Traditional Linen Fabrics Weaving and Handloom Cluster of Bhagalpur, India

Indian Handloom History

Handloom refers to a variety of wood frames used by skilled weavers to weave fabrics usually from natural fibers such as Cotton, Silk, Wool, Jute etc. A domestic industry where the whole family is involved in the production of textiles.

From the weaving of the yarn to the coloring, to the weaving in the loom when done by them. The fabric made from these garments is also called Handloom.

The tools required for this entire process are made from wood, sometimes bamboo and they do not require any electricity or fuel to run them. The entire process of fabric production is manual. Thus, this is the most eco-friendly way of producing clothes.

Since the Palaeolithic Era, humans started weaving. The weaving of flax products was found in Egypt which was related to 5000 BC. Two or more persons worked on one loom. There are references for looms and weavings in the Bible in many places.

Flax was the first fiber that was popular in ancient   Egypt. As days passed wool replaced it around 200 BC. During 700 AD, Asia, Europe and African countries started using horizontal and vertical looms. In Syria, Iran, and Islamic parts of east Africa, pit – treadle loom with pedals for operating heddle have first appeared. Demand of cloth was increased when faithful were required by Muslim, to get covered fully from neck to ankle, with a strong from and rising high above the ground, the looms were improved in Moorish Spain.

In medical Europe, the fabric was woven at home and sold in the market. Due to social issues, such as famine, plague and war, the craft was built in main centralised buildings from looms and other commercial areas as the craft spread widely. Plain weave was prefaced. In those times, cotton, wool, hemp, and flax were also used as major materials.

Due to industrial production, handlooms were switched to machine looms. In 1785, the first weaving factory was set up. Slowly, during 1785 Jacquard loom was invented and the weaving story grew. Indian Handloom dates back to the Indus valley civilization. Even in ancient times, Indian fabrics were exported to Rome, Egypt, and China.

In earlier times, almost every village had its weavers who made all the clothing requirements needed by the villagers like sarees, dhotis, etc. Traditionally, the entire process of cloth making was self-reliant. The cotton, silk, wool came from the farmers, foresters or shepherds, and the cotton was cleaned and transformed by weavers themselves or agricultural labour community. Small handy instruments were used in the process, including the famous spinning wheel (also known as Charkha), mostly by women. This handspun yarn was later made into cloth on the handloom by the weavers.

Indian Handloom goes back to the civilization of the Indus valley. Even in ancient times, Indian fabrics were exported to Rome, Egypt, and China. In ancient times, almost every household had its weavers who made all the necessary clothing for the local people such as saree, dhotis, etc. Some areas where cold winters were common were centers for weaving wool. But all of it was made by hand and woven.

Traditionally, the entire fabric-making process was independent. Cotton / silk / wool comes from farmers, foresters or herdsmen, cotton is processed and modified by the weavers themselves or the agricultural workers’ community. Small usable tools have been used in this process, including the famous spinning wheel (also known as the Charkha), especially for women. This woven hand was later woven into the fabric of the loom by weavers.

Handloom Sector in India

Indian handloom sector is ancient and has served the economy well in terms of employment. The handloom industry is the largest cottage industry in the country. This sector is very important from the view of size and employment potential as it provides direct and indirect employment to millions weavers and is the second largest economy activity after agriculture.

Major Challenges Faced by the Indian Handloom Sector

Welfare and Livelihood of Weavers including Women

Although lots of welfare-oriented policies are implemented by the Government, but despite this more than half of the handloom weavers are living in poverty and are illiterate. About 29.4% of all handloom workers have never attended school and12.7% are educated only up to primary level.

Competition from power loom

The another reason of concern is the phenomenal growth of the number of power looms despite all regulations.

Education, Skills, Research, and Training

The formal education system, including research institutes, has not included teaching, training, and skill development for the handlooms sector into their mainstream curricula/activities. As a result, the chance of introducing innovation in design and techniques is left to the initiative of the weaver families who usually have no resources to devote to this critical field. While rapid changes in technology and processes have taken place globally, practices in the domestic handloom sector have tended to be relatively static and consequently unable to meet the market requirements.

Development of Handloom Sector in India

The strength of this sector is its innovation and dynamism in relating itself to the changing market needs and requirements. Right from ancient times, the high quality of Indian handloom products like muslin of Chanderi, silk brocade of Varanasi, the tie and dye products of Rajasthan and Orissa, the phone of Assam, and the Patola saree of Baroda has been famous all over.

During the first half of the present century there was very little effort to develop the handloom sector

and the weavers were pitted against modern textile mills.

August 15, 1947, marked a turning point for the handloom weavers of India. The use of charkha by Mahatma Gandhi was a symbol of national regeneration and the subsequent focus on the weavers during the freedom movement was largely responsible for the breakthrough.

With a view to raising funds for the industry and organising weavers – cooperatives, Parliament passed the Khadi and other Handloom Industries Development Act in 1953.

Export Performance of Handloom Materials

The export of handloom products from India was valued at US$ 355.91 million in 2017-18. During April-October 2018, the exports stood at US$ 199.42 million.

During April-October 2018, the US was the major importer of Indian handloom products, with estimated purchases of US$ 58.03 million, followed by the UK, Italy, and Germany at US$ 10.76 million, US$ 9.95, and US$ 9.74 million, respectively.

Nearly 15 percent of cloth production in India is from the Handloom sector.

Craft Cluster of Bhagalpur

Bhagalpur is a city and municipal organization located on the southern shore of the Ganges in the Indian state of Bihar. In the Eastern region of Bihar, the city of Bhagalpuri is the largest, and also it is the third-largest city in Bihar. The Linen and Silk industry in the city has been producing a number of unique handicrafts for centuries, and Bhagalpur is referred to in India as “Handloom City”. The Silk Institute and Agricultural University are located in the city where many handloom and craft practice takes place.

The total number of weavers in Bihar is over 90,000. Bhagalpur is known as the best Linen and silk handloom producer. There are powerful traditional clusters in Bhagalpur and more than 100-year-old Linen and silk weaving industry in Bhagalpur has an estimated 30,000 handicraftsmen working on some 25,000 handlooms.

In Bhagalpur, It was a family tradition among a group of low-paying people to do the knitting work. There are 50,000 handicrafts (Approx.) found in Bhagalpur, of which 90% are workers and 35,000 Handlooms.

The various product made in Bhagalpur are as follows:

• Designer Sarees
• Ethnic Wear (Ladies Salwar and suits, Designer Dupatta, Men’s Pajama-Kurta)
• For Home Furnishing (Table Covers, Bedsheet, Cushion Cover, Curtains etc).

Infact 50% of the production is done in the Home furnishing category while Ethnic wear and Sarees comprise the other 50% (35%-EW and 15%-Sarees).

Handloom Weavers of Bhagalpur

Handloom Weavers Of Bihar Have Styled Their Offerings Based On The Resources Available Locally.

Bhagalpur is a divisional town of historical importance situated on the southern bank of the Ganga river. The Bhagalpur. Weavers’ history traces back to over 100 years. It was a family tradition among the lower-income group of people to take up the weaving job.

The income of weavers who works on a job work basis earns only an average wage per day per weaver much below the wages mentioned in the minimum wages act of per person.

Handloom Clusters of Bihar

Sigori Cotton Cluster

Sigori is a compact small village in Patna district that is the main hub of weaver groups in its locality. Presently regarding 3,000 looms chug on manufacturing a range of cotton dress materials, chiefly shirting, dhoti, gamcha, etc. the utilization of vat colors, plain weaves, and varied checks/stripe patterns using 32s to 60s cotton yarns, characterize Sigori’s loom offerings.

