Preparing for Layout
Place the fabric on a large cutting surface such as a cutting board, table, or cabinet counter-top.After the pattern pieces you need have been selected, smooth the folds out by hand or lightly press. If there are pattern pieces for interfacing and/or lining, press them and put them aside. Most garments are made with the lengthwise grain running vertically on the
body. Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, positioning them on the grainline until all pattern pieces are on the fabric. Always start with the large pieces first. (Figure 6)
people use items they have available such as empty glasses, paperweights, or the like. Some fabrics are easily marred and
damaged by pins. These fabrics include Ultrasuede, leather, and leather-like fabric.( Figure 7)
- Place pattern pieces, matching grain by measuring and using pins to secure along the grainline arrow. To do this correctly, position the pattern piece.
- Next, measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvage or to the folded edge. Move to the other end of the arrow and measure. The distance should be the same at both ends. Pin at each end of the arrows.
- When pattern pieces are on the fold, be sure to place them exactly on the fold. (Figure 8) If a piece is to be cut to a single thickness, be sure to flip the pattern over to cut the second one. Otherwise, you can end up with two pieces for the same side. When cutting on double fabric, the pattern pieces may be laid right or wrong side up. Some fabrics require a one-way layout.(Figure 9) This special layout is needed for napped or pile fabrics (such as corduroy, velvet, velveteen), one-way designs (such as flowers “growing” in only one direction), and some plaids. Knits and some woven fabrics exhibit a 3 color shading when the pattern direction is changed. When in doubt, it is advisable to use a one-way layout to avoid a potential problem. (Figure 9) A one-way layout will direct you to lay all pattern pieces heading the same direction.
- After all pattern pieces have been positioned grain perfect, complete the pinning process, place the pins in the fabric with their points in toward the outer edge of the pattern.