ProApparel Costing & Merchandising

What a Late Specification Change Costs, by the Stage It Arrives At

Cutting costs nine rupees a piece and adds a hundred and ninety-four to the cost of a change. It is the cheapest thing the floor does and it destroys nearly all the option value in the order.

The Order

What is running and where it has got to

The row number in the table below that the order had completed when the change came

What the Rework Displaces

An hour spent twice on one order is an hour not spent on another

Set this to zero when the line would genuinely have stood idle - it is the input that decides whether a change is expensive or ruinous

The Delay

What arriving late costs, separately from what reworking costs

Air freight, a late discount, or a liquidated damages clause - whichever the contract actually applies

The Order, Stage by Stage

In the order the work happens. Recovery is the single input that matters most: what everything committed to that point is worth to somebody else in the state the goods are in. Uncut cloth is worth most of its cost to another order; cut panels for one style in one size ratio are worth very little, and that is one operation apart. Mark a stage as affected when the change forces it to be done again - a measurement change invalidates the cutting and everything after it, and forces fresh cloth, so every row is affected; a change of care label affects only the last two.

StageAdds cost/pcWorth to Someone Else After This %Line Hours h/1000pcMust Be Done Again 1/0Committed by Here cost/pcDestroyed cost/pcRedone cost/pcCapacity Taken cost/pcA Change Here Costs cost/pcStep From the Stage Before cost/pcPer Rupee This Stage Costs xThe Change Arrived Here 1/0Row actions
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Add line opens a form. Cells in the sheet stay directly editable.

How to read this sheet

The number to argue about is recovery, and it is the one nobody writes down. It is not the accounting value of the work in progress; it is what a third party would pay for the goods in the state they are in, which for cut panels in one style and one size ratio is very close to nothing. Enter it honestly and the staircase appears by itself - and with it the single operation, usually cutting, that costs almost nothing to perform and takes almost all of the flexibility out of the order. That is the fact worth taking to a buyer, because it converts an argument about whether changes are expensive into an agreement about a date after which they are. The capacity charge is the second thing people leave out and it is the one that decides whether a change is expensive or ruinous. Rework does not only cost what it costs; it occupies a line that had other orders for it. Charge it at contribution when the floor is full and at nothing when it is not, and be honest about which is true - the same change on the same order is a very different number in March and in September. Read the whole column rather than the single figure. The table is a tariff, and a tariff agreed at order confirmation is worth more than any recovery negotiated afterwards, because at that point the buyer is choosing when to decide rather than whether to pay. What is not here. A change that reduces work rather than adding it - a simplified trim, a dropped operation - is outside the model, which only ever adds. Nothing is netted off for material that finds its way into another order later, which happens and is worth watching for. Partial changes across a size or colour break are not modelled; run the affected part as its own order. And the relationship cost of refusing a change, or of charging for one, is real and is not on this sheet: the arithmetic tells you what it costs, not what it is wise to invoice.

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