Biharsharif Cluster

Biharsharif city and villages like Nepura, Malah Bigha, etc. located near to Biharsharif provides shelter to several handlooms, manufacturing some fine silks and also the cotton dress materials.

Silk yarns are procured by the weavers from Gaya, Bhagalpur, etc. and then the weavers manufacture some fine tussar silk, mulberry silk and matka silk fabrics.

Some weavers also create cotton dress materials and bedsheets using broad breadth looms of 60-inch breadth.

Bhauara Cotton Cluster

Bhauara is a small compact village close to Madhubani town. Few of the offerings from Madhubani region are fine muslins, cotton dress materials, and fine dhotis. Also for manufacturing material for sand gamchas using 4s to 60s count cotton yarns, the cluster presently has about three hundred-odd looms.

Manpur Cluster

Manpur, Chakand and alternative villages of the region is the main hub of weaver families.

Manpur produces not solely fine tussar silk, however conjointly a large range of gamchas generally used at the most pilgrimages. The weaver families manufacture what they will sell to traders of Bhagalpur or to the native traders based mostly in Gaya. Some weavers have tried natural dyed tussar silk fabrics like stoles, dress materials, etc.

Katoria Cluster

Katoria, Chorbe and Dumwara are important loom destinations in Banka district of Bihar. This area enjoys a uniform geo-climatic condition appropriate for tussar cocoon rearing and also the forests of the region offer ample scope for the same. Building upon this, the region possesses a large population of women who perform ancient thigh reeling of tussar silk. Thus, Ghhichha, Katia, and alternative varieties of tussar silk yarns are made and additional woven into Tussar-Ghhichha (TG) and Mulberry-Ghhichha (MG). The rustic appearance and also coarse texture of the fabric are appreciated by fabric specialists across the world.

Nathnagar Cluster

Nathnagar is a part of the extended town of Bhagalpur and is well connected with Patna and Kolkata and thereby with the remainder part of the country. A large range of households are engaged in weaving activity within the region, some in power looms and a few in handlooms. A very large number of looms are present in this cluster although the uses are based on the order received. The looms being presently utilized in the cluster are pit looms with the single box fly shuttle technique. The utilization of jacquards isn’t being done by the weavers however the utilization of 4 to 6 pedals to make textural patterns within the fabric are in use within the cluster.

Champa Nagar Cluster

It’s a locality of the Bhagalpur town, homes concerning five hundred odd looms and these manufacture a variety of silk fabrics. The current product vary are often divided into 65 per cent silk dress material, 20-25 per cent silk home furnishings, 15-20 per cent silk saris and cotton materials.The weavers are skillful and have better understanding of potential variations in weave structures and potential blends utilising the resources to the utmost usage. They’re able to settle for new design concepts and are open to suggestions and not adamant to simply follow the conventional weaving technique.

Kharik Bazaar Cluster

Kharik is closely joined to Bhagalpur geographically also as economically. It’s settled about thirty kilometer far from Bhagalpur off NH 31. A large variety of households are engaged in weaving activity within the region, some in power looms and a few in handlooms. The breadth of the looms is up to fifty inches. Both frame as well as pit looms square measure getting used within the cluster that produces from coarse cotton lungis to fine silk dupattas. A number of the weavers conjointly manufacture tussar silk materials like Tussar-Ghichha or Mulberry-Ghichha.

Hussainabad Cluster

• Hussainabad is a part and parcel of Bhagalpur. Pit looms with the single box fly shuttle technique are being utilized in this cluster.
• The utilization of four, six, or eight pedals to make textural patterns within the fabric are makeshift dobby of 6-8 plates is used within the cluster.
• Several households are involved in the weaving activity near this region, few in power looms and few in handlooms.
• Numerous looms are present in clusters. The linen made during this cluster has unique styles, patterns identity.
• The effective breadth of the fabrics is starting from forty-five to fifty-five inches.
• The weavers of the cluster are doing heaps of style-based mostly production as per the demand using up to eight pedals for textural patterns.

Cluster Initiatives for Welfare and Growth

The Bhagalpur cluster Hussainabad cluster is engaged in numerous activities like:

• To raise the financial gain and rising the quality of living of weavers
• Encouraging and developing new products
• It also introduces new wage schemes to motivate the weavers.
• Supply raw materials at a subsidized price to the weavers.
• It promotes and advertises clusters in order to make an international reputation.

Introduction to Linen Fiber and Fabrics

Linen is that the most ancient vegetable material within the history of man. It had been vital to ancient Egyptian society, revered by the tribes of Israel, made in twelfth-century Ireland, and these days has several well-established markets throughout Western Europe.

The fiber has integrated itself among society as a luxury material likewise as a utilitarian tool, used for sailcloth, fishing nets, and ropes.

Linen’s enduring history parallels the sturdiness of the fibers themselves, the sole fiber that’s stronger wet than dry. Generally, linen yarn is plain-woven into lightweight and middle-weight material and used for shirts, trousers and different outer clothes.

It’s additionally used for a few ornamental functions – table runners and suchlike – and smaller utility things, like napkins and handkerchiefs. It’s another one amongst those ancient materials we’ve had since past times.

Linen Composition

Linen could be a sustainable material made of flax fibers. The flax plant has been cultivated in mere about each country within the world and has been accustomed create fiber for over 6,000 years.

To extract the fibers, the plants are either cut or dragged by hand from the bottom (it’s said that dragging creates finer linen).

Winnowing or ripping are the methods used for separating the seeds and the plant stocks are separated from the fibers through retting process.

After the separation of fibers, they’re then spun into yarn then finally woven into fabric.

Benefits of Linen

• It can obtain up to twenty fifth of its weight in water.
• Less seemingly to clutch the skin as a thicker fabric would.
• As it dries out it becomes cool and billows, therefore the skin is regularly being touched by a cool surface, good for hot, humid, and dry weather.
• Linen does not stretch and is immune to abrasion.
• Very sturdy and robust, one among the few fabrics that’s stronger wet than dry.
• Resistant to moths and carpet beetles.
• It resists dirt and stains and can be taken easily care of.
• It can stand up to high temperatures with only moderate initial shrinkage.

What Is Loom?

It is a type of device which is used in weaving and making tapestry, the basic purpose of the loom is to hold onto the warp threads under tension so that the interweaving with the weft threads can be done easily.

There are many types of looms such as Automatic and Manual looms which also has several sub divisions based on the design and principle of working.

Type of Looms

Handloom

In, hand looms the threads are hunged from a picket piece or branch to an appendant to the bottom.

Then weft threads are manually shoved in position or pushed through a rod that additionally becomes a shuttle. Raising and lowering every warp thread one by one is required during the start which is done by inserting a rod making a shack, the gap between warp threads are made so that threads can  traverse in total promptly without any issues.

Backstrap Loom

This loom consist 2 sticks or bars between which warps are stretched, one bar is hooked up to a set object and the other one to the weaver, sometimes by means of a strap round the back.

Then the weaver leans back and uses his/her weight to create tension in the loom. It works in such a way with the help of the weight of a weaver such that 2 main measured squared sheds is operated in a way so that the shed is rolled over to the previous set of warps and it passes through it without any hindrance.

