Sleeve is that part of the garment, which covers the arm of the body and is usually attached to armhole of bodice pattern. Sleeves support the design and functional element of a garment. They are broadly classified into three types – set-in sleeves, raglan sleeves and kimono sleeves which are further made into separate styles.
The sleeve is that part of the garment, which covers the arm of the body and is usually attached to armhole of bodice pattern. Sleeves support the design and functional element of a garment. In design, sleeves should complement the bodice of the garment and as for functional sleeves should provide ease of movement and comfort. In today’s world not only does the garment vary in designs and styles but the sleeves too have different styles and thus vary in their construction. By choosing a sleeve style that suits the figure of the wearer, the design of the fabric, design of the dress and current fashions, it can enhance the appearance of the dress.
There are different types of sleeves; some of them are plain sleeves, bell sleeves, Full sleeves, Raglan sleeve, and Kimono sleeve.
The plain sleeve has no fullness at lower edge or top edge. ELFGH is the pattern for a short plain sleeve. HG is the lower edge of the sleeve. EG and FH are side-seams. ELF is the top edge of the sleeve (sleeve cap seam line) which is attached to the armhole edge of the bodice. Plain sleeve pattern can be used to develop other types of sleeves.
Full sleeves are mostly used in Gents shirt, in which the lower edges finished with a cuff. The pattern preparation for this is similar to ¾th sleeve preparation. But the height must be extended till wrist and circumference can be changed accordingly.
Kimono sleeves are cut together with the front and back bodice. The kimono sleeve is always cut with a deeper armhole than the set in sleeve. That is in these types of sleeves there are no shoulder seam or armhole seam. The sleeve runs from the side seam of the sleeve to the side seam of a bodice. Generally, these sleeves are preferred for comfortability purpose. Because of the extra fabric between the sleeve and the bodice wrinkles under the arm are unavoidable in these sleeves. These kinds of sleeves are mainly used in tops, sportswear, kids wear etc.
Raglan sleeves have part of their sleeve attached to their bodice. Form the neckline to underarm a diagonal seam is formed. In these sleeves, too shoulder seam and armhole sleeve are not needed. In order to increase the freedom of movement, the armhole is lowered in these sleeves. Across the chest extra ease is added.
Magyar sleeve is a long sleeve having a deep armhole which is tapered towards the wrist. These are also called as batwing sleeves. This type of sleeve is cut along the bodice. Take the bodice pattern extend the shoulder line 2″ from the tip of the shoulder. According to lower arm circumference draw the line perpendicular to bodice pattern and attach the edge to bodice pattern.
Bell sleeves are narrow at shoulders are gradually widens as it reaches the wrist, especially below the elbow. These types of sleeves slim the shoulders and are usually used for small arms. Different styles can be made in these sleeves by cutting any length from the upper arm, the elbow, the lower arm or the wrist.
Set –in sleeves
Set-in sleeves are stitched to the bodice armhole. These sleeves can be cut to any length. They can be fitted or flared and their hemline can be finished in different styles. These types of sleeves must be gathered, darted, tucked and sewn into the bodice armhole seam.