Finishing

Sueding Mass Loss, Strength Penalty & Fibre Cost

Every gram of nap is a gram that left the fabric, and strength leaves faster than weight does.

Fabric What goes in
g/m2
m
m/min
cost/kg
Abrasive Setting Removal scales inversely with grit number
P

Higher number is a finer paper and removes less

P

Grit at which the reference removal was measured

g/m2

Mass removed per pass at the reference grit and unit intensity

x

Combined wrap, tension and roller pressure, relative to reference

nos
x

Points of strength lost per point of weight. Surface fibres carry load first

Finished GSM

— g/m2

After the full sequence of passes

Removal, Strength & Cost

Removal per Pass
— g/m2
GSM After One Pass
— g/m2
Total Removal
— g/m2
Mass Loss
— %
Estimated Strength Loss
— %
Area Processed
— m2/h
Fibre Removed
— kg/h
Fibre Cost Removed
— cost/h
Fibre Cost per Metre
— cost/m

Removal is modelled as proportional to the reciprocal of grit number, which reproduces the direction and roughly the magnitude of a grit change but is not a substitute for a trial: paper backing, roller hardness, fabric construction and moisture all move the constant, and a fresh paper cuts far harder than one halfway through its life. Calibrate the reference removal on the machine that will run the order and re-check it when the paper is changed. The sequence is treated as passes of equal severity, which flatters the later ones - each pass presents an already-abraded surface with fewer proud fibres to catch, so real removal per pass falls as the sequence proceeds and the total here is an upper bound. The strength factor is a linear stand-in for a relationship that is not linear: at light removal it is close to one and rises sharply once the abrasive begins reaching the yarn body rather than the protruding fibre, so a factor calibrated at four percent loss will understate the damage at twelve. Weight loss is also not the specification: a buyer measures finished GSM after relaxation and conditioning, and shrinkage in the same finishing route can mask or magnify what the abrasive took off.

Sueding Mass Loss, Strength Penalty & Fibre Cost — free, with the formula and a worked example, at Textile School.