Various Types of Needles Used for Sewing Different Fabrics
Select the type of needle based on the textile construction (i.e knit vs woven), and the needle size is determined by the thickness of the thread and the weight of the fabric used for sewing.
There is two needle sizing system: American and European. American Needle sizes range from 8 to 19, and European sizes range from 60 to 120. Larger the number, the larger the blade of the needle.
Commonly used needles and their uses as below:
| Needle | Fabric Uses |
Sizes | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ball-point | Knits | 70/10 – 100/16 |
This needle has a medium tip that is slightly more rounded than a universal needle and passes between the fabric threads instead of piercing them. Ball-point needles ensure more even stitches on coarse and heavy knits and won’t damage spandex, interlocks, and other knits that snag or run easily. |
| Sharp/ Microtex | Finely woven fabrics | 60/8 – 90/14 |
These needles feature a narrow shaft and sharper point to pierce the threads of woven fabrics. Use for stitching smooth, finely woven fabrics, such as silk, chintz, lightweight faux suede, and microfiber fabrics. Because these needles enable perfectly straight stitching, they’re also ideal for heirloom stitching, topstitching, pintucks, and edge stitching. |
| Universal | Knits or woven | 60/8 – 120/19 |
The point is very slightly rounded for use on knits but sharp enough to pierce woven fabrics. These needles are available in the widest size range. Use when stitching Synthetic or natural woven knits. |
| Denim/ Jeans | Heavy wovens and denim | 70/10 – 110/18 |
These needles have a thick, strong shaft and a very sharp point. They are used for stitching denim, canvas, duck, and other heavy, tightly woven fabrics. They are also ideal for stitching through multiple fabric layers without breaking. |
Different Categories of Stitches
Stitches can be divided into the following categories:
- 100 Class Stitches
- 200 Class Stitches
- 300 Class Stitches
- 400 Class Stitches
- 500 Class Stitches
- 600 Class Stitches
Single Thread Chain stitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper
| Diagram | Stitch Class | Thread count | Typical Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
100 Class Stitches |
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| 101 Class | One Thread | Basting, or light Construction | |
| 103 Class | One Thread | Blindstitch for Hemming | |
| 104 Class | One Thread | Saddle Stitch | |
200 Class Stitches |
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| 202 Class | One Thread | Basting, Tacking or Repairs | |
| 205 Class | One Thread | Pick Stitch- Topstitching | |
300 Class Stitches |
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| 301 Class | Two Thread | Seaming Multiple Plies | |
| 304 Class | Two Thread | Zig-Zag Stitch;
A Stretch Lockstitch |
|
| 306 Class | Two Thread | Blind Stitch | |
| 315 Class | Two Thread | “Three Step Zig- Zag; stretch lockstitch with more Stretch | |
400 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Chain Stitches Using One or More Needle Threads and One or More Looper Threads |
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| 401 Class | Two Thread | Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate stretch | |
| 406 Class | Three Thread | “Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater) stretch Chainstitch | |
500 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s) |
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| 504 Class | Three Thread | Overedge stitch for Serging and Light Seaming | |
| 512 Class | Four Thread | Mock Safety
Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits |
|
| 514 Class | Four Thread | Overedge Stitch for Seaming
with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits |
|
| 516 Class | Five Thread | True Safety Stitch for Seaming
with Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits |
|
600 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Cover stitches |
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| 602 Class | Four Thread | Cover Stitch or Seaming Knits | |
| 605 Class | Five Thread | Cover Stitch or Butt-Seams | |
| 607 Class | Six Thread | Wide Cover Stitch or Butt- Seams | |
You have said it all what I marveled about is the blind hem stitchine industrial machine in the Collage I went Vogue Style as twenty ten graduate
school of fashion and designing by Joyce Aba Bio was thought by hand Heming and Blind stitches was one mean the hand stitching thanks a lot guys.