There are many ways to mark the inside of a garment, but experts use tailor tacks most often. A tailor tack is a short length of thread placed in the fabric. Correctly done, it is the safest way to mark, and can be used on more fabrics than any other marking system.
There are many ways to mark the inside of a garment, but experts use tailor tacks most often. A tailor tack is a short length of thread placed in the fabric.
Tailor tacks should be used to mark details:
- Dart points (on double pointed darts, also tack at the waistline)
- Pocket placement
- Anywhere the pattern shows a dot or square
The thread used in making tailor tacks must be chosen with care. (Imagine using black thread on white fabric and having fine black fibers in the cloth, forever!) Even heat and moisture from an iron can fade some colors of thread into the fabric and leave a spot. The best thread to use will have a smooth finish (glazed basting thread or silk thread). Protect your fabric by making sure that the color and composition of the thread is high-quality. The needle should be approximately a size 7. Manufacturers label the needle packages as “sharps” (dressmaker) or “between” (tailor). Either can be used for tailor
How to mark and cut Tailor Tracks?
We can mark and cut Tailor tracks in the following ways:-
- Use an unknotted, double thread. Place your needle straight into the fabric as if it were a thumbtack. Put the index finger of your left hand on the fabric in front of the needle, the same way you would put a pin in the fabric. Make a big stitch and push upward with the needle. Then go through both layers with as small a stitch as you can make. Do not put your hand under the fabric layers as you work, or slippage will occur. Place all stitches in a line at one time, pulling the thread loosely as you go.
- Place your shears on the pattern and fabric at the end of the thread (where a knot would be).Press the point of the shears down on the fabric to keep it and the pattern from becoming bunched between the stitches. Pull the needle and thread until all stitches lay flat and you have 1″ of thread at the end. Cut the thread 1″ on the other side of the stitch. Again, pull the thread until it’s 1″ from the tack, and cut on the other side. Continue until all thread tacks are cut. Lift the pattern up and off.
- Now you must cut the tacks apart between the layers. “Hammer” a tailor tack down with your shears. (The tailor tack needs to be held down or it might pull out when lifting up the second layer.) Roll one layer away from you until you can see the thread color of the tailor tack. Cut the thread. The shorter you cut the tailor tack, the longer it will stay. Cut all the tailor tacks apart. On the top side of the fabric, trim the long thread as close as possible. Contrary to belief, long ends are more likely to pull out of the fabric and short ends stay in.
Another easy way to mark the inside detail on your fabric is with special fabric markers
- All pen and pencil markers need to be tested on the fabric before using.
- Not all markers can be removed from all fabrics. Some can only be removed before heat is applied with an iron. Make holes at the pattern’s dart points to allow the marker point to mark the fabric accurately