Buttons |
- All buttons must be in accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and the care instructions selected for the garment.
- Each button must be securely attached to garments with at least 16 stitches.
- Fast dye all buttons to prevent dye from running.
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Buttonholes |
- Stitch density of buttonholes must have full edge cover with no fraying.
- Cleanly cut buttonholes and trim all threads.
- Tie off and secure stitches, where using a single thread chain-stitch buttonhole. Do not use slip stitches in the sidebars.
- Position buttonholes correctly to prevent unfastening, dragging and gaping.
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Buttons and buttonhole positioning |
- Buttonholes must be the correct size for the button.
- Position buttons for horizontal buttonholes at the end closest to the edge of the garment.
- Position buttons for vertical buttonholes central to the buttonhole.
- Align buttons and buttonholes to match from the top to the bottom of the garment.
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Collars/neck opening |
- All interlinings used in collars must be in accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and the care instructions selected for the garment.
- The top collar must cover the under the collar when it is finished.
- Linking used to attach neckbands and collars must stretch to achieve the neck opening specified.
- The collar must cover the back neck seam when it is turned down.
- Collar and lapel points must be symmetrical and match.
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Cuffs and basques |
- Distribute the gathering evenly where the body fabric is gathered into cuffs and basques.
- Ribbed cuffs must have sufficient extension to accommodate the wrist and recover to original size. For example, to be reinforced with elastane.
- Stripes, checks, and borders must be the same on the right side cuff and left side cuff.
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Drawcords |
(children’s wear size 00000 to 16-year-olds)
- Drawcord ends must not extend more than 25 cm from the garment.
- Elastic and stretch cord is considered as a high-risk material when used as a drawcord.
- Mock drawcords are acceptable.
To guarantee safety is a priority, ensure all drawcord guidelines are followed.
- Neck Openings: Secure the drawcord at the center back neck to prevent movement.
- Hood openings: Secure the drawcord at the center top of the hood to prevent movement.
- Waist openings for pants, shorts, and skirts: Secure the drawcord at the center back of the waist to prevent movement.
- Pant, short and skirt hems: This is a high-risk area of the garment. Safety and garment design for the individual must be considered at all times when drawcords are used.
- Top and sleeve hems: This is a high-risk area of the garment. Safety and garment design for the individual must be considered at all times when drawcords are used.
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Facings |
Facings must not roll outwards. |
Fitted waistbands |
Waistbands must not buckle or roll outwards. |
Fly and zipper openings |
- Securely back-stitch or bar-tack the base of the fly.
- The excess fabric must not restrict slider movement.
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General appearance |
- Twisted panels or seams are unacceptable.
- Where garments have full front openings, the fronts must finish level at the hem opening.
- All gathering must be evenly distributed and even from side-to-side.
- Garments must be properly trimmed, cleaned and loose threads removed.
- Shading from panel to panel, within the same garment, is unacceptable.
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Head openings |
(neck circumference stretched)
Size 00000 |
42 cm |
Size 0000 |
44 cm |
Size000 |
46 cm |
Size 00 |
48 cm |
Size 0 |
50 cm |
Size 1 |
52 cm |
Size 2 |
54 cm |
Size 3 and above (toddlers, boys, girls, men, ladies) |
must stretch to a minimum of 56 cm. |
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Hems |
- Hems are flat and even in depth without twisting or roping.
- Blind stitched and welted hems must have the correct depth of needle penetration to minimize strikethrough and the visibility of stitches on the outer fabric.
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Interlinings |
- All interlinings must be in accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and the care instructions selected for the garment.
- The dark color fabric must have dark interlining and light color fabric must have light interlining.
- All fused interlinings must be securely attached to the base fabric.
- Conceal interlinings and ensure they do not show beyond the base fabric.
- Interlinings must not show through the fabric (strikethrough).
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Linings |
- Twisting of the lining is unacceptable.
- The size of the lining used must be consistent with the dimensions of the outer garment shell. For example, the crotch length of a pant lining must be correctly graded to ensure a comfortable fit and be compatible with the body of the pant.
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Metal press studs and buckles |
- All metal press studs and buckles must be in accordance with the Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—Revised Specification.
- Metal press studs and buckles must:
not rust not have sharp edges or burring.
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Pile fabric |
(not for pile fabrics)
- pressing marks
- presser footmarks
- feeder damage
- glazing
- crushed pile.
- The fabric pile of each panel in the garment must lie in the same direction to avoid shade defects.