Frame Loom

Frame looms nearly have the similar mechanism to that of the ground looms. This type of loom is made up of rods and panels which are mounted at 90 degree so that the overall construction of the loom is closer in resemblance to that of a box which makes it easier to handle and manage for the weaver. This type of loom still has a huge impact and is very popular among the weavers because of the cheap input and machinery cost and the portability it has which makes it more handy for the weavers.

Automatic Loom

It is a type of loom which is mechanized and is always operated by the help of electricity. There are different types of loom which are mainly based on conventional power loom and the other one is the modern power loom which consists.

1. Water Jet Loom
2. Water Jet Loom
3. Rapier Loom
4. Projectile Loom

Floor Loom

Big looms which rests directly onto the floor and is operated with the help of foot pedals which is known as treadles which are responsible for opening and closing the sheds (the separations which are there in the warp created temporarily) by raising and lowering the harness.  Some of the floor looms are poor in terms of portability and are upto 100 inches wide area wise.

Pit Loom

‘Pit Loom’ is a type of loom which is fitted in a pit where the artisan makes the weave with the use of pedals, In working it simulates the handloom and the only difference is its size & height. It is called a pit loom because of the pit below the loom, which is used for shedding operation. The space or gap between the two layers of the warp threads is called shed. A shed is produced by means of healds or harnesses. The warps are maintained in tension between two beams between healds are used with help of two levers, these healds are connected with two paddles situated the pit, which are used for the shedding. Wefts are inserted manually inside the shed. The warp threads are divided into two layers or parts one above the other, for the passage of the shuttle with a pick of weft.

On a horizontal ground loom, the warp would be strung between two rows of pegs. The weaver would lean over in order to work, so pit looms were developed, with the warp strung over a pit, to let the weave his or her legs positioned below and leveled with the loom.

Sourcing of Linen Yarn

• Mainly artisan source their yarn from the market in Bhagalpur for their work.
• When weaver get their order from the supplier, according to the quantity and need the linen yarn is supplied to weaver by them.
• Suppliers source their yarn from the big mills like Jayshree textiles mills in Kolkata.

Transformation of Yarn to Fabric

• Yarn which is procured from market is soaked in water to remove the impurities like gum, dust particles etc.
• Dyeing procedure takes place, where the yarns are dipped in dye of specific and required color shades.

• The yarns are then dried on the bamboo beams under the natural sunlight.

• After drying, it is being send to the supplier in the required amount lotwise.
• The supplier then take the yarns to the weavers where the decision of design, cost etc. takes place.
• Bobbin is filled one by one, majority by the female member present in the family.

• Warping procedure takes place.

• Reeds are filled.

• On the handloom yarns are placed according to the design required.
• Weaving is done.

• Sent to Mahajan For Midway checking procedure (After 25m is done).
• Defects which occur during the weaving process is being mended.
• Washing and calendaring takes place, where heat setting of the fabric is done.

Weaving

 After the preparatory process of dyeing of the yarn the artisan hands over the yarn to their family. Firstly, one of the members of the family (generally women) winds the thread onto the bobbin with the help of charkha so that it can be easily handled.

Then each warp thread is passed through reeds and rolled in warp wheel. Again, the thread is passed through the heddles and then through reeds which divides the warp yarn into two parts through which weft yarn passes. The warp beam is then taken to load onto the loom. It takes around 4-5 days to load the warp beam on a handloom.

Looms are equipped with dobbies for making motifs and designs. The designing is done and set in the dobby.

The bobbins are placed in a shuttle which carries the weft threads back and forth across the loom. The weavers use pedals to control the frames of the loom. Together the frames separate the warp threads. The weft yarn is passed through the space created between the warp threads. After every pass the weaver alternates the frames, interlacing the weft between the warp and then brings the weft threads close together with the help of a comb.

First a sample of 25-30 cm is prepared and then sent to the respective supplier/Mahajan for approval. Once the approval of the sample from the supplier is done the process of weaving is continued further.

Product Range

Linen offers an extensive range of luxury furnishing fabrics and upholstery fabric. From printed patterns, silks & satins, weaves vel- vets to textured effects the entire collection is beautifully weaved with style, sophistication and hard work of weavers. Weavers can also develop customised fabric as per the require- ment of the client.

Sarees

There are mainly three types of linen fabric production:

• Linen fabric thaan/rolls (25m-30m)
• Linen Sarees
• Linen Dupattas/Shawls/stoles

These fabric can be turned into a variety of products mentioned below:

• Women’s Wear Sarees
• Printed Linen Saree Silk & Linen Saree
• Pure Linen Bhagalpuri Saree (100% pure)

These sarees come in warp or weft based- linen is warp-based saree. For the warp and weft both, linen yarn is used and is called linen by linen. Other option is linen include: prime yarn, 30 to 40% khadi, cotton or silk. So When linen is combined with cotton, khadi, and silk sarees become softer.

Kurtas & Kurtis

Fabrics

• Linen & Cotton Fabric Mix Handloom Linen Fabric
• Accessories Stoles & Scarves Linen Dupatta
• And other allied products

Men’s Wear

• Top and bottom wear
• Linen shirts
• Thick linen Trousers

Fabrics

• Linen Shirting fabric Linen suiting fabric Linen trouser fabric

Home Furnishing

• Cushion covers Sofa covers Curtains
• Bhagalpuri Chadars Coasters
• Table mats
• Linen shirts
• Thick linen Trousers
• Cushion covers Sofa covers Curtains Bhagalpuri Chadars Coasters

Tablemats

Curtains and other home furnishings give an excellent look to any interior and also add up to the beauty! A wide range of curtains are available in plethora of colors & elegant finishes that are engineered to perfection and style.

Post-Weaving Process

• When a bulk of 25-30 m is completed then the weaver hands it over to the supplier.
• After the supplier receives the fabric from the weavers inspection of the fabric is done.
• If any defect is found it’s mending is done and the extra thread is trimmed from the fabric.
• Then the finished fabric is washed and dried. At the end calendaring process is done in which the fabric is passed between two calendar rollers at high temperatures and pressures which removes the stiffness and makes the fabric quite soft and increases the luster.

Practiced Weaves and Designs

Handloom Artisan’s Profile

The artisan weaver named Gulam Quadir, is one of the oldest member in his family. At 41 years of age, he is a traditional and experienced weaver who has 30 years of weaving experience. Together with his wife and children he lives in Naya Tola, Hussainabad, Bhagalpur.

 

Gulam Quadir started the weaving work from his childhood only and now specializes in weaves such as linen, cotton, blends of linen and fancy yarn, blends of linen and cotton and make products such as home furnishing products, mufflers, sarees, shirts etc.

He weaves 3-4m of plain weave linen per day. His annual income from weaving is around 55-60k till 2019 which has now reduced to 10-15k due to scarcity of work due to pandemic which is not sufficient for his livelihood of and his family.

Till 1989 their work and buisuness was going great but after 1989 there was sudden drop in their work orders. The number of work order and wages the weaver receives now is inconsistent and not sufficient. This is probably due to the drop in the demand of handloom made fabrics in the era of cheap and widespread power loom fabric.

However the artisan Gulam Quadir applied and wrote an application to WSC(weavers service centre) which has been accepted and approved and he is about to began his jackquard training which will help him in developing more skills and techniques of weaving.

Present Scenario

The Linen loom business in Asian nation encompasses a long tradition of wonderful acquisition, representing and conserving the colourful Indian culture. Indian artists are currently distinguished worldwide for their hand spinning, weaving and printing class. The operations of this business are primarily house primarily based, whereby varied members of the family place in joint efforts for production.

