Knitting
Elastane draft, not elastane denier, decides how much spandex ends up in the fabric.
— %
By mass in the finished fabric
—% ground —% elastane
Draft is set at the elastane feed unit and drifts as the beam empties. Check it against the stated content before the fabric is labelled.
Plating Yarn & Elastane Ratio Calculator — free, with the formula and a worked example, at Textile School.