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Weaving & Fabric Construction

Fabric Contraction & Loom-state Shrinkage Tool

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See what it looks like

Two different mechanisms, two different numbers. Lumping them together is how mills miss finished width.

Widths Reed to finished
inch
inch
inch

Total Width Contraction

— %

Reed to finished cloth

Stage Breakdown

Reed to Loom-state
— %
Loom-state to Finished
— %
Total Width Lost
— inch
Reed Width for This Finished Width
— inch

Reed-to-greige contraction is weft crimp and is set by the construction. Greige-to-finished depends on the process route and must be measured on your own range.

Using this calculator

About the Fabric Contraction & Loom-state Shrinkage Tool

The formula

This is the expression the tool evaluates. Every term is named underneath, with the unit it must be supplied in.

Width lost on the loom
loomContraction = (reedWidth - greigeWidth) / reedWidth x 100

Measured against the reed, because the reed is what the weaver sets. This is the width the weft crimp takes out as the fabric leaves the fell.

Width lost in finishing
finishingShrinkage = (greigeWidth - finishedWidth) / greigeWidth x 100

Measured against the greige width, not the reed width. The two percentages have different bases, which is exactly why they cannot be added.

Total width loss
totalContraction = (reedWidth - finishedWidth) / reedWidth x 100

Always slightly less than the sum of the two stages, because the second stage acts on an already narrowed fabric.

Reed width to set for a target finished width
requiredReedWidth = finishedWidth / [ (1 - loomContraction / 100) x (1 - finishingShrinkage / 100) ]

The inverse problem, and the one that matters when a new construction is being planned rather than diagnosed.

Symbols used above
SymbolStands forUnit
reedWidthReed Widthinch
greigeWidthLoom-state (Greige) Widthinch
finishedWidthFinished Widthinch
totalContractionTotal Width Contraction%
loomContractionReed to Loom-state%
finishingShrinkageLoom-state to Finished%
widthLossTotal Width Lostinch
requiredReedWidthReed Width for This Finished Widthinch

How the result is derived

Step by step, from the values you type to the figure on screen.

  1. Three widths are compared: the reed the loom was set to, the greige fabric off the loom, and the finished fabric after the stenter.
  2. The loom stage is calculated first because it happens first and because the reed width is a setting, not a measurement.
  3. The finishing stage is calculated on the greige base, so a mill can compare it against the finishing route it used regardless of how the loom behaved.
  4. Total contraction is taken end to end rather than by adding the stages, which would overstate the loss.
  5. The required reed width reverses both stages at the same rates, so a target finished width can be turned into a loom setting directly.

What each input means

Where to read each value on the floor, the unit it must be in, and the range the tool accepts.

InputUnitAccepted rangeDefaultWhat it means
Reed Widthinch1 to 250 inch65.52
Loom-state (Greige) Widthinch1 to 250 inch63
Finished Widthinch1 to 250 inch60

What the tool returns

The headline figure and every supporting value it is built from.

OutputUnitWhat it tells you
Total Width Contraction (headline result)%Reed to finished cloth
Reed to Loom-state%
Loom-state to Finished%
Total Width Lostinch
Reed Width for This Finished Widthinch

Worked example

Given

Reed width
72 inch
Greige width
66 inch
Finished width
63 inch

Substituting

loom = (72 - 66) / 72 x 100 = 8.33 %finishing = (66 - 63) / 66 x 100 = 4.55 %total = (72 - 63) / 72 x 100 = 12.50 %8.33 + 4.55 = 12.88 %, which is not the total — the bases differ

Answer

Total contraction
12.50 %
Loom contraction
8.33 %
Finishing shrinkage
4.55 %
Width loss
9.00 inch
Required reed width
72.00 inch

The required reed width returns 72 inch, which is the check: feed the same two rates back and the calculation lands on the reed the fabric actually came from.

How to use it

  1. Work through the input groups in order — Widths. The defaults are a realistic case, so you can change one value at a time and watch what moves.
  2. There is no calculate button. Every figure recalculates as you type or drag, which is what makes this usable for a what-if sweep rather than a single answer.
  3. Read Total Width Contraction in the dark results panel — that is the headline figure, expressed in %.
  4. Check the supporting rows underneath (Reed to Loom-state, Loom-state to Finished, Total Width Lost and Reed Width for This Finished Width) before acting on the headline — they are where an implausible input usually shows itself first.
  5. Reset to defaults returns every field to the reference case, which is the quickest way to check whether a surprising result came from the tool or from an input you had changed earlier.

Where this is used

  • Reed planning — choosing the reed width and reed count that will land on the contracted finished width after both stages.
  • Width complaint diagnosis — splitting a narrow delivery between the weaving room and the finishing route instead of arguing about it.
  • Costing — a fabric that finishes 2 inch narrow costs the buyer more per garment, because consumption is driven by usable width.
  • Finishing route selection — comparing what a compactor, a stenter over-feed or a mercerising range does to width on the same greige.

Reading the result

Typical bands and what each one is telling you.

ValueWhat it indicates
Total under 6%Light, low-sett constructions with little weft crimp, or fabric finished with width held on pins.
Total 8% to 12%Normal cotton shirting and sheeting through a conventional finishing route.
Total 12% to 18%Dense twills, high weft crimp, or wet processing with little width control.
Total above 18%Check the reed plan and the weft tension before accepting it — this much loss is usually a setting, not a property.

Assumptions and limits

  • Reed-to-greige contraction is weft crimp and is set by the construction. Greige-to-finished depends on the process route and must be measured on your own range.
  • Every input is bounded to the range normal practice occupies (Reed Width 1 to 250 inch, Loom-state (Greige) Width 1 to 250 inch and Finished Width 1 to 250 inch, and so on for the rest). Those bounds are guard rails against typing errors, not a claim that the formula fails one unit outside them.
  • The calculation is deterministic: the same inputs always give the same result. It carries no allowance for machine condition, operator skill, ambient conditions or lot-to-lot material variation unless an input above explicitly represents one.
  • Nothing is sent anywhere. The maths runs in your browser, so the numbers you type never leave the page.

Standards and further reading

  • ISO 22198 / ASTM D3774 — determination of fabric width, including where on the roll to measure.
  • ISO 7211-3 — yarn crimp in fabric, which is the physical cause of the loom-stage contraction.

Questions people ask

Why can the two contraction percentages not simply be added?

They are percentages of different widths. Loom contraction is a share of the reed width, finishing shrinkage a share of the narrower greige width. Adding them overstates the total — 8.33% plus 4.55% reads 12.88%, while the true end-to-end figure is 12.50%.

Where should the greige width be measured?

On relaxed fabric, well away from the roll ends, and at several points along the piece. Fabric measured under batching tension reads wide, which then shows up as an artificially low loom contraction and an artificially high finishing shrinkage.

Can I use this for length contraction as well as width?

The arithmetic is identical — substitute the three lengths for the three widths. The physics is not: length loss on the loom is warp take-up governed by warp crimp, while length loss in finishing is dominated by compaction and relaxation shrinkage. Track them as separate numbers even though one calculator serves both.

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