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Quality and Uses of Stitch Types

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Measurement of stitching quality

The operation of sewing product must meet certain degrees in terms of quality, for each of these three areas: –

  • Styles, dimensions for emotional appeal.
  • Utility, dimensions for function.
  • Durability,dimensions for the life & utility aspects.

Stitching Quality is measured with

  1. Stitch size
    • Stitch length- Distance from one stitch juncture to the next successive stitch juncture in the sewing line.
    • Stitch width- Distance between the outermost stitch juncture or distance between the outermost edges of the lateral thread placement.
    • Stitch depth- Distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the stitch.
  2. Stitch tension
  3. Stitch sequence
  4. Elongation
  5. Elasticity
  6. Resilience
  7. Fabric distortion
  8. Yarn severance
  9. Abrasive strength

Stitch Formation and its Uses

Stitch Type No. Formation Characteristics Application
Single thread chain stitches 101 One needle thread intralooping with itself elastic, easy to unravel basting, buton sewing, label setting, back closing , tacking
103 use a curve needle to penetrate the fabric surface but stitich does not show on the face invisible on garment surface hemming of pants and skirts
Hand stitches 200 Done by hand with one needle thread Flexible use Basting on tailored jackets
Lock Stitches 301 interlacing of needle thread and bobbin thread reversible, strong, versatile, secure,neat flat but not stretchable top stitching, common seam sewing
304 similar to 301 but in a zigzag pattern similar to 301 but stretchable attaching elastic/lace to lingerie decoration
Multithread chain stitches 401 one needle thread and one looper thread, interlooped and interlaced together continuous running, strong, duarable, extensible, thick and can be unravelled waist bands, inseam of jeans, side seam/sleeve seam of shirts, rainwear
402 a looper thread travels betwen two needle threads on the underside of the fabric and form a ridge for stimulative effect stimulate permanant crease on the knitted pants and cording backs of gloves
402 similar to 401 but zigzag pattern higher elasticity than 401 attach waist band lining to men’s trousers
406 similar to 402 but does not ridge up concealed raw edges on the underside to produce a flat and comfortable seam cover seaming, sewing belt loops,binding and attaching elastic to underwear,hemming t-shirts and sportswear
407 similar to 406 but with 3 needle threads and one looper thread high elasticity , stronger and better coverage effects attaching elastics to briefs, panties and undergarments
Overedge Stitch 501 one needle thread interlooping itself warps and protects the edge ealstic , allow the seam to break open, easily unravelled break open seaming
502 formed by 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread Stronger than 501 bag seaming
503 similar to 502 but the needle thread interlocks with the looper threads on the edge of the plies better edge coverage than 501 and 502, highly elastic thin surging on thread,blind hemming on T-shirts
504 one needle and 2 looper threads interlock on the edge of the plies higher extensible, tighter structure, prevent fraying but bulky and easily runback popular serging and seaming of knit garments
514 formed by 2 needle thread and 2 looper threads produce a wider bright than 504, strnger and more elastic strong seaming of knits and woven fabrics
Cover stitch 602 similar to 406 but it has a covering thread on the top surface provide excellent top and bottom cover and flat seam attaching knit collar on kint garments
605 similar to 407 but it has a covering thread on the top surface better coverage than 602 cut edge bining , elastic attaching
607 similar to 605 but it has 4 needle threads, 1 cover and 1 looper thread flat, stretchy and smooth trims and seams simultaneously flat, butted seams on breifs and panties
Combinatin 401.504 combines stitch types 401 and 504 5 thread safety overedging, serging and seaming simultaneously side seaming of shirtings
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