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Core-Spun Yarn Core Ratio, Sheath Cover & Stretch Potential

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See what it looks like

A 78 dtex elastane fed at 3.5x draft is 22 dtex inside the yarn.

Core What is fed and how hard it is drafted
tex

7.8 tex is 78 dtex, a common elastane

x
g/cm3

Elastane about 1.21, polyester 1.38

Yarn The finished strand
tex
g/cm3

Packing density of the spun strand, not the fibre

Core Ratio by Mass

— %

Delivered core against the finished yarn

Core, Sheath & Cover

Core Inside the Yarn
— tex
Sheath Linear Density
— tex
Sheath Wall Thickness
— um
Core Diameter
— um
Yarn Diameter
— um
Cover as a Share of Yarn Radius
— %
Core Stretch Held in the Yarn
— %
Sheath to Core Mass Ratio
— x

Both strands are treated as solid circular sections, which is reasonable for the elastane monofilament and only nominal for the spun yarn - a real spun yarn is neither circular nor uniform along its length. The cover thickness is therefore a design figure for comparing constructions, not a measurable wall. Core concentricity is not modelled at all and is the dominant real-world variable: an eccentric core can reduce the local wall to near zero while every figure here is unchanged. The stretch potential shown is the core draft expressed as a percentage and represents the extension stored in the core, not the stretch the finished fabric will exhibit, which depends on the construction and on the finishing. Elastane linear density is nominal and drifts with package build as the feed tension changes.

Using this calculator

About the Core-Spun Yarn Core Ratio, Sheath Cover & Stretch Potential

The formula

This is the expression the tool evaluates. Every term is named underneath, with the unit it must be supplied in.

The core is drafted before it is covered
deliveredCoreTex = coreSupplyTex / coreDraft

Elastane is fed under draft so that it is held stretched while the sheath is spun round it. Drafting a strand three and a half times makes it three and a half times finer, so the elastane inside the yarn is a fraction of what the package says.

Mass split between core and sheath
coreRatio = deliveredCoreTex / totalTex x 100 sheathTex = totalTex - deliveredCoreTex

Core ratio is quoted on the delivered core, not the supply, and confusing the two overstates the elastane content by the draft factor - which matters commercially, because elastane is the expensive component.

Linear density to a diameter in micrometres
diameter = sqrt( 4 x tex x 1e-6 / ( density x 1000 ) / pi ) x 1e6

The core uses the solid polymer density because it is a monofilament or a compact multifilament; the yarn uses its bulk density, because a spun strand has air in it. Using one density for both is the standard error and it distorts the cover thickness badly.

The wall between core and surface
coverThickness = ( yarnDiameter - coreDiameter ) / 2

This is the sheath depth an abrasion, a shear or a needle has to get through before it reaches the elastane. Concentricity matters as much as thickness: an eccentric core reduces the wall on one side to a fraction of this figure, which is where grin-through actually starts.

Symbols used above
SymbolStands forUnit
dtexDecitex, grams per 10,000 m - the usual elastane unitdtex
core draftRatio by which the elastane is stretched as it is fedx
grin-throughCore becoming visible at the yarn surface—

How the result is derived

Step by step, from the values you type to the figure on screen.

  1. The 5 inputs are read from the form on every keystroke: Core Supply Linear Density, Core Draft, Core Fibre Density, Finished Yarn Linear Density and Yarn Bulk Density.
  2. Each value is checked against the accepted range in the input table below. A value outside its range stops the calculation rather than producing a misleading figure — the results blank out and a message appears.
  3. The validated values are substituted into the expression above, which resolves Core Ratio by Mass together with every supporting figure in one pass — no value is carried over from a previous entry.
  4. The supporting outputs — Core Inside the Yarn, Sheath Linear Density, Sheath Wall Thickness, Core Diameter, Yarn Diameter, Cover as a Share of Yarn Radius, Core Stretch Held in the Yarn and Sheath to Core Mass Ratio — come from the same pass, so they always describe the same case as the headline figure.
  5. Results are rounded for display only. The full-precision value is used throughout the chain, so reading a rounded intermediate figure back into the tool by hand can shift the last digit.

What each input means

Where to read each value on the floor, the unit it must be in, and the range the tool accepts.

