ProPerformance & Technical TextilesGarment Engineering

What the Margin on a Test Specification Costs

Margin is not waste. Ten specimens are tested and every one has to pass, so what decides a component is how many standard deviations it stands clear by, not how far above the number it looks.

What a Failed Submission Costs

The whole lot turns on one specimen, so this is the number everything is weighed against

Retesting, the component change, the days lost and the share of them that ends in air freight or a discount - not the laboratory invoice

Every style and colourway that goes to the laboratory against this protocol

Shared equally across the tests, because nothing in a protocol says which test is allowed to be the weak one

The Programme

How many garments the component cost is paid on

Over the life of the specification rather than the current order, because that is how long the margin is bought for

The Test Protocol

One row per physical test the garment has to pass, with the component specified against it. Specimens tested is the number the laboratory pulls and it matters more than anything else on the row: every one of them has to pass, so ten specimens demand far more margin than three. The spread is the standard deviation of your own repeat results on that component - it is the number nobody records and the one the whole sheet turns on, so take it from the last few reports rather than guessing. The alternative is whatever else could be specified: usually cheaper, but enter a dearer and stronger one where you have it, because the sheet will recommend buying it when the failures it prevents cost more than it does. Leave the alternative blank and the row is only judged, never changed.

TestMinimum unitsSpecimens no.It Measures unitsSpread unitsIt Costs cost/garmentAlternative Measures unitsIts Spread unitsAnd Costs cost/garmentAbove the Minimum %Margin You Have sigmaMargin It Needs sigmaIt Fails a Submission %The Alternative Would %The Alternative Saves costSwitch to It 1/0Only Pays While the Weak Test Is Left 1/0Short of What It Needs 1/0Row actions
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Add line opens a form. Cells in the sheet stay directly editable.

How to read this sheet

Read the two margin columns together and ignore the percentage. A component twenty-six per cent above its requirement sounds generous and a component at eight standard deviations sounds like nothing, and it is the second number that decides whether the test passes. The percentage is a property of the units the test happens to be written in; the standard score is a property of the component. On the seeded jacket the button is the one everybody would have cut and the drawcord is the one nobody has ever looked at, and the sheet reverses both. Why the number of specimens matters as much as the component. Every specimen the laboratory pulls has to pass, so the chance the test fails is one minus the chance a specimen passes raised to the number of them. Ten buttons at one failure in a thousand fail a submission once in a hundred; three zips at the same rate fail once in three hundred and thirty. That is the whole reason a button needs more margin than a zip does at the same apparent generosity, and it is why the first question to ask about any test that keeps coming back is how many specimens it is run on. The spread is the input everybody will want to skip. Nobody records the standard deviation of a button pull-out, and a single number off a single report tells you nothing about it. Take the last six or eight reports on that component and work it out, and if the reports disagree by more than you expected then that is the finding, not a nuisance - a component whose spread is unknown cannot be specified at all, only hoped for. Where the sheet refuses to flatter you. A saving that appears only because another test is already failing is not a saving. If a submission fails one time in eight anyway, weakening a second component looks almost free, because the failure it causes is mostly a failure that was going to happen. The sheet solves the protocol twice - once as it stands and once as if the weak tests had been brought up to the margin they need - and reports the smaller, durable number as the answer. What is not modelled. A normal distribution is assumed for every test result, which is fair for strength measurements and poor for anything with a floor or a ceiling; peel strengths in particular are often skewed and the sheet will be optimistic about them. Correlation between tests is ignored - a bad fusing lot and a bad seam tape lot on the same garment are treated as independent when they may share a cause. And nothing here covers the tests a component fails outright rather than marginally, which is a sourcing problem and not a margin one.

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