The procedure of Layout of Fabric
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The pattern guide sheet will probably have several layout illustrations to study. These are based on pattern size, fabric width, and type of fabric (napped, one-way design, etc.).
It is often helpful to study and “play with” various layout situations. Sometimes a different layout will enable you to better utilize your fabric. However, do not depart from the suggested layout unless you fully understand layout design and realize that many fabrics need a specific (with nap) layout due to color shading or fabric design.
After deciding on a layout view for the pattern size and fabric width, circle it so it is easy to see figure 3 then, look carefully at the layout to find:
- if the fabric is folded, is it lengthwise or crosswise or a combination of the two.(Figure 4)
- which pattern pieces are to be used.
- which layout view is for special fabrics such as nap, one-way designs, or color shading (all pattern pieces MUST be
turned in the same direction). (Figure 5) - if the fabric is cut to single or double
thickness. (Figure 5)
Special Layout
- All napped and knit fabrics require that pattern pieces be laid with their “tops” in the same direction (one-way or with nap layout).
- Some fabrics are printed with one-way designs and need a “nap” layout.
- Check large designs since they may need matching, especially at center seams.
- Plaids and stripes require matching (at the seamline, not the cutting line) in both the lengthwise and crosswise
directions, if possible. - Uneven stripes and plaids require a oneway or “with nap” layout.