The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. Normally, 10% of the rolls received are inspected and evaluated based on a four-point system. This way, fabric related quality problems can ve avoided before it is put into production

In this page

  1. Four Point System
  2. Inspection Terms
  3. Points Per Classification

Four Point System

The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance of the defect.It is a widely recognized inspection method frequently usedin the textile industry.It is a technique issued by the American Society for Testing & Materials with reference to the designation ASTMD5 430-93.Start the frame and inspect for defects. Run the frame at20±5 yards per minute (18±5 meters per minute). Points are assigned according to the following criteria:4-POINT SYSTEM DEFECT EVALUATION

Assigned Points Size of Defects(In inches) Size of Defects(in Cms)
1 < 3" < 8 cm
2 > 3" < 6" > 8 cm < 15 cm
3 > 6" < 9" > 15 cm < 23 cm
4 > 9" > 23 cm

If a defect is observed:Faults are classified and scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4, according to their size and significance.Each defect should be counted as a separate defecteven if the nature is the same and then based on thepoints allocated to each defect, total points should be calculated.

  • No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.
  • No linear yard or meter can contain more than 4 points, regardless of the number of defects within that yard or meter.
  • A continuous running defect which exceeds 9 inches (23 cm) should be assigned 4 points. In the event there is an additional defects within the same linear yard or meter it should be considered as a separate defect and assigned defect point accordingly.
  • Any continuous defect (i.e., roll to roll shading, narrow or irregular width, creasing,uneven finish, barre’, skew, etc.) should be assigned a maximum of 4 points for every yard or meter within a shipment.
  • Each full width defect should assign 4 points.
  • Obvious, noticeable and severe defects are to be assigned 4 points for each yard or meter in which they occur, regardless of size.
Vertical Defects
(along the length)
Horizontal Defects
(along the width)
Length Points Length Points
0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1 0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1
3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 2 3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 2
6.1 to 9.0 in(15.1 to 23.0 cm) 3 6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to 23.0 cm) 3
9.1 to 36.0 in (23.1 to 92.0 cm) 4 9.1 to full width (above 23.1 cm) 4

A maximum of 4 points may be assigned to any one linear yard), regardless of the number or size of theindividual defects.For a continuous lengthwise running defect, 4 points and 1 defect will be assigned to each linear yard where the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 centimeters).Example: barre effect on the full roll in 100 linear yards:400 points should be assigned with 100 defects. So if the acceptance criteria are 40 points / 100 yd2,then this roll is acceptable.The maximum number of defect points to be counted against any one linear yard is 4 points.Overall, fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the number of defect points per 100 yd2 of fabric.

Inspection Terms

Term Description
Initial Factory Evaluation Thi is an in-depth study of vendor's production capacity, machineries and quality control capabilities before placeing an order. It ensures that the most appropriate factory is selected.
Pre-Production process This is to insect materials and components before production starts to ensure that the fuction and apearance of the components are consistent and satisfactory
During Production Inspection It is an inspection of the first batch at the early stage of production. The first batch are randomly inspected for any possible defects, identify deviation so as to ensure a uniformed batch
Final Random Inspection It is a random inspection using MIL-STD-105E, BS8001, ISO 2859, DIN 40080 or to the customers individual required standard, after the shipment has been completed, packed and ready to be shiped. Colour , appearance, workmanship,style etc will be checked against the customer's specifications.
Acceptable Quality Level(AQL) AQL is the maximum accpetable percentage od defect for purposes of sampling inspection, can be considered as a process average
Critical Defect It is a defect that judgement and experience indicate is likely to result in hazardeous or unsafe conditions for inidviduals using ,maintaining or depending upon the product.
Major Defect It is a defect, other than critical, that is likely to result in failure or to reduce materially the usuability of the unit of product for its intended purposes.
Minor Defect It is a defect that is not likely to reduce materially the unstability of the unit of product for the intended purpose.

Points Per Classification

Individual rolls exceeding the points allowed are removed from the shipment. A shipment is rejected if the point total exceeds the allowable limit.

I Dress Shirting’s - >50/1
All Tailored Suiting Fabrics
Open End Denim 12-16 oz./ yd2
All Synthetics
Filament Rayon
Poplin/Oxford/Gingham Shirting
Light weight Denim 4-8oz./yd2
Mid weight Denim 9-12oz./yd2
20 points/100 yard2
24 points/100 meter2
15 points/100 yard2
18 point/100 meter2
II Ring spun Denim 12-16oz./yd.2
Woven’s with Spandex/Elastane
Seersucker, Dobby, Jacquard
Chambray/Indigo Yarn Dyes
All Silk
Basic Knits
25 points/100 yard2
20 points/100 yard2
III All Specialty Knits 30 points/100 yard2
36 points/100 meter2
25 points/100 yard2
30 points/100 meter2
Linen Blends
Rayon Blends
40 points/100 yard2
48 points/100 meter2
32 points/100 yard2
38 points/100 meter2
V Madras
60 points/100 yard2
72 points/100 meter2
50 points/100 yard2
60 points/100 meter2