52 |
| 55. | Side seam attach | FOA | 0.70 |
| 56. | Cuff setting | TABLE | 0.20 |
| 57. | Cuff attach | SNLS | 0.60 |
| 58. | Bottom trimming | TABLE | 0.20 |
| 59. | Bottom hemstitch | SNLS | 0.60 |
| 60. | Mark for button sew | TABLE | 0.40 |
| 61 | Buttonhole | BH | 1.17 |
| 62. | Button attach | BTN | 1.02 |
| 63. | Final thread cut | MANUAL | 0.8 |
| TOTAL | 10.51 |
| TOTAL SMV OF SHIRT | |
| Total operations | SMV |
| Collar preparation | 4.9 |
| Cuff Preparation | 2.52 |
| Sleeve Preparation | 2.38 |
| Front Preparation | 3.71 |
| Back Preparation | 1.25 |
| Assembly | 10.51 |
| TOTAL SMV | 25.27 |
Here,
- IRN – Iron Machine
- SNLS – Single needle lock stitch
- SNLSEC – Single needle lock stitch with edge cutter
- 3 OL – 3 thread Overlock
- DNL – Double-needle lockstitch machine
- K-S – Kansai machine
- FOA – Feed of the arm
- BH- Buttonhole machine
- BTN- Button attaching machine
BOTTLENECK IN A SHIRT
These are the bottleneck operations in manufacturing a shirt, as it takes more time due to interlining and the number of stitches involved in it.
- Collar making and attachment
- Collar tape attach
- Diamond placket attach
COSTING
Stitching cost
Operators wage per day= Rs. 400 Total working hours per day= 8 hrs
Wage per minute= (8*60)/400
= Rs. 1.2
Total SMV of shirt= 25.27 minutes
Total cost= Wage per minute* Total SMV of shirt
= 1.2*25.27
= Rs. 30.32
Cutting cost
| Panels | No. of pieces |
| Collar | 2 |
| Collar band | 2 |
| Cuff | 4 |
| Front | 2 |
| Back | 1 |
| Yoke | 1 |
| Collar fusing | 1 |
| Cuff fusing | 1 |
| Trim | 3 |
Total cost=Rs 2.50
Trims cost
| List of Trims | Quantity |
| Sewing Thread | 1 |
| Buttons | 6 |
| Brand label | 1 |
| Wash care label | 1 |
| Size label | 1 |
Total cost=Rs 6.00
Fabric cost
| Fabric | Quantity | Cost/mtr | Total cost(Rs) |
| Main fabric | 1.2 meter | 80 | 96 |
| Trim fabric | 1/4 meter | 80 | 20 |
Total cost=Rs 116
Finishing cost
| Finishing process | Total cost |
| washing | 10 |
| pressing | |
| Embroidery |
Total cost=Rs 10.00
Packaging cost
| Materials | cost |
| Cartoon | 0.5 |
| Polybag | 0.5 |
| Plastic collar
band |
0.5 |
| collar butterfly | 0.5 |
| Back cardboard | 3 |
Total cost=Rs 5.00
Total cost
Total cost of garment= (Sewing +cutting +Trim +Fabric +Finishing +Packaging) cost
= Rs. (30.32+2.50+6.00+116+10.00+5.00)
= Rs. 169.82
Placket
