Fabrics are often printed with colour and patterns using a variety of techniques and machine types. It is the process of transferring colour, pattern, motif or decoration of one or more colours in any one of a variety of methods or techniques to fabric. It involves the surface application of colour in a predetermined pattern, design or motif by manual or mechanical directed discharge, direct or resist methods.
Fabrics are often printed with color and patterns using a variety of techniques
and machine types. Of the numerous printing techniques, the most common
is rotary screen. However, other methods, such as direct, discharge, resist,
flat screen (semicontinuous), and roller printing are often used commercially.
Pigments are used for about 75 to 85 percent of all printing operations, do not
require washing steps, and generate little waste (Snowden-Swan, 1995).
Compared to dyes, pigments are typically insoluble and have no affinity for the
fibers. Resin binders are typically used to attach pigments to substrates.
Solvents are used as vehicles for transporting the pigment and resin mixture
to the substrate. The solvents then evaporate leaving a hard opaque coating.
The major types of printing are described below.
Rotary screen printing
Rotary screen printing uses seamless cylindrical
screens made of metal foil. The machine uses a rotary screen for each
color. As the fabric is fed under uniform tension into the printer section
of the machine, its back is usually coated with an adhesive which causes
it to adhere to a conveyor printing blanket. Some machines use other
methods for gripping the fabric. The fabric passes under the rotating
screen through which the printing paste is automatically pumped from
pressure tanks. A squeegee in each rotary screen forces the paste through
the screen onto the fabric as it moves along (Corbman, 1975). The fabric
then passes to a drying oven.
In direct printing, a large cylindrical roller picks up the
fabric, and smaller rollers containing the color are brought into contact
with the cloth. The smaller rollers are etched with the design, and the
number of rollers reflects the number of colors. Each smaller roller is
supplied with color by a furnisher roller, which rotates in the color trough,
picks up color, and deposits it on the applicator roller. Doctor blades
scrape excess color off the applicator roller so that only the engraved
portions carry the color to the cloth. The cloth is backed with a rub-
berized blanket during printing, which provides a solid surface to print
against, and a layer of gray cloth is used between the cloth and the rubber
blanket to absorb excess ink.
Discharge printing is performed on piece-dyed
fabrics. The patterns are created through removal, rather than addition,
of color, hence most discharge printing is done on dark backgrounds. The
dyed fabric is printed using discharge pastes, which remove background
color from the substrate when exposed to steam. Colors may be added to
the discharge paste to create different colored discharge areas (EPA,
Resist printing encompasses several hand and low-volume
methods in which the pattern is applied by preventing color from
penetrating certain areas during piece-dyeing. Examples of resist printing
methods include batik, tie-dyeing, screen printing, and stencil printing.
Ink-jet printing is a noncontact printing method in which
droplets of colorant solution are propelled toward a substrate and directed
to a desired spot. Ink jet is an emerging technology in the textile industry
and has not yet been adopted for widespread commercial use. The dye
types most amenable to ink-jet printing of textiles are fiber reactive, vat,
sulfur, and naphthol dyes.
In heat-transfer printing, the pattern is first printed
onto a special paper substrate. The paper is then positioned against the
fabric and subjected to heat and pressure. The dyes are transferred to the
fabric via sublimation.