Standard Apparel Construction Guidelines

• All buttons must be in accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and the care instructions selected for the garment.
• Each button must be securely attached to garments with at least 16 stitches.
• Fast dye all buttons to prevent dye from running.

• Stitch density of buttonholes must have full edge cover with no fraying.
• Cleanly cut buttonholes and trim all threads.
• Tie off and secure stitches, where using a single thread chain-stitch buttonhole. Do not use slip stitches in the sidebars.
• Position buttonholes correctly to prevent unfastening, dragging and gaping.

• Buttonholes must be the correct size for the button.
• Position buttons for horizontal buttonholes at the end closest to the edge of the garment.
• Position buttons for vertical buttonholes central to the buttonhole.
• Align buttons and buttonholes to match from the top to the bottom of the garment.

• All interlinings used in collars must be in accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and the care instructions selected for the garment.
• The top collar must cover the under the collar when it is finished.
• Linking used to attach neckbands and collars must stretch to achieve the neck opening specified.
• The collar must cover the back neck seam when it is turned down.
• Collar and lapel points must be symmetrical and match.

• Distribute the gathering evenly where the body fabric is gathered into cuffs and basques.
• Ribbed cuffs must have sufficient extension to accommodate the wrist and recover to original size. For example, to be reinforced with elastane.
• Stripes, checks, and borders must be the same on the right side cuff and left side cuff.

• Drawcord ends must not extend more than 25 cm from the garment.
• Elastic and stretch cord is considered as a high-risk material when used as a drawcord.
• Mock drawcords are acceptable.

To guarantee safety is a priority, ensure all drawcord guidelines are followed.

• Neck Openings: Secure the drawcord at the center back neck to prevent movement.
• Hood openings: Secure the drawcord at the center top of the hood to prevent movement.
• Waist openings for pants, shorts, and skirts: Secure the drawcord at the center back of the waist to prevent movement.
• Pant, short and skirt hems: This is a high-risk area of the garment. Safety and garment design for the individual must be considered at all times when drawcords are used.
• Top and sleeve hems: This is a high-risk area of the garment. Safety and garment design for the individual must be considered at all times when drawcords are used.

• Securely back-stitch or bar-tack the base of the fly.
• The excess fabric must not restrict slider movement.

• Twisted panels or seams are unacceptable.
• Where garments have full front openings, the fronts must finish level at the hem opening.
• All gathering must be evenly distributed and even from side-to-side.
• Garments must be properly trimmed, cleaned and loose threads removed.
• Shading from panel to panel, within the same garment, is unacceptable.

• Hems are flat and even in depth without twisting or roping.
• Blind stitched and welted hems must have the correct depth of needle penetration to minimize strikethrough and the visibility of stitches on the outer fabric.

• All interlinings must be in accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and the care instructions selected for the garment.
• The dark color fabric must have dark interlining and light color fabric must have light interlining.
• All fused interlinings must be securely attached to the base fabric.
• Conceal interlinings and ensure they do not show beyond the base fabric.
• Interlinings must not show through the fabric (strikethrough).

• Twisting of the lining is unacceptable.
• The size of the lining used must be consistent with the dimensions of the outer garment shell. For example, the crotch length of a pant lining must be correctly graded to ensure a comfortable fit and be compatible with the body of the pant.

• All metal press studs and buckles must be in accordance with the Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—Revised Specification.
• Metal press studs and buckles must:
  not rust not have sharp edges or burring.

• pressing marks
• presser footmarks
• feeder damage
• glazing
• crushed pile.
• The fabric pile of each panel in the garment must lie in the same direction to avoid shade defects.

• ‘Warm iron on reverse side’
• ‘Do not dry clean’

• Ensure pocket flaps are securely attached.
• Completely conceal all drill holes and chalk marks used for positioning pockets and flaps.
• Do not allow puckering to occur when attaching patch pockets.
• The fabric used in pocket bags must be of relevant weight and strength. Refer to Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—Revised Specification for more information.
• Minimum openings for sideseam pockets are:
  children—10 cm
  adults—15 cm.
• Ends of sideseam pockets must be caught into seams or reinforced at the top and bottom.
• Pocket facings must not roll out or show the lining.
• Pocket jet welts must not gape or be stretched when finished.
• Pockets are symmetrical.
• Pockets must match left and right side

• Creasing, glazing and harsh pressing.
• Pressing marks.

• Reinforce any cuffs, basques or ribs with elastomeric yarn.
• The elasticity of rib must be acceptable to stretch and recovery.

• Seams must be strong enough to withstand a reasonable pull.
• Refer to Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—Revised Specification for more information.
• Threads must match the color of the base fabric.

• All cover stitches must be even and the density properly balanced.
• When working with knitted or stretch fabrics, use a ball point needle to avoid causing needle damage.
• When working with stretch fabrics, choose a suitable stretch thread and sewing procedure to accommodate the stretch of the base fabric.
• Latch back yarn or sewing thread at the end of seams.
• Secure all plain machine starts and ends by back-stitching.
• Seams must be free of puckering and grinning.
• Cracking of seams (breaking) is unacceptable.

• Do not use monofilament thread.
• The sewing thread must be compatible with the fabric and the intended end use of the garment in the following areas:
  breaking strength
  elasticity
  color-fastness
  shrink resistance
  heat resistance.
• Use the same yarn for the base fabric in knitted garments for linking unless the tensile strength is insufficient. For example, jumpers and cardigans.
• Match all sewing threads to the body fabric unless otherwise specified. In case of prints or splicing, match the thread to the predominant color.

• Do not use yellowed or discolored shoulder pads.
• Correctly and evenly position shoulder pads.

• Produce straps on overalls/pinafores with folded edges or turned through.
• Ends must be neatly finished and attached securely to the garment.
• Back-stitch straps securely at the point of attachment.

• Firmly attach all studs and eyelets without damaging the surrounding fabric.
• All metal fastenings must be smooth-edged, free from burrs and sharp edges.
• Securely attach studs and eyelets through two or more layers of fabric, ensuring the fabric is not pleated or damaged.
• Studs and eyelets must be rust proof.

• last the life of the garment (item)
• correctly align to avoid gaping of the waistband
• not crush during pressing
• not rust, if metal.

• Zippers must be rust proof.
• All zippers must have a secure locking mechanism on the slider.
• When a slide fastener is attached to a garment:
  avoid stretching the opening
  the hem on either side of the opening must be level
  the insertion method does not restrict the slider movement.
• Slide fasteners must be in accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and the care instructions selected for the garment.
• Do not use aluminum zippers