These activities are unfold across thousands of cities and villages of the country and involve RtransSfer of skills from one generation to consequent. the arena involves sizable amount of artisans from  rural and semi-urban areas, most of that are ladies and folks from economically under privileged teams. A number of strengths of this business are convenience of low cost and over abundant labour, use of native resources, low capital investment, distinctive acquisition in producing of the product and increasing appreciation by international customers. It’s necessary to notice that despite such distinctive characteristics, the business includes a deficient proportion of Indian exports and international market, so business for efforts to market and channelize the offerings of the business to faucet its hidden potential.

The strength of the loom sector lies in its singularity, flexibility of production, openness to innova- tions, ability to buyers’ demand and wealth of its tradition. However, remains facing varied issues and challenges that are stifling its growth and impacting its property. Tho’ the govt. has taken measures towards the event of the arena and improvement of its productivity and promoting, weavers are still facing support crisis.

Therefore, to be ready to implement corrective measures to uplift the arena, it’s necessary to initial determine the issues also because the weaknesses of the loom business. There are a couple of key areas that need attention if the expansion and development of this sector is to be reinforced. we tend to gift below a number of the problems and challenges that are moon-faced by the loom sector in Asian nation.

Shortage of inputs and problem of working capital

The high prices of inputs like yarn, cotton, silk, art silk, chemicals & dyes and zari and irregular offer of assets affects the operations and continuity of the business thereby resulting in a decline within the production of loom product. the foremost raw materials have low yield that creates hurdles in production designing and aggravates the matter thanks to lack of economies of scale.

Lack of credit

Shortage of credit facilities and pricey price of getting credit may be a key concern for loom sec- tor. Also, lack of economic skill will increase credit connected challenges among the weavers. As per the Third loom Census, 44.6% of weavers relied on master weaver for the supply of credit and nearly thirteen.4% relied on the cash lenders. It absolutely was conjointly specified that sole- ly fourteen.8% of loom weavers had access to institutionalized sources of credit. Also, majority of the weavers notice it tough to satisfy their credit desires on affordable terms as they’re unable to satisfactorily offer adequate security to banks and alternative monetary establishments. This limits their ability to upgrade their looms or purchase new looms.

Marketing Issues

Some of the issues relating to the low volume of sale of finished loom product stem from the very fact that weavers lack awareness and knowledge on client preferences, customers square measure unable to differentiate between the product made from the ability loom sector versus those made from the handlooms, promotional campaigns aren’t sustained over time to push the product, there square measure sometimes inconsistency in quality of the merchandise further- more as inefficiencies within the offer chain.

Greater competition from power looms and mill sector

The modernization of the textile business with increased usage of subtle technology in produc- tion of material has crystal rectifier to serious threat to the standard loom business. Varied prod- uct ranges, low prices, prime quality, superior and standardized product offered by trendy textile business square measure in larger demand by the shoppers relative to the pricey loom article . clothing.

Technological backwardness

The looms deployed within the production of loom product square measure recent, tired and unproductive that need additional labour to control. This will increase the worth of the ultimate product and renders the business non competitive relative to its loom counterparts.

Working Condition

Health and Safety

Since they work on pit looms so they work have to constantly bend while working. This in long turn can cause serious back injuries. Also workers are not provided with any regular health checkups. There is no evacuation plan in case there is a fire hazard. Also the work place is cluttered which will make it difficult for the family members to get out of the work place in case of any fire emergency.

Arrangement of Workplace

There is a single room where all the processes of weaving are carried out. There is no separate place for keeping raw materials, samples or finished products. Everything is kept in a very unorganized way. Tools for repairing are also not kept separately.

Infrastructure

These weavers have been into this profession for generations. They do not have any separate workplace. They have looms in their homes and entire family is involved in this business. When they buy a plot; they divide it into two sections: one for construction of house and another for installation of looms. During our interaction with weaver Gulam Quadir, he said “we first separate our work space whenever we buy a plot. We keep appropriate space for setting up looms then construct our house. It’s ok if our houses are small but we don’t compromise with the space that is required for installation of loom.”

Working hours and Wages

Working hours and wages of weavers are not fixed. They are paid per meter. When they have good amount of work, they work for very long hours even at night. Also when there is ample work they get decent money but when there is lack of work they do not get any money. Work and wage in this sector is very uncertain.

Ventilation and Lighting

Working conditions under which these weavers work is very poor. They don’t even have fans installed in their work place. There is only one bulb in their room which is not sufficient for a process like weaving. At times when they have a lot of order and they have to work at night; they have to use torches for additional light.

Costing

The pricing of weaved material varies from one weaver to other because of the designs and complexity and the process of deciding the price is done by the suppliers and the weavers.

Dyeing

The cost for dyeing the linen yarns depend upon the shades of colour used for dyeing. The price for darker colour shade is higher as compared to lighter shade.  Average rate varies from ₹150 – ₹200/Kg.

Weaving

Weavers set the price of weaving for different orders received. The price depends on the design complexity given to them. Easy design patterns are charged less as compared to difficult ones.

Plain weave costs around ₹40 and complex designs are charged from ₹50 – ₹100.

Packaging

After finishing is done on fabric, it is sent for packaging. Packaging is done by weavers themselves. Plastic rods of different diameters are used on which fabric is rolled. After that this roll is packed under a plastic bag and sent to the mahajans. If the fabric is to be exported out of India; then it is packed according to the buyers instructions.

What is (Strength) (Weakness) (Opportunities) & (Threats) Analysis?

Swot analysis in an analytical and strategic approach wherein the responsible decode the various aspects of a business in order to understand the vital fundamentals which will ultimately help the business to grow by analyzing as the name suggests the strength, weakness, the opportunities which are there for the organization and the threats it can face so that it can ultimately help a business to grow steadily in any eventualities.

Strength

One of the biggest strength of the setups producing the Bhagalpuri Linen is that their style, variety of product and most of the other aspects which are related to their products are completely unique in nature. This means that whatever has been produced by them is completely exclusive and can only be procured from none other than the producer themselves. Nowadays we also learned that faculties of our NIFT, Patna are also helping the producers to keep up with the ever changing demand by telling the basics of designing and in that way these producers are improvising over it every day to create new design all by themselves which gives them a huge upper hand in terms of strengths.

1. Large skilled, semi-skilled work force in the
2. Hourly labor cost less than most of the other competitors and have low product
3. Little or no demand for
4. Diversified products at different clusters of
5. Important products are covered under IPR protection by
6. Continuous government care for the weavers and very large co-operative base in the
7. Cluster Development Program and various developmental schemes in PPP
8. Resistant to industrial set back
9. A widely recognized market and an attractive customer
10. Cost advantages
11. Product innovation skills
12. Indian Handloom Industry is an Independent & Self-Reliant
13. Abundant Raw Material availability that helps industry to control costs and reduces the lead- time across the operation.
14. Availability of Low Cost and Skilled Manpower provides competitive advantage to
15. India has great advantage in Spinning Sector and has a presence in all process of operation and value chain.
16. India is one of the largest exporters of Yarn in international
17. Industry has large and diversified segments that provide wide variety of
18. Exclusive products with traditional technology not replicable in power

Weakness

The weakness with these manufactures is generally related to the demand for these types of product. As we move forward with time the newer generations are forgetting their traditions, culture etc and this tradition is the basic fundamental on which these producers can thrive on. Also during this pandemic they saw a huge drop in demand which further made them produce on smaller scale with much lower profit margins to work with, another problem as per the discussion we came to know that they always had this complaint of the financial assistant which has been provided to them are very minimal in nature and the lack of initiatives such as properly advertising their craft to the public and other different steps is not being taken care of by those responsible.

