Traditional Linen Fabrics Weaving and Handloom Cluster of Bhagalpur, India
In-depth study into Traditional Bhagalpur Linen Fabric Weaving and Handlooms
This guide explores traditional craft clusters from Bhagalpur, India, its organization, working, peculiar methods of weaving, handloom processes, and the industry constraints, in conjunction with textile and allied products.
Problems faced by Handloom Weavers
PROBLEM
Weavers here do not work in any industrial setup. Looms are set up at their homes and work is done by the family members. Due to this they did not plan the working space. Accessing raw materials or tools from loom takes a lot of time as the work space is not divided into sections. This decreases their productivity.
SOLUTION
The working is very small and cluttered. It should be divided into separate sections. Samples, raw materials like yarns, all preparatory processes should happen at different sections. Planning should be done in a way that movement of man, machine and material is least and there is an easy flow in all the processes. Tools used for maintenance of machines should also be placed in a separate tool box.
PROBLEM
Weavers get orders from mahajans and they deliver the finished product to these mahajans. Since they do not have any fixed amount of orders every month so, working hours is not fixed. They work on the basis of the order they receive.
SOLUTION
When weavers do not have any orders, they should utilize their time in learning some skills. If they will learn embroidery or stitching, they can develop their own products other than the usual work they do. This will increase their income. Government emphasizes on various skill development programmes. Weavers should attend these skill development programmes and try new products which would eventually increase their customer base.
PROBLEM
Earlier weavers used to have orders from mahajans; but since corona virus outbreak they have not got any orders. After completing their previous orders; they had no work to do. They had to take loan for feeding their family.
SOLUTION
The designs that these weavers produce are beautiful and attractive. These designs can be sold at a very good price. But the problem is that people are not aware that there are weavers in this region that produce such beautiful designs. Institutions like NIFT that have worked with these weavers should promote them in every way possible. Also, if these weavers sell their products on online platforms, people will come to know about handloom products and their sale will increase. Government should take such initiatives of launching their work on online platforms.
PROBLEM
Weavers have no accessibility to market. So, they are compelled to produce what suppliers ask from them.
SOLUTION
Because weavers do not have any accessibility to market, they do not have any platform where they can showcase their creativity and unique products. Weaver’s fares should be organized where weavers can directly sell their products. This should be done at least 2 times a year so that weavers can sell products according to the season and customer can get variety of products.
PROBLEM
Weavers work in a very poor condition. No fans are present at the workplace and lights are also not appropriate for weaving especially at night. They even have to use torches for weaving at night. This can affect their eyesight very badly as they are into this profession since their childhood.
SOLUTION
Weavers work in a very poor condition. No fans are present at the workplace and lights are also not appropriate for weaving especially at night. They even have to use torches for weaving at night. This can affect their eyesight very badly as they are into this profession since their childhood.
PROBLEM
Lack of knowledge about fashion industry or appropriate technologies due to which they are unable to upgrade their skills on the variations of designs, appropriate weaving techniques and packaging of the final fabrics and products.
SOLUTION
Government should be provide the weavers with skill and design development courses through training programs or clusters at regular intervals through to introduce them to the latest technologies and techniques of weaving which will allow the weavers to enhance and explore more variations in designs and products made by them through weaving.
PROBLEM
Government schemes and funds which is being provided is insufficient and not much beneficial as per the livelihood of the weavers. The amount of fund they get for handlooms is provided to them in intervals and also they are provided the half or less amount than the exact amount for buying basic necessity items for weaving such as handlooms, solar panels etc.
SOLUTION
Government should increase the awareness and satisfactory amount to buy the basic necessity items should be provided to the weavers through the schemes to improve their livelihood and to enhance their income.
PROBLEM
The amount of work order and wages the weaver receives is inconsistent and not sufficient for the livelihood of him and his family. This is probably due to the drop in the demand of handloom made fabrics in the era of cheap and widespread power loom fabric.
SOLUTION
Handweavers should attain skill-building courses through training programs and should gain skills from their older generation who were master weavers and should focus on exploring variations in designs and weaving higher value fabric, and can create fabric which cannot be replicated on power looms which will result in gaining higher value in the market.
PROBLEM
People are not much familiar with his work as they don’t get enough exposure that they deserve. Also, the number of individual orders they get is very less and not sufficient.
SOLUTION
Government should provide the weavers with a marketing platform both offline and online and should provide them with inputs such as adequate tools and raw materials to respond to the existing market demands to customize their fabrics and products as per the demand of the market and customers.
PROBLEM
Weaver is only paid for weaving and not for the preparatory process. Family members of weaver such as his wife and children who are involved in the preparatory process which takes min 4-5 days don’t get paid for their work.
SOLUTION
The wages should be pre-decided as per the process of weaving in spite of only getting paid for the weaving process. The women who are involved in preparatory process should also be paid for her work. This will lead to the empowerment of women and will provide women with incentive to get involved in weaving process too. So, the men of the family can get involved in other works too which will provide them with more earning opportunities and will enhance their livelihood conditions.
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