Roll & Value What is at stake

Roll Length m

Fabric Width cm

Fabric Weight g/m2

Fabric Price /kg

Defects on the Roll

The count behind the failed inspection score

Disposition Options What each route costs

Seconds Discount %

Mending Cost per Defect

Rework Failure Rate %

Share of value still lost after mending

Length Cut Out per Defect m

Cut-and-Rejoin Handling Cost

One-Way Freight

Customer Penalty on Return %

Cheapest Disposition

—

The lowest of the four routes

Every Route, Costed

Loss as a Share of Roll Value: — %
Sell as Seconds: —
Mend and Sell at Full Price: —
Cut Around the Faults: —
Return to Supplier: —
Roll Value if Sound: —
Length Lost Cutting Around: — m
Roll Mass: — kg

Each route is costed independently and the tool reports the cheapest; it does not consider combinations, though in practice a roll is often part-mended and part-downgraded. The cut-around option ignores what short pieces are worth to the customer - a garment maker with a marker needing 8 m continuous will not accept four 3 m pieces at any price, and where that applies the route should be excluded rather than costed. The customer penalty is entered as a percentage of roll value, which is a simplification of contract terms that are often stepped or capped. Mending cost per defect is an average; a full-width fault and a small slub differ by an order of magnitude in labour. None of the four routes includes the cost of the inspection and decision itself, which is common to all of them and therefore does not affect the comparison.

Failed Fabric Roll Disposition Cost: Downgrade, Rework, Cut Around or Return — free, with the formula and a worked example, at Textile School.