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Placement prints |
All garments with placement printing, puff or plastisol prints use the following statements in the care instruction label:
- ‘Warm iron on reverse side’
- ‘Do not dry clean’
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Pockets |
- Ensure pocket flaps are securely attached.
- Completely conceal all drill holes and chalk marks used for positioning pockets and flaps.
- Do not allow puckering to occur when attaching patch pockets.
- The fabric used in pocket bags must be of relevant weight and strength. Refer to Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—Revised Specification for more information.
- Minimum openings for sideseam pockets are:
children—10 cm
adults—15 cm.
- Ends of sideseam pockets must be caught into seams or reinforced at the top and bottom.
- Pocket facings must not roll out or show the lining.
- Pocket jet welts must not gape or be stretched when finished.
- Pockets are symmetrical.
- Pockets must match left and right side
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Pressing |
The following is unacceptable when pressing garments:
- Creasing, glazing and harsh pressing.
- Pressing marks.
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Ribs |
- Reinforce any cuffs, basques or ribs with elastomeric yarn.
- The elasticity of rib must be acceptable to stretch and recovery.
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Seam construction |
- Seams must be strong enough to withstand a reasonable pull.
- Refer to Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—Revised Specification for more information.
- Threads must match the color of the base fabric.
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Seam finishes |
- All cover stitches must be even and the density properly balanced.
- When working with knitted or stretch fabrics, use a ball point needle to avoid causing needle damage.
- When working with stretch fabrics, choose a suitable stretch thread and sewing procedure to accommodate the stretch of the base fabric.
- Latch back yarn or sewing thread at the end of seams.
- Secure all plain machine starts and ends by back-stitching.
- Seams must be free of puckering and grinning.
- Cracking of seams (breaking) is unacceptable.
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Sewing threads |
- Do not use monofilament thread.
- The sewing thread must be compatible with the fabric and the intended end use of the garment in the following areas:
breaking strength
elasticity
color-fastness
shrink resistance
heat resistance.
- Use the same yarn for the base fabric in knitted garments for linking unless the tensile strength is insufficient. For example, jumpers and cardigans.
- Match all sewing threads to the body fabric unless otherwise specified. In case of prints or splicing, match the thread to the predominant color.
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Shoulder pads |
- Do not use yellowed or discolored shoulder pads.
- Correctly and evenly position shoulder pads.
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Splits |
Reinforce the top of the split to prevent tearing. |
Stitching |
(minimum number of stitches required for each class of garment)
Fabric construction or fabric type |
Garment examples |
No of stitches per 2.5 cm (minimum) |
Woven fabric; for example, crepe, voile, fugiette, twill, drill, gingham, gabardine, jacquard, Madras and flannelette |
Shirts, blouses, dresses, pants, skirts, shorts |
10–12 |
Denim |
Jeans, trousers, skirts, shorts, overalls, jackets, shirts |
8–10 |
Canvas |
Jeans, trousers, skirts, shorts, overalls, jackets, shirts |
Two rows of 8–10 |
Knitted fabric; for example, jersey, rib, interlock, terry, waffle and fleece |
T-shirts, leggings, shorts, sports and gym gear, dresses, pajamas, rompers |
14–16 |
Fabric with elastomeric |
Swimwear, sports and gym gear, leggings |
16–18 |
Tactel fabric; for example, lightweight parachute |
Track pants, tracksuits, shorts, jackets |
14–15 |
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Straps |
- Produce straps on overalls/pinafores with folded edges or turned through.
- Ends must be neatly finished and attached securely to the garment.
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- Back-stitch straps securely at the point of attachment.
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Studs, eyelets and button sewing |
- Firmly attach all studs and eyelets without damaging the surrounding fabric.
- All metal fastenings must be smooth-edged, free from burrs and sharp edges.
- Securely attach studs and eyelets through two or more layers of fabric, ensuring the fabric is not pleated or damaged.
- Studs and eyelets must be rust proof.
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Tolerances |
Measurement variations of more than + 2 cm are unacceptable |
Waistband hook and bar |
The waistband hook and bar must:
- last the life of the garment (item)
- correctly align to avoid gaping of the waistband
- not crush during pressing
- not rust, if metal.
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Zippers |
- Zippers must be rust proof.
- All zippers must have a secure locking mechanism on the slider.
- When a slide fastener is attached to a garment:
avoid stretching the opening
the hem on either side of the opening must be level
the insertion method does not restrict the slider movement.
- Slide fasteners must be in accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and the care instructions selected for the garment.
- Do not use aluminum zippers
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This is very helpful. What do you base your head opening sizes on? For example size 00000, 0000, 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3.