Fabric Inspection
Two per cent of bow is a number. Four per cent of the roll trimmed away is the same number.
— %
Bow depth as a percentage of fabric width
Bow and skew are treated as independent here; real rolls usually carry both, and the combination is worse for panel distortion than either figure suggests because the two add along one diagonal. The straightener range figures are machine capability, not a guarantee: correction is imposed by differential stretching and fabrics with high residual shrinkage recover part of it after relaxation and more after laundering, which is why AATCC 179 measures post-laundering skew rather than as-inspected. Distortion is assumed uniform along the roll, which it rarely is - it commonly varies with stenter speed changes and at roll ends - so a single measurement is a sample and should be taken at several points. The trim calculation assumes every cut is squared to the bow, which is the conservative practice; cutting on the bowed line saves the fabric and trades it for off-grain panels.
Weft Bow & Skew Against Limits, Straightener Range and Cutting Loss — free, with the formula and a worked example, at Textile School.