ProApparel Costing & Merchandising/Cutting Room
An extra XL does not fill a short M. A lay that reads two percent over can carry a three hundred piece shortfall in the size the buyer ordered most of.
Prepared October 7, 2026
The sheet prices a cut plan; it does not produce one. Getting closer to the ratio means more markers or more lays, and both cost spreading time and fabric that this sheet does not model - so a plan it scores badly may still be the cheapest available once those are counted, and the comparison to make is between two plans rather than between a plan and perfection. Overcut recovery is one figure across all sizes, which flatters the extremes: an XXS or a 3XL clears for less than a middle size, and where the overcut is concentrated in the tails the loss shown here is optimistic. The short shipment charge is taken as a share of price because that is how most contracts express it, but a cancelled balance, a chargeback with a fixed administration fee, or an air freight bill are different shapes and only the first is proportional. Nothing here knows about substitution: some buyers accept a size swap within a ratio band and some cancel the order, and that single contractual fact moves the cost of a short more than any number on this page. Finally, cut plan means planned - actual cut quantities differ from the plan through spreading faults, end-of-roll shorts and bundle losses, so run this again on the achieved figures if the money matters.
Cut Quantity Against Size Ratio: What the Total Hides — free while in preview, with every line item and the download, at Textile School.