1. Inadequate and qualitative raw material provision to weavers through out year
2. Lack of market intelligence, managerial talent and TQM system
3. No or poor standardization for measurement of quality, cost and overheads
4. Slow process on product diversification and technical innovations, mechanization of laborious
5. Use of hazardous banned chemicals in some pockets
6. Rigidity of weavers to take a change over on existing product
7. Large number of non-viable organizations in handloom sector
8. No control on overheads, pricing, heavy inventory, damaged stocks etc
9. No BEP analysis and maintaining MIS
10. No code of ethics for the mass engaged in the industry and mode of accountability
11. Government only takes care for 30% of weavers under co-operative fold
12. Interference by political systems
13. No clean strategies direction
14. Obsolete facilities
15. Higher overall unit cost relative to key completers
16. Subpar profitability, no cost control measures
17. Falling behind rivals in putting e commerce capabilities and strategies in
18. Weak brand image or
19. Weaker dealer network than key rivals
20. Lack of adequate global distribution capability
21. Short on Financial resources to fund promising strategic
22. Lower Productivity in various

Opportunities

The weavers of Bhagalpuri Linen have many opportunities on which they can cling on and make the most out of it. The most favourable thing which presents a huge opportunity to these weavers is the government backing and the schemes from which they can reap the benefits from. Similarly as discussed above that there products are completely unique in nature and is produced locally then the demand which will arise because of proper marketing and advertising, then that demand is going to be fulfilled by these weavers only in the form of more order hence this will lead to more work, more job opportunities created locally and ultimately allowing them to deal with flexible profit margins from the buyers while giving them the chance to expand their units.

1. Good domestic market and scope for export market
2. Government policies in favor of the sector
3. Institutional finance through NABARD
4. Implementation of Cluster Development Program in most of the handloom clusters across the country covering master weavers and weavers beyond co-operative fold
5. Service through WSC, IIHT, NHDC, Textile Committee and HEPC etc
6. Opening of Banks for Raw materials, Designs, Apparel park etc
7. Implementation of welfare schemes like, Work-shed, MGBBY, HIS etc
8. Formulation of New Textiles policies and Handloom reservation Act
9. Attention of government on non-tariff barriers like, eco-friendly regulations, defining work ethics, labor ethics including minimum wages act
10. Serving additional customer
11. Expanding its product live to meet the broader
12. Range of customer
13. Using the internet and e commerce technologies to dramatically cut
14. Opening to take market share away from
15. Acquisition of rival firms with attractive technological
16. Product development and Diversification to provide global
17. Increased not reusable Income and Purchasing Power of Indian Customer open New Market
18. Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the clothes, handiwork and other segments of the
19. Greater Investment and FDI opportunities are

Threats

Meanwhile there are huge strengths and opportunities for these weavers but at the same time these weavers are also agitated by the fact that they do not receive their payment on time on most of the occasions or they only receive a partial payment on some instances, due to this the weavers are always held in contempt whether to continue this business where there are so much of problems without any backing from anyone, in a lot of instances the most of the profits are taken by the Mahajans or the suppliers whereas the laborious and the most of part of the hard work is done by them and they are forced to operate on such bleak profit margins, because of this whole situation they don’t want their future generations to carry on in this line of work which puts this whole culture/ tradition in an imminent risk and this something which needs to be taken care of.

1. Migration of weavers to other trades
2. Imitation of products, design by composite and power loom industry
3. Import of goods at cheaper price after globalization
4. Resistance in adopting eco-friendly process
5. 99% of rural producers are not aware of impact on LPG (Liberalization, Privatilisation and Globalization)
6. Decrease in per capita cloth consumption
7. Income level of weavers is going lower day by day
8. Closure of government rebate schemes
9. Poor level of cohesion among rural institutions
10. Competition from other developing countries, especially
11. Continuous Quality Improvement is need of the hour as there are different demand patterns
12. all over the
13. Elimination of Quota system will lead to fluctuations in Export
14. Threat for Traditional Market for Power loom and Handloom Products and forcing them for product
15. Geographical
16. International labor and Environmental
17. To balance the demand and

Pestle Analysis of Textile Industry

The textile industry grew out of the industrial revolution in the 18th Century as mass production of clothing became a major industry. Until the economic liberalization of the Indian economy, the India Textile Industry was primarily an unorganized industry. The opening up of the Indian economy post-1990s led to a stunning growth of this industry. But now Industry has been influenced by many factors such as political factors, economical factors, social factors, technical factors, legal factors, and environmental factors. Here we will describe all those factors that affected to Textile Industry.

The Working Group on Textiles & Jute Industry for the 11th Five Year Plan (2007-2012) has studied the major problems being faced by the textile industry.

Political Factors

The management of business enterprises and their policies are considerably influenced by the existing political systems. And India is a democratic country, there are probably problem of stability in politics.

Political and Government Diversity

The reservation of production for very small companies that was imposed with an intention to help out small scale companies across the country, led substantial fragmentation that distorted the competitiveness of industry. However, most of the sectors now have been de-reserved, and major entrepreneurs and corporate are putting-in huge amount of money in establishing big facilities or in expansion of their existing plants.

Secondly, the foreign investment was kept out of textile and apparel production. Now, the Government has gradually eliminated these restrictions, by bringing down import duties on capital equipment, offering foreign investors to set up manufacturing facilities in India. In recent years, India has provided a global manufacturing platform to other multi-national companies that manufactures other than textile products; it can certainly provide a base for textiles industry.

And some motivating step taken by the government, other problems still sustains like various taxes and excise imbalances due to diversification into 35 states and Union Territories. However, an outline of VAT is being implemented in place of all other tax diversifications, which will clear these imbalances once it is imposed fully.

But now the Indian government has introducing measures such as the national technology up gradation fund and removing the differential taxation scheme which discriminated against large units.

The Government has announced the release of a subsidy of INR 2,687 Billion for the textile industry.

Removal of trade related tariffs and non-tariff barriers.3.The government has extended 10% capital subsidy and 5% interest subsidy on installation of machineries and for processing machinery.

A 41-member Working Group has also been announced to be set up with a National Fiber Policy, to ensure self- sufficiency in fiber consumption and export requirements in India.

Economical Factors

Economical factors such as per capita income, national income, resources mobilization, exploitation of natural resources, infrastructure development, capital formation, employment generation, and industrial development influence textile industry.

Textile industry provides one of the most fundamental necessities of the people with huge value-addition at every stage of processing.

Today textile sector accounts for nearly 14% of the total industrial output. Indian fabric is in demand with its ethnic, earthly colored and many textures. The textile sector accounts about 30% in the total export. This conveys that it holds potential if one is ready to innovate.

The textile industry is the largest industry in terms of employment economy, expected to generate 12 million new jobs by 2010. It generates massive potential for employment in the sectors from agricultural to industrial. Employment opportunities are created when cotton is cultivated.

Indian textile industry contributes about 14% to industrial production, 4% to the country’s gross domestic product (GDP) and 16.63% to export earnings.

Nearly 40% of the textiles produced in the country is exported and the textile sector is the biggest employment generator after agriculture

The sector is expected to generate 12 million new jobs4.Indian textiles and apparel exports, which is worth US$ 41.4 billion in 2014-15, a growth of 5.4 percent.

