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SHIRT MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Men’s shirt manufacturing processes, major components of shirts, types of shirts, types of pockets, types of plackets, types of cuffs, types of collars

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MEN’S FORMAL SHIRT

OPERATION BREAKDOWN

OPN NO. OPERATIONS MACHINE TYPE SMV
Collar Preparation
1. Collar fusing IRON 0.25
2. Collar make mark+ match MANUAL 0.25
3. Collar run stitch SNLS 0.45
4. Collar edge trimming SNLSEC 0.20
5. Collar turn WS 0.35
6. Collar topstitch SNLS 0.40
7. NB hemstitch SNLS 0.25
8. Collar +Band match MANUAL 0.3
9. Insert collar in neckband SNLS 0.55
10. Collar pick shape ready SNLS 0.91
11. Collar pick turn and Trimming TABLE 0.35
12. Collar pick centre stitch SNLS 0.31
13. Collar ready cutting SNLSEC 0.18
14. Collar notch and mark TABLE 0.15
TOTAL 4.9
Cuff preparation
15. Cuff hemstitch SNLS 0.27
16. Cuff Run stitch SNLS 0.55
17. Cuff edge trimming SNLSEC 0.20
18. Cuff notch and trimming TABLE 0.30
19. Cuff turn and crease WS 0.35
20. Cuff topstitch SNLS 0.55
21. Cuff Finish Iron IRON 0.30
TOTAL 2.52
Sleeve Preparation
22. Sleeve lower placket attach SNLS 0.35
23. Sleeve lower placket tacking SNLS 0.28
24. Sleeve upper placket crease IRON 0.50
25. Sleeve upper placket attach SNLS 0.75
26. Sleeve pleat mark SNLS 0.20
27. Sleeve pleat stitch TABLE 0.30
TOTAL 2.38

 

Front Preparation
28. Front button placket attach SNLS 0.40
29. Front BH placket attach K-S 0.40
30. Front placket attach mark TABLE 0.18
31. Front placket crease IRON 0.40
32. Front placket raw edge cut TABLE 0.20
33. Front placket hem stitch SNLS 0.25
34. Front placket attach SNLS 0.65
35. Front placket T/S SNLS 0.15
36. Front placket set and trim TABLE 0.28
37. Front button placket label

mark

TABLE 0.20
38. Front button placket

label attach

SNLS 0.35
39. Wash Care label attach SNLS 0.25
TOTAL 3.71
Back Preparation
40. Main+ Fit label attaches to back yoke SNLS 0.20
41. Back yoke attach SNLS 0.55
42. Back yoke topstitch SNLS 0.50
TOTAL 1.25
Assembly
44. Front and back setting TABLE 0.50
45. Shoulder attach SNLS 0.60
46. Shoulder attach T/S SNLS 0.40
47. Collar attach SNLS 0.50
48. Collar tape crease IRON 0.20
49. Collar tape attach SNLS 0.35
50. Collar close SNLS 0.60
51. Sleeve match
52. Sleeve attach SNLS 0.90
53. Sleeve inside allowance cut MANUAL 0.25
54. Armhole T/S SNLS 0.52
55. Side seam attach FOA 0.70

 

56. Cuff setting TABLE 0.20
57. Cuff attach SNLS 0.60
58. Bottom trimming TABLE 0.20
59. Bottom hemstitch SNLS 0.60
60. Mark for button sew TABLE 0.40
61 Buttonhole BH 1.17
62. Button attach BTN 1.02
63. Final thread cut MANUAL 0.8
TOTAL 10.51

 

TOTAL SMV OF SHIRT
Total operations SMV
Collar preparation 4.9
Cuff Preparation 2.52
Sleeve Preparation 2.38
Front Preparation 3.71
Back Preparation 1.25
Assembly 10.51
TOTAL SMV 25.27

 

Here,

  • IRN – Iron Machine
  • SNLS – Single needle lock stitch
  • SNLSEC – Single needle lock stitch with edge cutter
  • 3 OL – 3 thread Overlock
  • DNL – Double-needle lockstitch machine
  • K-S – Kansai machine
  • FOA – Feed of the arm
  • BH- Buttonhole machine
  • BTN- Button attaching machine

BOTTLENECK IN A SHIRT

These are the bottleneck operations in manufacturing a shirt, as it takes more time due to interlining and the number of stitches involved in it.

  • Collar making and attachment
  • Collar tape attach
  • Diamond placket attach

COSTING

Stitching cost

Operators wage per day= Rs. 400 Total working hours per day= 8 hrs

Wage per minute= (8*60)/400

= Rs. 1.2

Total SMV of shirt= 25.27 minutes

Total cost= Wage per minute* Total SMV of shirt

= 1.2*25.27

= Rs. 30.32

Cutting cost 

Panels No. of pieces
Collar 2
Collar band 2
Cuff 4
Front 2
Back 1
Yoke 1
Collar fusing 1
Cuff fusing 1
Trim 3

Total cost=Rs 2.50

Trims cost 

List of Trims Quantity
Sewing Thread  1
Buttons 6
Brand label 1
Wash care label  1
Size label 1

Total cost=Rs 6.00

Fabric cost 

Fabric Quantity Cost/mtr Total cost(Rs)
Main fabric 1.2 meter 80 96
Trim fabric 1/4 meter 80 20

Total cost=Rs 116

Finishing cost 

Finishing process Total cost
washing 10
pressing
Embroidery

Total cost=Rs 10.00

Packaging cost

Materials cost
Cartoon 0.5
Polybag 0.5
Plastic collar

band

 

0.5

collar butterfly 0.5
Back cardboard 3

Total cost=Rs 5.00

Total cost

Total cost of garment= (Sewing +cutting +Trim +Fabric +Finishing +Packaging) cost

= Rs. (30.32+2.50+6.00+116+10.00+5.00)

= Rs. 169.82

POCKET
SLEEVES

 

Placket

CUFF
COLLAR
BACK PANEL
SHIRT YOKE
SHIRT YOKE
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