Ergonomic Improvements in Textile Industry

METHOD STUDY

Ergonomical innovations in Buttonholing Machine to increase efficiency and Simplifying the tasks

 

• The latest version of the mechanical eyelet buttonhole machine combines proven sewing functions of earlier models with new improved mechanisms. The result is an optimization of sewing quality, sewing speed, reliability, ergonomics, and noise
• The S-105 mechanical eyelet buttonhole machine is user-friendly with very simple adjustments of buttonhole type, buttonhole cutting, eye shape The S-105 is the only mechanical eyelet buttonhole machine offered with a submerged sewing head that allows the operator to handle the garment more ergonomically.
• This mechanical eyelet buttonhole machine is sewing open and flybar buttonholes with or without the eye at the speed of 1800 The buttonhole length is adjustable between 12-38 mm depending on the garment manufacturers’ requirements.

Machine Features

• High Sewing Speed up to 1,800 spm
• With speeds up to 1,800 spm, this is one of the AMF Reece’s fastest and most productive mechanical eyelet buttonhole machines. The daily productivity, based on an 8-hour shift, is about 3,300

Revolutionary Stop Motion

• The Roller Activated Stop Motion, also installed on the S-101machine, dependably positions the brake pad for a full revolution of braking every By absorbing much of the inertia prior to the stop, the life of the machine is prolonged and quality problems, such as double stops, are virtually eliminated.
• The machine spends more time sewing since components like the flyover and the eccentric cam are no longer needed and fewer adjustments are required

Semi-Automatic Lubrication System with Oil level indicator

• The S-105 is equipped with a full drip oil wick lubrication system. By using wicks to carry oil to the critical parts of the machine, oiling is easier and less time
• The advantage of this system is that it eliminates periodic oiling downtime, reduces maintenance expense, and prolongs the machine
• An oil level indicator shows the operator or mechanic when the machine is low on oil, preventing the machine from the severe damage that can be caused by running a machine without the required minimum oil

Simple Buttonhole Adjustments

• All buttonhole adjustments such as buttonhole type, cutting selection (cut before, cut after, no cut), eye shape (eye, no eye) are easily adjusted by simple usage of levers and knobs
• Aluminum bedplate
• By using an aluminum bedplate instead of a cast-iron bedplate, the weight is reduced by over 1/3. The lighter bedplate reduces stress and wears, thus prolonging the life of the machine.

Submerged Sewing Head :

• The S-105 machine is supplied with a submerged sewing head that allows the operator to handle the garments more ergonomically and helps to reduce the noise level

Available Models and Applications

S – 105 AF

• Description: Adjustable Flybar model with cut before or cut after application, regular travel, regular eye 2,8 x 4,2 mm.
• Size Adjustment: 12-38 mm
• Applications: tailored clothing, outwear, vests and jeans
• Optional Accessories:

• 0008.4.875	Work Lamp
  5511.0.002	Clamp Feet Protection Kit for Thin Material
  0279.1.000	Gauge
  4005.0.001	Looper – Single Thread
  4005.0.005	Looper – Double Thread – thin.

 

 

 

 

• The ultra-flexible, fully programmable electronic eyelet buttonhole machine incorporates the latest technologies and highest requirements to meet all manufactures’ needs. The electronic eyelet buttonhole machine combines the excellent traditional buttonhole quality performance with a new revolutionary machine design, four patented mechanisms, and currently the highest sewing
• All sewing parameters are very simply adjustable on a large full-color touch Ultra flexibility on men‘s suits is ensured by a specially designed ULTRAFLEX model where lapel buttonholes are cut fully or partially and are sewn in one sequence with jacket front buttonholes. The ES – 505 electronic eyelet buttonhole machine is available in a wide range of models including the indexer model recommended for sewing multiple buttonholes on jacket sleeves or fly fronts.

Main Features

• Currently, the fastest machine available, running at 2,700 spm
• Unbeatable sewing speed adjustable from 1,500 spm to 2,7000 spm directly from the touch screen display. Different sewing speeds can be programmed at the start/stop position, around the eye, and in the crossbar finish to ensure excellent sewing quality even on difficult materials

The new modular design of the sewing head with integrated sewing motor

• The new concept of the sewing head enables sewing in the vertical or horizontal direction and provides the operator with larger handling space in the sewing The new, stronger main drive increases machine performance and is integrated into the sewing head. The sewing head can be fixed onto the sewing table or sup¬plied as submerged according to the customer’s preference.

New patented balancing and sewing drive mechanism

• Developed to increase the machine performance, lifetime and decrease the machine

Incorporated Round LED Lights

• Incorporated LED sewing lights around the cutting block eli¬minates darker spots in the sewing area and provides opti¬mum light conditions while working on the machine.

No need for mechanical adjustments when changing the stitch bite

• A new technical solution for the stitch bite, including the two basic widths, 1.9 and 2.7 mm, ensures that the full stitch bite range is now controlled from the touch screen display only.

The new vertical cutting system instead of standard lever cutting

• The vertical cutting improves the buttonhole cutting in its whole length. The lever cutting system has been replaced by a pneumatically controlled vertical cutting mechanism applying the same pressure throughout the buttonhole length and providing the operator with clean and reliable buttonhole cutting on all types and multiple layers of material.

Independent thread tension of all threads

• The needle, looper, and gimp thread can be separately adjusted from the sewing head without the need to tilt the sewing This system improves the sewing quality on different fabrics and therefore the final buttonhole appearance.

High-Resolution Full-Color Touch Screen Display

• 7” LCD high-resolution touch screen display is fixed onto the machine table and incorporates new sewing functions. The use of easily understood symbols makes the machine very easy to operate, minimizing training time.