Social Factors

Managers and policy makers can not disregard social variables like education, knowledge, rural community norms and beliefs which are predominant in India, especially in the rural society while cultural differences are unthinkable for any international manager or even an urban Indian manager. Textile industry of India based on cotton and cotton as the agriculture product, which found in rural areas so the social responsibility of the textile industry. Social stratification plays a vital role in rural societies.

The market for textile is growing as a whole as India’s population grows at about 1-2% annually.

Along with that, Raymond’s market segment of upper middle class and the high class segment is also growing due to higher disposable incomes.

The textile industry is mainly a labor intensive industry as it provides livelihood to the huge population, mainly consists of unskilled workers, and thus plays a pivotal role in the development of any economy.

Technological Factors

Technology is considered to be one of the most important factors of textile industry. That is why the government, in its industrial policy resolutions, industrial licensing policies, MRTP and FERA regulation, and in liberalization policies, assigned great importance to sophisticated technology and technology transfer.

The Working Group on Textiles & Jute Industry for the 11th Five Year Plan (2007-2012) has studied the major problems being faced by the textile industry which include:

1. Structural weaknesses in weaving and processing,
2. Fragmented and technologically backward textile processing sector,
3. Fragmented garment industry,
4. Inadequate capacity of the domestic textile machinery manufacturing sector,
5. Inadequate training facilities in textile

The Government has undertaken a series of progressive measures like introduction of Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC), Technology Upgradaiton (sp) fund Scheme (TUFS), Scheme for Integrated Textile Park (SITP), reduction in customs duty on import of state-of-the-art machinery, Debt Restructuring Scheme, setting up of Apparel Training and Design Centers (ATDCs), 100% Foreign Direct Investment in the textile sector under automatic route, setting up of National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) etc, for upgrading and strengthening the textile sector in India.

At present, the textile industry is undergoing a substantial re-orientation towards other then

clothing segments of textile sector, which is commonly called as technical textiles. It is moving vertically with an average growing rate of nearly two times of textiles for clothing applications and now account for more than half of the total textile output. The processes in making technical textiles require costly machinery and skilled workers.

The textile industry is more labour intensive.

Legal Factors

Legal environment plays very vital role in textile industry. Laws relating to industrial licensing, factory administration, industrial disputes, monopoly control, and foreign exchange regulation are examples of legal business environment in India.

Textile industry has suffered by legal rules as unfavorable labor laws. Government has created strong labor laws. In India, labor laws are still found to be relatively unfavorable to the trades, with companies having not more than ideal model to follow a ‘hire and fire’ policy

And other factors are lack of Trade Membership, which restrict to tap other potential market. And also lacking to generate Economies of Scale is another legal factor to this industry. Government has charged higher Indirect taxes, power and Interest rates. The uneven supply base also leads barriers in attaining integration between the links in supply chain. This issue creates uncontrollable, unreliable and inconsistent performance. The liberalization being carried in the 1990’s also ushered in a new era for India’s textile industry. It led to the relaxation of many of the constraints previously imposed on the textile sector. Licensing was removed in the early 90`s by the Statement of Industrial Policy and the Textile Development and Regulation Order. In 1995, India signed the General Agreement of Tariffs and Trade bringing some of its policies at par with those at an international level.

At present, the single biggest factor influencing the textile industry appears to be the end of the textile quota regime of quantitative import restrictions under the multi-fiber arrangement (MFA) on 1st January, 2005 under the World Trade Organization (WTO) Agreement on Textiles and Clothing. The removal of quotas, seen as an opportunity by many, including the government, is driving investment and liberalization in the textile space.

India can also grab opportunities in the export market. The industry has the potential of attaining $34bn export earnings by the year 2010. The regulatory polices is helping out to enhance infrastructures of apparel parks, Specialized textile parks, EPZs and EOUs.

Environmental Factors

Environment protection and preservation is responsibility of the textile industry. The Government of India is committed to the preservation of ecological balance.

Pollution free technology and recycling of industrial wastes and effluents has become a corporate concern now. Legislative measures have been adopted for this purpose, important legislations in this connection,

The water (preservation and control of pollution) Act, 1974 provides for the prevention and control of water pollution. The Air Act, 1981 aims at preventing, controlling, and reducing air pollution. The environment (protection) Act, 1986 ensures the protection and improvement in the quality of the environment.

Government Support and Schemes

The Indian handloom industry is critical for the growth of the economy owing to its high potential for export, foreign exchange earnings for India and its employment potential.

The sector also plays a critical role in women empowerment given that a very large proportion of weavers involved in this industry are women.

Given the importance attached to this sector, the Government has also played its role in supporting growth of the sector through a series of policy measures introduced in the recent past. The budget outlay for the sector in the Twelfth five-year plan was ₹ 4314.31 crores.

The Indian government has introduced various schemes and made interventions to preserve the rich heritage of the Indian handloom industry and promote its culture.

A brief analysis of the some of the major programmes introduced over the years by the government is provided below. It may be noted that the various initiatives taken by the government are directed towards areas such as cluster development, availability of credit, promotion of exports, supporting environmental compliances, provisions of social welfare schemes for weavers, infrastructure development, availability of raw materials, brand building, marketing and R&D.

National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP)

The objective of the programme is holistic and integrated development of handloom industry and welfare of weavers. The programme supports weavers, both within and outside the cooperative fold including Self Help Groups, NGOs etc. towards credit design inputs, technology upgradation, marketing support and skill upgradation.

The major components of the scheme are as follows:

• Concessional Credit for the handloom sector through the Weaver Mudra Scheme:  The scheme was launched in September 2015 with the aim to provide loans at concessional interest rate of 6% for a period of three years. Also, money margin assistance to a maximum of ₹ 10000 per weaver and credit guarantee for a period of three years is provided by the scheme. The scheme has benefitted over 52059 weavers and a loan of ₹ 271.62 crores was sanctioned under the name of Weaver Mudra Scheme.
• Block level cluster projects: A cluster in the block is eligible to avail financial assistance up to ₹ 2.00 crores for Common Facility Centre (CFC) including Common Service Centre (CSC), engagement of textile designer cum marketing initiative, construction of common and individual work shed, appointment of Cluster Development Executive (CDE), technological and skill upgradation. Also, financial assistance up to ₹ 50.00 lakh is available for setting up of dye house at district level. 43 block clusters have been sanctioned in the following states during the year 2017-18

E-Dhaga App

In order to enhance the effectiveness of the yarn supply, the National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) launched Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) system and e-Dhaga mobile app in the year 2016. The mobile app enables transparency by allowing the weavers to place their orders directly on the app and accordingly make online payments for the same. The status of the shipments is also available through the app and the app is available in ten languages. The app is helpful to the weavers as they can now access information anytime and anywhere. They can also view yarn stock in NHDC’s depots, warehouses and CFCs, product catalogue and the supplier list. Thus, the app is important to address individual concerns of weavers such as availability of raw material, delays in supplies and ensuring stocks in depots.

• It is notable to mention the role of women leaders in the Indian economy who have taken steps to support and stimulate the growth of the handloom Some of the instances of such measures are discussed below:
• Union Textile Minister, Smriti Irani initiated the campaign #iwearhandloom on Twitter and Facebook to increase awareness of the poor conditions of weavers and encourage consumers to wear
• Actress Sharmila Tagore launched the centenary celebrations of Bengal Home Industries –the country’s first NGO to promote the handloom industry in
• Women’s Weave by Sally Holkar provides employment to thousands of women in the handloom She also plans to expand her industry by investing in her weavers who will be trained to use computers and speak English to interact better with Indian urban or international customers.
• Well know fashion designer Anita Dongre has taken up steps to promote the Indian handloom and handicraft industry by hosting fashion shows to showcase India’s glamourous
• Designer and politician Shaina NC associated with Lakme Fashion Week to promote the Banarasi handlooms.

