Quality and Uses of Stitch Types
Measurement of stitching quality
The operation of sewing product must meet certain degrees in terms of quality, for each of these three areas: –
- Styles, dimensions for emotional appeal.
- Utility, dimensions for function.
- Durability,dimensions for the life & utility aspects.
Stitching Quality is measured with
- Stitch size
- Stitch length- Distance from one stitch juncture to the next successive stitch juncture in the sewing line.
- Stitch width- Distance between the outermost stitch juncture or distance between the outermost edges of the lateral thread placement.
- Stitch depth- Distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the stitch.
- Stitch tension
- Stitch sequence
- Elongation
- Elasticity
- Resilience
- Fabric distortion
- Yarn severance
- Abrasive strength
Stitch Formation and its Uses
Stitch Type | No. | Formation | Characteristics | Application |
---|---|---|---|---|
Single thread chain stitches | 101 | One needle thread intralooping with itself | elastic, easy to unravel | basting, buton sewing, label setting, back closing , tacking |
103 | use a curve needle to penetrate the fabric surface but stitich does not show on the face | invisible on garment surface | hemming of pants and skirts | |
Hand stitches | 200 | Done by hand with one needle thread | Flexible use | Basting on tailored jackets |
Lock Stitches | 301 | interlacing of needle thread and bobbin thread | reversible, strong, versatile, secure,neat flat but not stretchable | top stitching, common seam sewing |
304 | similar to 301 but in a zigzag pattern | similar to 301 but stretchable | attaching elastic/lace to lingerie decoration | |
Multithread chain stitches | 401 | one needle thread and one looper thread, interlooped and interlaced together | continuous running, strong, duarable, extensible, thick and can be unravelled | waist bands, inseam of jeans, side seam/sleeve seam of shirts, rainwear |
402 | a looper thread travels betwen two needle threads on the underside of the fabric and form a ridge | for stimulative effect | stimulate permanant crease on the knitted pants and cording backs of gloves | |
402 | similar to 401 but zigzag pattern | higher elasticity than 401 | attach waist band lining to men’s trousers | |
406 | similar to 402 but does not ridge up | concealed raw edges on the underside to produce a flat and comfortable seam | cover seaming, sewing belt loops,binding and attaching elastic to underwear,hemming t-shirts and sportswear | |
407 | similar to 406 but with 3 needle threads and one looper thread | high elasticity , stronger and better coverage effects | attaching elastics to briefs, panties and undergarments | |
Overedge Stitch | 501 | one needle thread interlooping itself warps and protects the edge | ealstic , allow the seam to break open, easily unravelled | break open seaming |
502 | formed by 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread | Stronger than 501 | bag seaming | |
503 | similar to 502 but the needle thread interlocks with the looper threads on the edge of the plies | better edge coverage than 501 and 502, highly elastic | thin surging on thread,blind hemming on T-shirts | |
504 | one needle and 2 looper threads interlock on the edge of the plies | higher extensible, tighter structure, prevent fraying but bulky and easily runback | popular serging and seaming of knit garments | |
514 | formed by 2 needle thread and 2 looper threads | produce a wider bright than 504, strnger and more elastic | strong seaming of knits and woven fabrics | |
Cover stitch | 602 | similar to 406 but it has a covering thread on the top surface | provide excellent top and bottom cover and flat seam | attaching knit collar on kint garments |
605 | similar to 407 but it has a covering thread on the top surface | better coverage than 602 | cut edge bining , elastic attaching | |
607 | similar to 605 but it has 4 needle threads, 1 cover and 1 looper thread | flat, stretchy and smooth trims and seams simultaneously | flat, butted seams on breifs and panties | |
Combinatin | 401.504 | combines stitch types 401 and 504 | 5 thread safety overedging, serging and seaming simultaneously | side seaming of shirtings |