Leno & Mesh
Crossing ends do not break because the yarn is weak. They break because the doup beam is being asked to supply a longer path than it is letting off.
— cN
Standard warp tension plus the let-off shortfall
Keep the share of breaking load well under the level where fatigue sets in: the crossing end sees this peak on every pick, not once. Treat a rising figure as a let-off problem before touching yarn quality.
Leno Weave Crossing End Tension Calculator — free, with the formula and a worked example, at Textile School.