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Preparing for Layout in Garment Making

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Before we lay out the fabric one needs to do the needful preparation for Fabric layout in garment manufacturing like folding the fabric correctly, pinning the pattern with the fabric, placing pattern pieces, matching grains by measuring and securing the pins to the grain lines and also that the pins should be properly placed and should be in right quantity.

Preparing for Layout

Figure6When the selected layout view has you fold the fabric, fold it with right sides together. This willFigure 7 make marking easier.
Place the fabric on a large cutting surface such as a cutting board, table, or cabinet counter-top.After the pattern pieces you need have been selected, smooth the folds out by hand or lightly press. If there are pattern pieces for interfacing and/or lining, press them and put them aside. Most garments are made with the lengthwise grain running vertically on the
body. Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, positioning them on the grainline until all pattern pieces are on the fabric. Always start with the large pieces first. (Figure 6)

Figure 8Patterns may be secured to the fabric by pinning or by weights. Actual “pattern weights” can be purchased, but some
people use items they have available such as empty glasses, paperweights, or the like. Some fabrics are easily marred and
damaged by pins. These fabrics include Ultrasuede, leather, and leather-like fabric.( Figure 7)

  • Place pattern pieces, matching grain by measuring and using pins to secure along the grainline arrow. To do this correctly, position the pattern piece.
  • Next, measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvage or to the folded edge. Move to the other end of the arrow and measure. The distance should be the same at both ends. Pin at each end of the arrows.
  • When pattern pieces are on the fold, be sure to place them exactly on the fold. (Figure 8) If a piece is to be cut to a single thickness, be sure to flip the pattern over to cut the second one. Otherwise, you can end up with two pieces for the same side. When cutting on double fabric, the pattern pieces may be laid right or wrong side up.  Some fabrics require a one-way layout.(Figure 9) This special layout is needed for napped or pile fabrics (such as corduroy, velvet, velveteen), one-way designs (such as flowers “growing” in only one direction), and some plaids. Knits and some woven fabrics exhibit a 3 color shading when the pattern direction is changed. When in doubt, it is advisable to use a one-way layout to avoid a potential problem. (Figure 9) A one-way layout will direct you to lay all pattern pieces heading the same direction.
  • After all pattern pieces have been positioned grain perfect, complete the pinning process, place the pins in the fabric with their points in toward the outer edge of the pattern.

Figure 9Pins should be perpendicular to the stitching lines and the cutting line.(Figure 10) Place onlyFigure 10 enough pins to hold the pattern in place. Putting too many pins in the pattern piece can actually cause you to cut the piece larger than is needed. However, be sure to pin at corners and along straight and curved edges.

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