Major weaving patterns such as plain, twill, satin, Dobby, Jacquard, Pique, Pile, its characteristics, usages and techniques

In this page

  1. Basic Weave Patterns
  2. Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves/Figure/Decorative weave
  3. Other Special Weaves

Basic Weave Patterns

Plain Weave

Simplest weave requiring a 2 harness loom, formed by yarns at right angles whereby each warp yarn interlaces with each weft yarn Properties: least expensive to produce, reversible unless surface design, wrinkles more, firm & wears well, less absorbent, abrasion resistant, used as background for printing/embroidery

Rib Weave fabrics

Rib effect is produced by using heavy yarns in the filling direction or by more warp than filling yarns per inch. Eg Bengaline, ottoman, faille, poplin, broadcloth, taffeta

Basket Weave fabrics

Basket weave is made by treating two or more yarns as one in either the warp or weft or both the directions and interlacing them in plain weave. It is not as firm as plain weave, have more yarn slippage, shrinks easily. Eg 2X1, 2X2, 2X4, 3X2, 4X4. Oxford cloth is 2X1 & monk cloth is 4X4. Flat duck, hopsacking, panama are other examples.

Twill Weave

Each warp or weft yarn floats across two or more weft or warp yarns with a progression of interlacing by one to the right or to the left, forming a distinct diagonal line or wale. Direction of diagonal may be formed from right to left, from left to right or a combination of both. Soil resistant, softer & pliable, good wrinkle recovery, durable & wears well. The direction of the twill on the back of the cloth is opposite to the twill line on the face. 3 harness are required for twill weave.

  • Right Hand Twill - diagonals run upwards to the right
  • Left Hand Twill - diagonals run upwards to the left.
  • Balanced Twill – same number of warp pass over filling yarns. It is reversible. 2X2, 4X4
  • Unbalanced Twill – have uneven number of warp or filling yarn. It has a right or wrong.
  • Denim Broken Twill – combines right or left hand twills
  • Herringbone Twill – a series of inverted V’s are formed resembling the backbone of the
  • herringbone fish. Most commonly used in suiting fabrics.
  • Twill Angles – according to the angles of the diagonal line, Regular twill - 45° ? ,
  • Reclining twill – with smaller angles, Steep twill – with larger angles. E.g.: denim, herringbone, hound’s-tooth

Satin Weave

Each warp/ filling yarn floats over 4 filling/ warp yarns & interlaces with 5th filling/ warp yarn, with progression of interlacing by 2 to right or left (warp faced/ weft faced). Luster (long floats), firm, durable (yarns packed closely together), pliable, wrinkle resistant, yarn slippage. Satin is warp faced. Sateen is weft faced. 5 harness are required for satin weave.

Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves/Figure/Decorative weave

Dobby Weave

Small figured designs (floral or geometrical) woven repeatedly throughout the fabric, produced by a combination of two or more basic weaves, using a dobby attachment on the loom. Weaving pattern controlled by a plastic tape with punched holes that control the raising & lowering of warp yarns. It uses up to 32 harness.

Jacquard Weave

Characteristics: highly intricate large designs using coloured yarns and multi-weaves produced on loom with jacquard attachment. Incorporates all 3 basic weaves & their combination. Each warp yarn is controlled separately by punched cards that are laced together in a continuous strip. Are more expensive. Used for home furnishing, apparel, elaborate & decorative fabrics. Eg Brocade, Damask, tapestry, brocatelle, matelasse

Surface Figure /Extra Yarn Weaves

Extra warp or weft yarn introduced in fabric to produce designs at regular intervals. Between 2 motifs, extra yarn floats across back of fabric Clipped / unclipped Spot – embroidery like design are achieved through either extra warp or weft yarn. Long floats on the back when cut is called Clipped Spot & when uncut – Unclipped Spot.

Swivel - contains extra filling yarns. In these weave the extra yarn is interlaced with the background at different places to avoid pulling. These are more stronger than Spot weave.

Lappet – contains extra warp yarns.


Lightweight to heavyweight cotton fabric with a raised woven design. Lengthwise wales or cords on the face of fabric (formed by extra warp yarns) that are held in place by crosswise weft floats on the back of fabric. Extra warp yarns (stuffer yarns) do not show on face of fabric. They are not interwoven but laid under the cords to emphasize quilted effect. Made on dobby or jacquard loom. Eg waffle, huck toweling, granite, honeycomb, bedcord, pique

Double Cloth

They are made with 3, 4 or 5 sets of yarn. Two fabrics are woven together on the same loom, one above the other & laced together with an extra set of warp or weft yarns called binder yarns (5 sets of yarns). Pile fabrics are commonly prepared by this method. Produces a variety of fabrics, reversible, stable, may have different color or design on the two sides. Used for upholstery, drapery and heavy apparels.

Other Special Weaves

Crepe Weave

Crinkled or pebbly surface. Irregular, indistinct pattern utilizing both plain and satin weave using dobby attachment are made. Few crepe weave fabric are available. Other crepe fabrics are created using crepe yarn which are highly twisted (up to 65 tpi). Textured yarns, bicomponent yarns (uneven shrinkage), embossing, stamping crepe like effect are being used. In all these plain weave, synthetic fibers and thermoplastic property is used.

Leno Weave

The warp yarns are paired. With a special leno or doup attachment warp yarns are crossed/ twisted over each other in pairs around each pick, firmly holding the filling yarn in the figure – 8 loops formed. Leno fabrics are open and gauge like. Leno weave is useful in reducing yarn slippage, greater firmness & strength than plain weave. Uses-curtain, gauge, marquisette, grenadine, fruit sacks, rice net, mosquito net, mesh.

Woven Pile Fabrics

3-dimensional fabrics, utilizing 3 sets of yarns, warp & weft to form base fabric & extra set of warp or weft yarns to form pile or loop surface. Extra set of yarns forming the pile may be cut to produce an erect pile on the face of fabric – Cut Pile – velvet or left uncut to form loops on one or both sides of fabric- Uncut pile – terry.

Warp pile fabric - velvet, plushes, terry, velour.

Weft pile fabric – velveteen, corduroy

Colour & Weave Effect

Pattern produced in a fabric by using a certain weave and a certain arrangement of differently coloured yarns in both warp and filling. Hound’s tooth – 2 up, 2 down, 45° left hand twill, and group of 4 yarns of one colour are arranged in both warp & filling followed by the other colour.

Triaxial Fabric

Triaxail fabrics have 3 set of yarns, 2 warp & 1 filling. The warp yarns are placed diagonal to each other by special attachments, through which the filling yarn is interlaced. It is an ancient weave used in basket weaving. Stability against stretching in all direction even bias, strong resistance, resistance to shear forces & raveling. Lighter, longer life & less material required than biaxial fabrics. Three major weaves – basic triaxial weave, basic basket triaxial weave & biplane weave. Uses – aerospace, industrial fabrics, sail cloth, balloon, truck covers, uniforms & outerwear.