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Regular twills are those that run in regular order; it is, therefore, simply necessary to know the interlacing of any one end or pick, say the first, of a regular twill in order to show the entire weave on design paper. The interlacings of the first end or pick of any regular twill are conveniently shown by writing numbers above and below a horizontal line; thus, for example, if the first end is up 2 picks, down 3, up 1, and down 2.
Certain weaves, based on their construction or use our group into categories, For instance, the plain weave may be considered as a standard construction.One of the largest of these classes is that of twill weaves, which are so called because of the peculiar effect they form on the surface of the fabric. Many of the simpler twills have, like the plain weave, acquired distinctive names by which they are readily recognized by experienced designers.
Twill Weave is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa. Plain weave is also known as “tabby weave” or “taffeta weave”.Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.
An important factor that influences the prominence of twill is the direction of twist in the yarn. When the direction of yarn twist is same as the twill direction, the prominence is reduced and when the direction of the yarn twist is opposite to the twill direction, the prominence of the twill is increased. In other words, a Z twill with Z twist yarn or an S twill with S twist yarn shows less prominence.
The earliest art of hand weaving along with hand spinning remains a popular craft. There are different types of weaving looms and these include handloom, frame loom, and backstrap loom. A loom is a mechanism or tool used for weaving yarn and thread into textiles. Looms vary in a wide assortment of sizes. They come in huge freestanding handlooms, tiny hand-held frames, with vast automatic mechanical tools. A loom can as well pertain to an electric line construction like that of a wiring loom.
Weaving looms can range from quite simple to very complex. Looms have been used to produce cloth for thousands of years, and while technology has improved the loom, the basic strategies and practices remain much the same. Understanding the parts of the loom can help you learn to weave or simply learn a bit more about how weaving works.
There are three major types of shedding mechanism’s namely tappet, dobby, and jacquard. Based on their technical and operational characteristics on should decide which shedding mechanism to be used
The arranging of yarn threads in long parallel lengths of equal tension, onto a beam in preparation for weaving.During the warping process cones of yarn are placed onto a rack called a creel. From this creel yarn passes through tension and spacing devices and through a leasing reed which separates the yarn threads and keeps them in the correct order before being wound onto a warping balloon.Selvedge means the edge of a fabric that is woven so that it will not ravel or fray.
The emphasis on productivity and quality has developed the weaving technology very much and as a result the working hours required to weave fabric from loom have been reduced from about 20 to 0.25 during the last 125 years, and in the last 50 years there has been a reduction of 95% inoperative hours per standard unit produced.
In the simplest weaving arrangement, alternate warp yarns are over or under the shuttle as it moves in one direction and the warp yarn positions are reversed for the return stroke of the shuttle. This weave can be made on a loom with only two harnesses. In other arrangements, several warp yarns may be moved upward or downward together, or several filling picks may take place before the warp yarns change position.