Measurement of stitching quality
The operation of sewing product must meet certain degrees in terms of quality, for each of these three areas: –
- Styles, dimensions for emotional appeal.
- Utility, dimensions for function.
- Durability,dimensions for the life & utility aspects.
Stitching Quality is measured with
- Stitch size
- Stitch length- Distance from one stitch juncture to the next successive stitch juncture in the sewing line.
- Stitch width- Distance between the outermost stitch juncture or distance between the outermost edges of the lateral thread placement.
- Stitch depth- Distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the stitch.
- Stitch tension
- Stitch sequence
- Fabric distortion
- Yarn severance
- Abrasive strength
Stitch Formation and its Uses
|Single thread chain stitches||101||One needle thread intralooping with itself||elastic, easy to unravel||basting, buton sewing, label setting, back closing , tacking|
|103||use a curve needle to penetrate the fabric surface but stitich does not show on the face||invisible on garment surface||hemming of pants and skirts|
|Hand stitches||200||Done by hand with one needle thread||Flexible use||Basting on tailored jackets|
|Lock Stitches||301||interlacing of needle thread and bobbin thread||reversible, strong, versatile, secure,neat flat but not stretchable||top stitching, common seam sewing|
|304||similar to 301 but in a zigzag pattern||similar to 301 but stretchable||attaching elastic/lace to lingerie decoration|
|Multithread chain stitches||401||one needle thread and one looper thread, interlooped and interlaced together||continuous running, strong, duarable, extensible, thick and can be unravelled||waist bands, inseam of jeans, side seam/sleeve seam of shirts, rainwear|
|402||a looper thread travels betwen two needle threads on the underside of the fabric and form a ridge||for stimulative effect||stimulate permanant crease on the knitted pants and cording backs of gloves|
|402||similar to 401 but zigzag pattern||higher elasticity than 401||attach waist band lining to men’s trousers|
|406||similar to 402 but does not ridge up||concealed raw edges on the underside to produce a flat and comfortable seam||cover seaming, sewing belt loops,binding and attaching elastic to underwear,hemming t-shirts and sportswear|
|407||similar to 406 but with 3 needle threads and one looper thread||high elasticity , stronger and better coverage effects||attaching elastics to briefs, panties and undergarments|
|Overedge Stitch||501||one needle thread interlooping itself warps and protects the edge||ealstic , allow the seam to break open, easily unravelled||break open seaming|
|502||formed by 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread||Stronger than 501||bag seaming|
|503||similar to 502 but the needle thread interlocks with the looper threads on the edge of the plies||better edge coverage than 501 and 502, highly elastic||thin surging on thread,blind hemming on T-shirts|
|504||one needle and 2 looper threads interlock on the edge of the plies||higher extensible, tighter structure, prevent fraying but bulky and easily runback||popular serging and seaming of knit garments|
|514||formed by 2 needle thread and 2 looper threads||produce a wider bright than 504, strnger and more elastic||strong seaming of knits and woven fabrics|
|Cover stitch||602||similar to 406 but it has a covering thread on the top surface||provide excellent top and bottom cover and flat seam||attaching knit collar on kint garments|
|605||similar to 407 but it has a covering thread on the top surface||better coverage than 602||cut edge bining , elastic attaching|
|607||similar to 605 but it has 4 needle threads, 1 cover and 1 looper thread||flat, stretchy and smooth trims and seams simultaneously||flat, butted seams on breifs and panties|
|Combinatin||401.504||combines stitch types 401 and 504||5 thread safety overedging, serging and seaming simultaneously||side seaming of shirtings|