Pneumatic System Controls

• Pneumatic system controls are used for the clamping, spreading, cutting of the material, thread nipper, stitch bite, suction system, and also for the thread tension of needle, looper, and gimp thread

Cycle Sewing

• The cycle sewing allows up to 21 different buttonhole combinations to be sewn in 47 different programs. The operator can set the machine to sew any of the required buttonhole styles, e. to cover all buttonhole applications on a formal jacket. All settings can be done easily by the operator on the touch screen display.

New longer clamp feet

• The machine is equipped with new longer clamp feet. The longer arms improve the material handling and provide the operator with more space when clamping the sewn Availability of different types of clamp feet for a   variety of applications ensures optimum fabric clamping.

Ultra Flexibility on Men’s Suit Applications

• The Ultraflex is a specially designed model for buttonhole applications on men’s suits where lapel buttonholes are cut fully or partially. It increases the operator’s productivity since both lapel and jacket front buttonholes are sewn and cut in one sewing sequence without changing any knives and cutting
• All buttonhole parameters including the required cutting position and cutting length of the lapel buttonhole is easily saved in the machine can be optionally equipped with an optical sensor system to automatically alternate between the lapel and front buttonholes.

• The Ultraflex is supplied with LTT-long tail thread trimming The machine is equipped with the thread nipper to ensure that the first buttonhole stitch is formed properly.

Applications and Sewing Patterns

• The ES 505 machine can be used for a wide range of applications that are suited to all needs of the clothing manufacturer, both large and small. This machine can handle all types of garments ranging from light to heavyweight materials including denim and The applications of the machine can be found on formal menswear, ladies‘ wear, jeans, casual trousers, and other outwear.
• The ES 505 machine can sew a variety of buttonhole shapes with or without gimp including the round Depending on the manufacturer requirements, up to 99 different stitching patterns can be set in the memory of the machine.
• When sewing the round end finish, the operator can set two different start positions, which are either in the first row or in the eye. When the eye start is selected, the finished buttonhole looks much cleaner since the trimmed thread ends are covered by the button, especially on the trouser applications.

Thread Trimming Mechanisms and Model Classifications

The SE-505 basic models are classified according to the trimming mechanisms into AF, CT, LTT models.

AF (Adjustable Flybar)

The model is recommended for all buttonhole applications that require only top thread trimming. The size of buttonholes is adjustable from 10 to 50 mm, in increments of 1 mm.

CT (Cord Trim)

Model for use on jeans, trousers, or other applications here all threads need to be trimmed from the very end of the buttonhole. Buttonhole sizes ranging from 14 to 35 mm can be seen by using the two different clamp sets.

LTT (Long Tail Trimmer)

The model is used mostly on tailored clothing when the end of the buttonhole is left open and the long tails of the threads are pulled through the buttonhole to be tacked in a separate operation. Buttonhole length can be set from 13 to 38 mm. All threads are trimmed with a 20-30 mm tail depending on the buttonhole size.

Optional Accessories

Thread Nipper

The thread nipper holds the top thread at the start of the sewing cycle to ensure that the first stitch is formed properly especially on difficult fabrics. The new concept of the thread nipper gives a more reliable grip of the top thread. The thread nipper makes two different movements – vertical and horizontal, to bring the thread closer to the needle. It is standard on the LTT and Ultraflex models and optional on the AF and CT models.

Hand Start Control or only One Pedal

These can be optionally ordered to operate the machine. The hand starts control is recommended for standing operators and is placed on the machine bedplate. All standard machines come with 2 pedals (each pedal has one position) – left pedal to close the clamp feet and right pedal to start the sewing. The optional pedal can execute both steps.

Optional cutting knives, cutting steels, clamp feet, throat plates, work mats

Optional cutting knives, cutting steels, clamp feet, throat plates, work mats are available and can be ordered from our spare parts department if required.

Electronic Eyelet Buttonhole Machine ES-505

 

Button Holing Indexers 

• In the case of buttonholing indexers, the operator is only required to place the shirt front panel parallel to the adjuster clamp, which fixes the neckline of the front panel with the help of two sub-clamp catches Similarly, the bottom edge of the front panel is fixed and aligned via the same mechanism.
• After the placement is complete, the sewing head automatically stitches the buttonholes at preset positions with the help of a belt conveyor fixed in the machine which keeps on feeding the fabric and making buttonholes adjusting the distance on the front placket of the shirt. After the buttonholes have been sewn, the shirt front slips towards the back of the machine with the help of the third sub clamp catch plate and an automatic stacker comes from the back of the machine to catch the piece over it and place it on a stand
• This synchronization of the adjuster clamp, belt conveyor, and stacker is made possible with the help of the touch screen control panel, in which the parameters of stitch density, stitch length, buttonhole length and fixing distance between buttonholes are defined before commencing operations of the machine
• All the above automation work exactly in the same manner in the case of button sewing indexers, except that the buttons are fed by a button feeder which keeps delivering buttons to the sub clamp for placement of the sewing head

Benefits of installing buttonholing indexers

Buttonholing indexers not only carry advantages like automatically and accurately sewing buttonholes in lockstitch mode but also have improved cycle time for sewing a buttonhole according to a recent time study done on different types of buttonhole indexers and ordinary buttonhole making machines. Various findings came out in this study regarding sewing cycle time which has been presented in Table 1.

Table 1: Total cycle time of different buttonhole indexers along with ordinary buttonholing cycle time

On the basis of the total cycle time values from pick to dispose which emerged for various buttonholing indexers, it was found out that there has been improvement in actual sewing time that is needle downtime resulting in an increase in average production. The percentage improvements have been summed up in Table 2.