Home » Calculators » Weaving & Fabric Formation » Weaving & Fabric Construction » Maximum Sett Predictor (Ashenhurst’s Rule)
Jump to a calculator 618 tools

Weaving & Fabric Construction

Maximum Sett Predictor (Ashenhurst's Rule)

Put this calculator on your own site

Paste this where you want the calculator to appear. It works on any site — WordPress, Squarespace, Webflow, Ghost or plain HTML — and needs no JavaScript of yours. It carries a link back here, which is the only thing we ask for it.

See what it looks like

Every weave has a jamming limit. Floats buy you sett; intersections spend it.

Yarn Count
Ne
Weave Repeat Threads and intersections
no.

Plain 2, 2/2 and 3/1 twill 4, 5-end satin 5

no.

Plain 2, most twills 2, satin 2

Actual Fabric For comparison
/inch

Maximum Sett

— /inch

Theoretical jammed limit for this weave and count

Geometry

Threads Touching per Inch
— /inch
Yarn Diameter
— mm
Sett as Share of Maximum
— %
Headroom to Jamming
— /inch

Ashenhurst assumes circular, incompressible yarn. Real fabrics regularly exceed the calculated maximum because beat-up flattens the yarn, so treat this as a design guide rather than a hard ceiling.

Using this calculator

About the Maximum Sett Predictor (Ashenhurst's Rule)

The formula

This is the expression the tool evaluates. Every term is named underneath, with the unit it must be supplied in.

Maximum Sett
maxSett = f( yarnNe, threadsPerRepeat, intersectionsPerRepeat, actualSett )

Each input feeds the expression evaluated in the browser; the symbol table below names every term and its unit.

Symbols used above
SymbolStands forUnit
yarnNeYarn CountNe
threadsPerRepeatThreads per Repeat (F)no.
intersectionsPerRepeatIntersections per Repeat (I)no.
actualSettActual Sett/inch
maxSettMaximum Sett/inch
touchingThreadsThreads Touching per Inch/inch
yarnDiameterYarn Diametermm
settUtilisationSett as Share of Maximum%
settHeadroomHeadroom to Jamming/inch

How the result is derived

Step by step, from the values you type to the figure on screen.

  1. The 4 inputs are read from the form on every keystroke: Yarn Count, Threads per Repeat (F), Intersections per Repeat (I) and Actual Sett.
  2. Each value is checked against the accepted range in the input table below. A value outside its range stops the calculation rather than producing a misleading figure — the results blank out and a message appears.
  3. The validated values are substituted into the expression above, which resolves Maximum Sett together with every supporting figure in one pass — no value is carried over from a previous entry.
  4. The supporting outputs — Threads Touching per Inch, Yarn Diameter, Sett as Share of Maximum and Headroom to Jamming — come from the same pass, so they always describe the same case as the headline figure.
  5. Results are rounded for display only. The full-precision value is used throughout the chain, so reading a rounded intermediate figure back into the tool by hand can shift the last digit.

What each input means

Where to read each value on the floor, the unit it must be in, and the range the tool accepts.

InputUnitAccepted rangeDefaultWhat it means
Yarn CountNe1 to 300 Ne40
Threads per Repeat (F)no.2 to 24 no.2Plain 2, 2/2 and 3/1 twill 4, 5-end satin 5
Intersections per Repeat (I)no.1 to 24 no.2Plain 2, most twills 2, satin 2
Actual Sett/inch1 to 400 /inch88

What the tool returns

The headline figure and every supporting value it is built from.

OutputUnitWhat it tells you
Maximum Sett (headline result)/inchTheoretical jammed limit for this weave and count
Threads Touching per Inch/inch
Yarn Diametermm
Sett as Share of Maximum%
Headroom to Jamming/inch

Worked example

Given

Yarn Count
40 Ne
Threads per Repeat (F)
2 no.
Intersections per Repeat (I)
2 no.
Actual Sett
88 /inch

The tool loads with this case already solved — the Maximum Sett shown above is its answer. Change one value and the difference from this baseline is the sensitivity of the result to that variable.

How to use it

  1. Work through the input groups in order — Yarn, Weave Repeat and Actual Fabric. The defaults are a realistic case, so you can change one value at a time and watch what moves.
  2. There is no calculate button. Every figure recalculates as you type or drag, which is what makes this usable for a what-if sweep rather than a single answer.
  3. Read Maximum Sett in the dark results panel — that is the headline figure, expressed in /inch.
  4. Check the supporting rows underneath (Threads Touching per Inch, Yarn Diameter, Sett as Share of Maximum and Headroom to Jamming) before acting on the headline — they are where an implausible input usually shows itself first.
  5. Reset to defaults returns every field to the reference case, which is the quickest way to check whether a surprising result came from the tool or from an input you had changed earlier.

Where this is used

  • Process planning — establishing Maximum Sett before a trial is booked, so machine time and material in Weaving & Fabric Construction are committed against a calculated figure rather than an estimate.
  • Costing and quotation — Maximum Sett is an input to the cost sheet, and quoting from a worked number rather than a remembered one is what keeps a margin intact.
  • Troubleshooting — when the floor result drifts from plan, entering the measured values (starting with Yarn Count) shows how much of the gap in Maximum Sett each variable explains.
  • Teaching and study — the accepted ranges bracket normal Weaving & Fabric Construction practice, so moving one variable at a time shows the shape of the relationship rather than a single answer.

Assumptions and limits

  • Ashenhurst assumes circular, incompressible yarn. Real fabrics regularly exceed the calculated maximum because beat-up flattens the yarn, so treat this as a design guide rather than a hard ceiling.
  • Every input is bounded to the range normal practice occupies (Yarn Count 1 to 300 Ne, Threads per Repeat (F) 2 to 24 no. and Intersections per Repeat (I) 1 to 24 no., and so on for the rest). Those bounds are guard rails against typing errors, not a claim that the formula fails one unit outside them.
  • The calculation is deterministic: the same inputs always give the same result. It carries no allowance for machine condition, operator skill, ambient conditions or lot-to-lot material variation unless an input above explicitly represents one.
  • Nothing is sent anywhere. The maths runs in your browser, so the numbers you type never leave the page.

Questions people ask

What do I need to know before using the Maximum Sett Predictor (Ashenhurst's Rule)?

Have these to hand: Yarn Count, Threads per Repeat (F), Intersections per Repeat (I) and Actual Sett. With those entered, the tool returns Maximum Sett immediately.

What exactly is Maximum Sett?

Theoretical jammed limit for this weave and count. It is reported in /inch. It is derived from Yarn Count, Threads per Repeat (F), Intersections per Repeat (I) and Actual Sett, and is the figure the rest of the Weaving & Fabric Construction calculation is built around.

Which units does this calculator expect?

Enter Yarn Count in Ne, Threads per Repeat (F) in no., Intersections per Repeat (I) in no. and Actual Sett in /inch. Mixing unit systems is the most common cause of a result that looks an order of magnitude wrong — convert before typing, not after reading.

What are the other figures under the main result?

They are the intermediate quantities the calculation passes through: Threads Touching per Inch, Yarn Diameter, Sett as Share of Maximum and Headroom to Jamming. They are shown because a headline number nobody can trace is a number nobody trusts — checking them against your own expectation is the fastest way to confirm the inputs were read as you intended.

Can I rely on this for a production decision?

Ashenhurst assumes circular, incompressible yarn. Real fabrics regularly exceed the calculated maximum because beat-up flattens the yarn, so treat this as a design guide rather than a hard ceiling. Treat the output as an engineering estimate that narrows the trial window, not as a substitute for the trial.

Scroll to Top