Combination twill weaving

Combination Twills

In these types of weaves, two different types of continuous twills are combined together alternately. The combination may be warp way or weft way. Accordingly, warp or weft faced twills may be used suitably. The angle of twill is influenced by the method of combination. If the twills are combined warp way, then the angle of twill is less than 45° and if the twills are combined weft way the angle of twill angle is greater than 45°.

Combination twills find extensive use in the worsted industry in the production of garment fabrics, as these weaves are capable of producing compact textures. These twills are constructed by two methods :

• End and end combination
• Pick and pick a combination

In the first method the twill weaves are combined end way and in the second method, twill weaves are combined in pick way. The designs for the different types of combination twills are shown in the figure.

In the figure A and B show the basic twill designs. In figure A is shown a 1/3 twill and B is shown a 2/2 twill and C, D and E show the design, draft and peg plan respectively. The type of draft used here is the divided draft. The heald shafts are divided into two groups, the first group controls the first design (1/3 twill) and the second heald shaft controls the second design (2/2 twill).

In figure A is shown the design for combined twill constructed by pick and pick combination. Fig.A and B show the basic designs. The weave marked weft way. Figures C, D and E show the design, draft and peg plan respectively. The draft used is a straight draft and hence the peg plan is same as design.