Karyashil Punji

In 2020 Working capital of Rs 10,000 was provided to the weavers by the Government of India.

Solar power scheme

In 2012-13 an amount of Rs 4050 was provided to weavers by the Government of India. The weavers has to contribute Rs 500 extra to buy the solar panels

Handloom Development Scheme

Under these scheme workers were provide with a amount at intervals of 15k to buy handlooms for weaving.

Cycle Yojna

In 2012 weavers were provided with Rs 15k to buy cycles for them.

Dobby

Assistance of Rs 45,000 will be provide to individual workers by WSC(weavers service centre) for purchasing dobby in 2021. The weavers has to contribute Rs 500 to buy dobby.

Going forward, it is important to increase awareness and capacity building which will lead to greater participation, greater decision making and control and transformation of women associated with the handloom sector. Some of the approaches to meet this objective could be:

• To encourage self-help groups to establish weaver cooperative societies exclusively for women Having specific development programmes and allocations in the national budget
• Providing literacy programmes and conducting skill development programs to improve standard of living of women
• Implementing welfare schemes related to healthcare and insurance with particular focus on women.
• Celebrity endorsements of events and shows showcasing Indian handloom industry on program
• It is important that the contribution of women weavers and women working in ancillary activities is fully rec- ognised in official Women should be accorded same status as men during the census /other enumer- ations and counted as primary workers.
• This would not only boost women’s participation in work force but also ensure that women handloom workers are able to access institutional credit and other government schemes in their own name which will further im- prove their creditworthiness for future

Major Support Institution in the Sector

Working weavers are manly get support by :

• Craft mela– There are several events like art and craft mela which is helping out artisans and weavers by doing exhibition of their handmade products.
• Artisan workshop – Along with this, there are several institutions where artisans were taught and can display it.
• Besides this, there are several NGOs that are helping artisans to grow.

Challenges Faced by the Sector

Even though ladies plays an integral part of the Indian loom business, there’s not enough recognition of their contribution to the arena.

Most women weavers are illiterate or semi illiterate because of poor economic conditions that casts doubt on their Social Security and future aspirations. Whereas ladies within the NER have a definite advantage in enjoying cultural freedom of handling work on their own, ladies in most different elements of Asian nation are strained inside male central atmosphere that doesn’t recognise ladies to perform as equals. Non commissioned as housewives ,they assist menfolk and are so thought to be secondary employees as against men.

It’s necessary that the contribution of ladies weavers and ladies operating in supportive activities is totally recognised in official statistics.

Ladies ought to be accorded same standing as men throughout the census /other enumerations and counted as primary employees. This will not solely boost ladies’s participation in men however additionally make sure that women loom employees are able to access institutional credit and different government schemes in their own name which can any improve their trustworthiness for future growth.

Another issues and challenges that are stifling growth of the loom sector and impacting its property are – shortage of inputs and downside of capital, lack of credit, promoting problems like lack of awareness on client preferences, inability to differentiate between loom and loom product, lack of promotional campaigns, inconsistencies in quality of product and inefficiencies in provide chain, larger competition from power looms and mills, technological mental retardation, scarcity in new styles, reduction in variety of weavers, poor policy dissemination and information crunch etc.

Suggestions for Promoting Sustainable Growth

The importance and connectedness of the loom sector to the economy is seen from the vision set out by the govt. For the world that is to develop a powerful, competitive and spirited sector so as to produce property employment to the weavers and supportive staff, significantly happiness to the underprivileged sections of the population and to make sure quicker, additional comprehensive growth of the world.

So as to realize property growth, it’s necessary that efforts square measure created to deal with the challenges the world is presently facing. This could need moving off from the business- approach. A transparent strategy which might be enforced and would change success is required. Whereas many initiatives square measure afoot, there’s loads which will be done to push handlooms within the country. Backed by literature review, the subsequent suggestions for promoting loom business in India square measure created for thought.

Regular Supply of Raw Materials

Good quality yarn is that the basic staple for weavers that are unfold across the country. NHDC is to blame for providing / supply yarn to the weavers. However presently the yarn required by weavers is provided by NHDC. NHDC ought to proportion its operations and came upon a network of regional yarn depots with support from non-public sector mills. It’s vital that almost all weavers ought to get delivery of yarn as per demand in a very timely manner.

Introduce New Design Elements

While protective the normal styles, there’s a necessity to at the same time evolve with the time. Weavers ought to be engaged in style workshops and target-hunting to experiment to enhance marketability of latest product. There’s a necessity for innovation and experimentation in styles by the artisans in order that they will differentiate and face up to competition from the mechanized processes. Abhiyan (UBA) theme beneath that village clusters in eight districts across totally different Indian states are adopted by the India Institute of Technology (Delhi). The target is to handle the organic process challenges faced by the agricultural individuals and supply solutions that might facilitate in their property growth. Similar initiatives will be smitten the support of personal fashion institutes which will add clusters and support the weaving community.

Improve Credit Delivery

Easy access to credit and increasing awareness concerning the obtainable schemes has to be unfold among the artisans in order that they will enjoy the initiatives. Weavers should get the credit on soft terms as they’re imagined to with the new initiatives like gap from bank accounts, direct delivery of subsidies and digital governance. they ought to be brought beneath the horizon of January Dhan– Aadhaar-Mobile (JAM) Trinity as this might effectively cut leakages by sanctioning higher delivery of Direct profit Transfer (DBT), eliminate faux beneficiaries and cause money inclusion.

Focus on quality standards

Extensive education campaigns ar required to focus on the importance of high standards within the raw materials utilized in loom product. consumers in international markets ar notably sensitive to sensible quality product. top quality product can therefore fetch higher costs for the weavers. Weavers additionally got to be target-hunting on use of quality dyes. Workshops on colouring processes and color abstinence processes ought to be control frequently.

Leverage e-commerce platforms

E-commerce platforms should be wont to increase the reach to newer customers and markets. Already platforms like Amazon and Flipkart ar operating with many artisans to require their product international. This trend should be powerfully inspired, and e-commerce firms ought to give support in areas like finance, selling and provision to the artisans.

Connect with private sector through CSR

Leverage the experience of personal firms by connecting ladies weavers with company CSR funds through CSR programmes in line with global organization SDG goals to realize gender equality and empower all ladies and ladies and eradicate economic condition.

Scaling up marketplaces for handloom products

As handlooms ar a serious supply of attracting for tourists, marketplaces like urban center Haat ought to be replicated across the country. Such market places ought to be came upon in cities like metropolis, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Shimla, Kochi, Mysore, and Ahmedabad as these cities see massive influx of tourists.

Have a National Campaign on Handlooms

There is a necessity to possess a National Campaign for Handlooms going on the far side cloth. By victimisation electronic and medium, campaigns ought to be run to focus on the novelty issue of ancient Indian loom product

Use of multi-channel marketing

Tie-ups will be promoted with massive malls, retail chains, sustenance joints to earmark some house of show and sale of loom product. As these places see sensible footfalls, it’ll facilitate in promoting handlooms sales.

Strengthen Common Infrastructure Facilities

There is a need for regular quality assessment of yarns, dyeing, finishing and packaging to create permanent space for handlooms in domestic and international markets. Also, Common Facility Centre /dyeing units promoted under the Cluster Development Programmes of Integrated Handlooms Development Scheme (IHDS) should be scaled up in partnership with the State governments to cover all the major weaving clusters in the country.

