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Weaving

Broken Twills – weaving

A broken twill weave composed of vertical sections which are alternately right hand and left hand in direction. In Broken Twills, twills are constructed by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave. They are formed by reversing the pattern part way through the repeat. The Break can be achieved in different ways.

Combination twill weaving

Combination twills find extensive use in the worsted industry in the production of garment fabrics, as these weaves are capable of producing compact textures. These twills are constructed by two methods 1. End and end combination 2.Pick and pick combination. In the first method the twill weaves are combined end way and in the second method twill weaves are combined in pick way. In combination with twill weaves two different types of continuous twills are combined together alternately.

Weaving Loom Mechanisms

The basic mechanisms in any type of looms can be classified into Primary (shedding, picking & beat up), secondary and Auxiliary motions. Shedding opens the warp sheet into layers. The picking causes the shuttle carrying weft to be propelled from one end of the loom to another. The beat-up motion lays the previously laid weft to the fell of the cloth. The secondary motion comprises of take-up and let-off motions. The auxiliary motions consist of the warp stop, weft stop, and warp protector motions.

Re-Arranged Twills

These twills are obtained by arrangement of a continuous twill either warp way or weft way. There arrangement is normally done in a particular order or sequence. Rearranged twills are of two types Satin/sateen weaves and Corkscrew weaves.

Zigzag or Wavy Woven Twills

Wavy twills are also known as pointed twills. In these classes of twill weaves the twill progresses in one direction for half of the repeat and then is reversed for the next half of the repeat. The reversal of the twill may be done in a regular or irregular manner primarily considering the series of threads that predominate the face of the fabric. Thus warp way reversal is where the warp predominates over the weft and weft way reversal where the weft predominates over the warp.

Twill Weaves

Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. It can be identified by looking at the presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric. It has higher resistance to tearing than a plain weave because it has fewer yarn interlacing per area, therefore a greater degree of internal mobility. In addition, two yarns will bear the load when the fabric is torn.

Plain Weaves – weaving pattern

Plain weave is the most common and tightest of basic weave structures in which the filling threads pass over and under successive warp threads and repeat the same pattern with alternate threads in the following row, producing a chequered surface. They do not ravel easily but tend to wrinkle and have less absorbency than other weaves. The plain weave is variously known as Calico or Tabby weave. It is the simplest of all weaves having a repeat size of 2.

Drafting Plans in weaving

A draft indicates the number of heald shafts used to produce a given design and the order is which warp ends are threaded through the heald eyes of the heald shaft. The principle of drafting (i.e. putting of ends on different healed shafts) is that ends which work in different order require separate heald shafts. To keep matters simple, we can also say that the ends that work alike are put on the same heald shaft.