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Kanika Sachdeva

My experience with research in textiles has been comprehensive and varied. Apparel, although a basic part of our existence, has not received enough scholarly attention. Capitalism diverted all attention towards the billion-dollar industry called 'fashion' which has been majorly content with producing 'Tees', cheaper than a cup of coffee. The historical, physical, socio-economic, psychological aspects of textiles have long been undermined. Keeping this in view, the focus of my foremost paper, 'Divine Shringars' was on documentation of a Vaishavanite deity's elaborate attire as well as its connections with the weather conditions and prevailing socio-cultural scenarios in the time and geography, the cult was developed. My master's research was focused on the use of vegetable dyes on contemporary fabrics and explore the possibilities of incorporating them into the market structures. The focus of the conceived project was to experimentally establish the design & after-care dependability of vegetable dyes.

Comparison of Cleaning Treatments for Conservation and Restoration of Cotton, Wool and Silk Fabrics

Cleaning ensures sanitization and thus the safety of the artefact itself and others stored/displayed in its vicinity. At the same time, the process invariably alters the character of textile to a certain extent. Cleaning ensures removal/deactivation of soil and harmful organic matter from the artefact. However, a small number of surface molecules from the textile might be eroded in the process as well. This leads to weakening of the textile and might cause alteration in colour spectrum/ depth etc. Controlled cleaning techniques in conservation laboratories focus on minimizing this damage. However, not much scientific data is available on the efficacy of present cleaning techniques employed in conservation laboratories. Presently aqueous cleaning and solvent cleaning are primary modes utilised as next step to dry tools. Additionally, novel cleaning technologies like enzyme wash and ultrasonic wash provide soil specific methodology that would reduce the threat to the base fabric.

The present paper is a systematic analysis of these cleaning techniques and their impact on aged museum fabrics, i.e., cotton, wool and silk. Change in tensile strength parameters, whiteness index and yellowness index have been used as indicators to test the efficacy of different cleaning techniques on aged museum textiles. Numerical data generated by laboratory experiments clearly indicate that there is no standard cleaning treatment available for the three natural fibres. Each fibre has exhibited suitability to different cleaning treatment while balancing between restored whiteness and minimizing strength loss.