Basics of Weaving and Woven Fabrics
Weaving is the process of making cloth with two components, a warp, and a weft, and can be done by very simple techniques on a complicated loom.
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Weaving is the process of making cloth with two components, a warp, and a weft, and can be done by very simple techniques on a complicated loom.
Fabrics can be constructed in a variety of ways, ranging from the matting together of fibrous materials to the intricate interlacing of complex yarn systems.
In weaving, no matter what type of weaving is being done, four major operations are performed in sequence and are continuously repeated, they are Shedding, Picking, Beating Up, Taking Up and Letting Off.
Diagonal weave are basically type of twill weaves confined to bold twills running at angles greater than 45°, although often regular 45° twills are spoken of as diagonals; regular diagonals are generally formed by combining two regular 45° twills in their picks or ends.Diamond weaves are type of twill weave which forms the shape of a perfect diamond.
Skip twills are a type of broken twill effects formed by a skip drawing-in draft and a regular twill weave as a chain draft. The weaves that form a wave effects across the cloth known as pointed twills. These effects are also frequently spoken of as herring banes, or herring-bones stripes, because the radiating twill lines suggest the radiating bones of a fish’s backbone.
Fancy entwining twill effects are obtained by omitting one or more twill lines from each section and continuing the remaining twill lines of each section until they meet these of the other section. By this it means that two blank spaces are made in the weave, in which other weaves may be inserted. Curved twills are those in which the twill lines have a wavy, or curved, nature instead of being perfectly straight as in an ordinary twill weave. There are two methods of constructing these weaves,
The fancy twill is formed by placing small spots between the main lines of twill. The first end of the weave should be a continuation of the last end and the first pick should be a continuation of the last pick, so that the weave will continue perfectly when repeated in either direction.
Combination Twills Combination twills are the method of obtaining derivative weaves and one quite generally adopted is that of combining two weaves either in their ends or picks.
Derivatives Formed by Rearranging Ends or Picks- The number of what may be termed fundamental weaves is comparatively small, but the weaves that may be derived from them are innumerable. Thus, if a simple twill weave is shown out in design paper, several other weaves may be obtained from it by rearranging either the ends or the picks. Designs thus obtained are termed derivatives.
The angle of twill weave is determined by the amount of shift in the points of interlacing.A one pick one end shift twill weaves called 45-degree will.A twill weave which has more than one pick shift and one end shift is called steep twill; if the shift is more than one end and one pick it is called reclining twill.