Merchandising
Ten trim lines on a 5-colour, 6-size style are not ten things to buy. They are sixty-one.
— variants
Every separate thing a purchase order must name
The variant count is the number that matters at purchase and the number nobody predicts, because it is not the trim lines and it is not the SKUs — it is the trim lines resolved against only the dimensions each one actually depends on. A line that changes with both dimensions costs a variant per cell of the grid on its own, which is why a single woven size-and-colour label can carry more part numbers than every other trim on the garment combined. The two exposure figures are the argument for kitting discipline: a size-dependent trim short by one variant does not delay a sixth of the order, it stops that size dead while everything else keeps running and piles up as work in progress against a shipment that cannot close. Grid-cell variants stop less, but there are far more of them and each is bought in the smallest quantity, so they are where shortages actually happen. The row comparison is the maintenance argument rather than the production one: flat per-SKU bills are not wrong, they are simply a copy of the same information once per SKU, and every copy is a place for the zipper supplier change to be missed.
Trim Matrix Explosion & Single-Variant Kitting Exposure — free, with the formula and a worked example, at Textile School.