ProApparel Costing & Merchandising/Sourcing
The cheapest fabric per metre and the cheapest fabric per garment are usually two different suppliers. Width and shrinkage move the answer further than price does.
Prepared October 7, 2026
Width is the usable cut-to-cut width and not the roll width quoted on the mill's specification, because selvage is bought and never laid; entering roll width will make every offer look better than it is and will favour the offers with the widest selvage. An offer wider than the marker gains nothing from the surplus, because a marker does not get shorter for being laid on a wider roll, and where that surplus costs money depends entirely on the quotation basis: under a per-kilogram quotation the buyer pays for the dead width directly, since a wider metre weighs more, and the arithmetic here charges it; under a per-metre quotation it is already inside the quoted price, and the width utilisation figure is there to show whether the premium being asked for the wider goods is worth paying at all. An offer narrower than the marker is costed by re-planning the marker to the narrower width at the same efficiency, which flatters it: fewer garments across a lay generally interlock worse, so a narrow offer that wins here by a small margin should be tested with a real marker before it is booked. Shrinkage grosses the length up rather than discounting it, since fabric that relaxes has to be cut longer, and it is applied in the length direction only - width shrinkage is assumed to be already reflected in the usable width entered, which is true for a finished width and false for a greige one. Duty multiplies the delivered value including freight and insurance, which is how assessable value is normally constructed; a buyer working under a duty regime assessed on ex-mill value alone will find this conservative. The comparison is of fabric only: it carries no minimum order quantity, no payment terms and no lead time, all of which routinely decide a sourcing choice against the cheapest landed cost, and the first of them is answered by the fabric and trim booking sheet instead. A row without both a price and a usable width is not an offer and is excluded from every aggregate, so an empty line cannot win the comparison by costing nothing.
Fabric Sourcing Comparison — free while in preview, with every line item and the download, at Textile School.