Promote Handloom Mark

The Handloom Mark, which is an indicator of high-quality products should be widely promoted as it can help in realising premium prices for handloom products just like higher prices are charged for organic food products.

Have more State Level Initiatives

It is notable that Kerala supplies its own handloom products woven by traditional artisans in energy efficient looms. The state provides free handloom uniforms to students in government schools. This brings a pool

of weavers under the government scheme which envisages the strengthening of the handloom sector in the state. The state also plans to revive its Kerala Handloom Brand alongside its handloom uniform project to bring more value addition to its products and good marketing. Similar initiatives can be taken in other states to boost the handloom industry.

Develop Comprehensive Database for the Sector

The latest available comprehensive data set on the sector available is the Third Handloom Census conduct- ed in 2009-10. To be able to regularly review the growth trends in the sector and make appropriate policies, there is a need to have more recent and updated data on the socioeconomic indicators of the sector. In 2016, Government had announced that Fourth Handloom Census will be conducted. This should be expedited.

Problems faced by Handloom Weavers

PROBLEM

Weavers here do not work in any industrial setup. Looms are set up at their homes and work is done by the family members. Due to this they did not plan the working space. Accessing raw materials or tools from loom takes a lot of time as the work space is not divided into sections. This decreases their productivity.

SOLUTION

The working is very small and cluttered. It should be divided into separate sections. Samples, raw materials like yarns, all preparatory processes should happen at different sections. Planning should be done in a way that movement of man, machine and material is least and there is an easy flow in all the processes. Tools used for maintenance of machines should also be placed in a separate tool box.

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PROBLEM

Weavers get orders from mahajans and they deliver the finished product to these mahajans. Since they do not have any fixed amount of orders every month so, working hours is not fixed. They work on the basis of the order they receive.

SOLUTION

When weavers do not have any orders, they should utilize their time in learning some skills. If they will learn embroidery or stitching, they can develop their own products other than the usual work they do. This will increase their income. Government emphasizes on various skill development programmes. Weavers should attend these skill development programmes and try new products which would eventually increase their customer base.

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PROBLEM

Earlier weavers used to have orders from mahajans; but since corona virus outbreak they have not got any orders. After completing their previous orders; they had no work to do. They had to take loan for feeding their family.

SOLUTION

The designs that these weavers produce are beautiful and attractive. These designs can be sold at a very good price. But the problem is that people are not aware that there are weavers in this region that produce such beautiful designs. Institutions like NIFT that have worked with these weavers should promote them in every way possible. Also, if these weavers sell their products on online platforms, people will come to know about handloom products and their sale will increase. Government should take such initiatives of launching their work on online platforms.

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PROBLEM

Weavers have no accessibility to market. So, they are compelled to produce what suppliers ask from them.

SOLUTION

Because weavers do not have any accessibility to market, they do not have any platform where they can showcase their creativity and unique products. Weaver’s fares should be organized where weavers can directly sell their products. This should be done at least 2 times a year so that weavers can sell products according to the season and customer can get variety of products.

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PROBLEM

Weavers work in a very poor condition. No fans are present at the workplace and lights are also not appropriate for weaving especially at night. They even have to use torches for weaving at night. This can affect their eyesight very badly as they are into this profession since their childhood.

SOLUTION

Weavers work in a very poor condition. No fans are present at the workplace and lights are also not appropriate for weaving especially at night. They even have to use torches for weaving at night. This can affect their eyesight very badly as they are into this profession since their childhood.

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PROBLEM

Lack of knowledge about fashion industry or appropriate technologies due to which they are unable to upgrade their skills on the variations of designs, appropriate weaving techniques and packaging of the final fabrics and products.

SOLUTION

Government should be provide the weavers with skill and design development courses through training programs or clusters at regular intervals through to introduce them to the latest technologies and techniques of weaving which will allow the weavers to enhance and explore more variations in designs and products made by them through weaving.

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PROBLEM

Government schemes and funds which is being provided is insufficient and not much beneficial as per the livelihood of the weavers. The amount of fund they get for handlooms is provided to them in intervals and also they are provided the half or less amount than the exact amount for buying basic necessity items for weaving such as handlooms, solar panels etc.

SOLUTION

Government should increase the awareness and satisfactory amount to buy the basic necessity items should be provided to the weavers through the schemes to improve their livelihood and to enhance their income.

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PROBLEM

The amount of work order and wages the weaver receives is inconsistent and not sufficient for the livelihood of him and his family. This is probably due to the drop in the demand of handloom made fabrics in the era of cheap and widespread power loom fabric.

SOLUTION

Handweavers should attain skill-building courses through training programs and should gain skills from their older generation who were master weavers and should focus on exploring variations in designs and weaving higher value fabric, and can create fabric which cannot be replicated on power looms which will result in gaining higher value in the market.

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PROBLEM

People are not much familiar with his work as they don’t get enough exposure that they deserve. Also, the number of individual orders they get is very less and not sufficient.

SOLUTION

Government should provide the weavers with a marketing platform both offline and online and should provide them with inputs such as adequate tools and raw materials to respond to the existing market demands to customize their fabrics and products as per the demand of the market and customers.

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PROBLEM

Weaver is only paid for weaving and not for the preparatory process. Family members of weaver such as his wife and children who are involved in the preparatory process which takes min 4-5 days don’t get paid for their work.

SOLUTION

The wages should be pre-decided as per the process of weaving in spite of only getting paid for the weaving process. The women who are involved in preparatory process should also be paid for her work. This will lead to the empowerment of women and will provide women with incentive to get involved in weaving process too. So, the men of the family can get involved in other works too which will provide them with more earning opportunities and will enhance their livelihood conditions.

An Untold Story of Gulam Quadir

 

Today the society consists of various member weavers and workers, hailing from the villages who are widely dispersed around town. This can be jotted down that predominantly men sit at the looms, the bulk of pre- loom work is carried out by women and the other family members.

Around 15 of the most experienced members are Master Weavers – those who are capable to weave more complicated patterns or hard to handle yarns, who innovate with modern fibres, designs, and strategies, and who can equip the younger weavers.

Working from 10 to 6 every day with night shifts too sometimes, weavers’ earnings are set by the amount of piece work or the length of the fabric produced.

At 60 years of age, he is a master weaver who has 45 years of weaving knowledge behind him. Jointly with his wife and other family members he lives on the society compound, weaving by day.

Gulam Quadir took a weaving training course when he was young from his ancestors and now specializes in the more difficult weaves – he weaves linen and linen- silk blends, as well as jamdanis. He is fond of creating new designs to in the market and always keen to learn something out of the box. Recently he enrolled in the jacquard training to enhance his skills.

In a conversation with Gulam Quadir, we got to know that the work has declined since the lockdown period with prior clients cancelling orders too. Quadir shows huge disappointment considering the decline in buyers.

He got pretty emotional and added that earlier it used to be one of the fine works in Bhagalpur and everyone used to get ‘n’ number of clients for weaving. Sometimes, clients used to pay double the amount for early delivery.

This implies that not merely is the handloom industry approaching a sluggish demise with the absence of new weavers, but also that age-old skill, like the complicated jamdani that Indians may still see in their grandmother’s saris, will dye out with the older weavers.

Even the number of weavers in the society who can weave linen – a more delicate and difficult fibre to work with and something that is not traditionally woven in India – is only a few.