Jacquard
Hooks limit the repeat across the cloth; pattern memory limits it up the cloth. Designers hit whichever is smaller, and it is rarely the one they were told about.
— cm
Widest repeat the chosen layout allows
A negative spare-hook figure means the cloth needs more ends than the machine can control — reduce the ends per cm, narrow the cloth, or move to a larger jacquard.
Jacquard Hook Capacity & Pattern Repeat Limit Tool — free, with the formula and a worked example, at Textile School.