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Fusing Process and its Requirement in Garment Making

Regardless of which fusible and machine are used, fusing is controlled by four processing components such as temperature, time, pressure, and cooling.

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Regardless of which fusible and machine are used, fusing is controlled by four processing components such as temperature, time, pressure, and cooling.

What is a Fusing Process?

Regardless of which fusible and machine are used, fusing is controlled by four processing components:

  • TemperatureThere is a limited range of temperatures that are effective for each type of resin. Too high a temperature causes the resin to become too viscous, which could result in the resin being forced through to the right side of the cloth
  • TimeTime is the only time element of any value during the fusing process is when the top cloth and fusible are under pressure in the heating zone of the machine.This time cycle for a particular fusible is determined by :
    • Whether the fusible has a high –or low melt resin.
    • If a high or heavy substrate is being used.
    • The nature of the top cloth being used, thick or thin, dense or open.
  • PressureWhen the resin is viscous, the pressure is applied to the top cloth and fusible assembly to ensure that :
    • Full contact is made between the top cloth and fusible.
    • Heat transfer is at the optimum level.
    • There is an even penetration of the viscous resin into the fibers of the top cloth.
  • CoolingEnforced cooling is used so that the fused assemblies can be handled immediately after fusing. Cooling can be induced by various systems. Including water-cooled plates, compressed air circulation, and vacuum.

The Requirements of Fusing

  • The laminate produced by fusing should show the aesthetic qualities required by the designer in the finished garment.
  • The strength of the bond of the laminate must be sufficient to withstand handling during subsequent operations in the garment manufacturing process as well as the flexing which takes place in wear.
  • Fusing must take place without either strike-through or strike back occurring. When the softened adhesive resin is pressed into the garment fabric, it is important that it does not go right through to the face side of that fabric, and that it does not go back to the outside of the interlining base cloth.
  • The fusing process must not cause thermal shrinkage in the outer fabric. Fusing commonly takes place at around 150oc and at this temperature many fabrics may subject to thermal shrinkage.
  • A further possible effect of the heat of the fusing process is that of dye sublimation.Fabrics may change color to a level which is unacceptable and in a way which causes a miss-match between the fused and unfused parts of the garment.
  • Since the fusing process involves pressure, there is a risk that pile fabrics may be subject to crushing during fusing.
  • Where showerproof fabrics are fused, there is a possibility that the presence of a fused interlining in the garment may wick water through the fabric in the fused areas while the unfused areas remain satisfactorily shower proof. Water resistant interlinings have been developed for these situations.