InputUnitAccepted rangeDefaultWhat it means
Core Supply Linear Densitytex1 to 100 tex7.87.8 tex is 78 dtex, a common elastane
Core Draftx1 to 6 x3.5
Core Fibre Densityg/cm30.8 to 2 g/cm31.21Elastane about 1.21, polyester 1.38
Finished Yarn Linear Densitytex5 to 200 tex25
Yarn Bulk Densityg/cm30.3 to 1.3 g/cm30.85Packing density of the spun strand, not the fibre

What the tool returns

The headline figure and every supporting value it is built from.

OutputUnitWhat it tells you
Core Ratio by Mass (headline result)%Delivered core against the finished yarn
Core Inside the Yarntex
Sheath Linear Densitytex
Sheath Wall Thicknessum
Core Diameterum
Yarn Diameterum
Cover as a Share of Yarn Radius%
Core Stretch Held in the Yarn%
Sheath to Core Mass Ratiox

Worked example

Given

0
7.8 tex (78 dtex) elastane at 3.5x core draft
1
Finished yarn 25 tex
2
Elastane density 1.21 g/cm3, yarn bulk density 0.85 g/cm3

Substituting

deliveredCoreTex = 7.8 / 3.5 = 2.2286 texcoreRatio = 2.2286 / 25 = 8.91%Core area = 2.2286e-6 / 1210 = 1.842e-9 m2, so 48.43 umYarn area = 25e-6 / 850 = 2.941e-8 m2, so 193.52 umcoverThickness = (193.52 - 48.43) / 2 = 72.54 um

Answer

0
Core ratio 8.91% by mass
1
Core inside the yarn 2.229 tex; sheath 22.771 tex
2
Core 48.43 um across inside a 193.52 um yarn
3
Sheath wall 72.54 um, which is 74.98% of the yarn radius
4
250% stretch held in the core, sheath-to-core mass 10.22

Seventy-two micrometres of sheath is thinner than a human hair, and that is the nominal figure with the core perfectly centred. Real core-spun yarn is never perfectly centred, which is why grin-through is a concentricity problem rather than a coverage problem, and why it appears at the ring frame rather than in the recipe.

How to use it

  1. Work through the input groups in order — Core and Yarn. The defaults are a realistic case, so you can change one value at a time and watch what moves.
  2. There is no calculate button. Every figure recalculates as you type or drag, which is what makes this usable for a what-if sweep rather than a single answer.
  3. Read Core Ratio by Mass in the dark results panel — that is the headline figure, expressed in %.
  4. Check the supporting rows underneath (Core Inside the Yarn, Sheath Linear Density, Sheath Wall Thickness, Core Diameter, Yarn Diameter, Cover as a Share of Yarn Radius, Core Stretch Held in the Yarn and Sheath to Core Mass Ratio) before acting on the headline — they are where an implausible input usually shows itself first.
  5. Reset to defaults returns every field to the reference case, which is the quickest way to check whether a surprising result came from the tool or from an input you had changed earlier.

Where this is used

  • Process planning — establishing Core Ratio by Mass before a trial is booked, so machine time and material in Spinning, Winding & Yarn Package Engineering are committed against a calculated figure rather than an estimate.
  • Costing and quotation — Core Ratio by Mass is an input to the cost sheet, and quoting from a worked number rather than a remembered one is what keeps a margin intact.
  • Troubleshooting — when the floor result drifts from plan, entering the measured values (starting with Core Supply Linear Density) shows how much of the gap in Core Ratio by Mass each variable explains.
  • Teaching and study — the accepted ranges bracket normal Spinning, Winding & Yarn Package Engineering practice, so moving one variable at a time shows the shape of the relationship rather than a single answer.

Reading the result

Typical bands and what each one is telling you.

ValueWhat it indicates
3 - 8% core ratioNormal for elastane core-spun apparel yarn.
2.5 - 4.0x core draftStandard elastane feed draft. Higher gives more stretch and more breakage risk.
Cover above 70% of radiusGood coverage in the nominal geometry.
Core ratio above 12%Heavy stretch construction; check that the sheath still covers under extension.

Assumptions and limits

  • Both strands are treated as solid circular sections, which is reasonable for the elastane monofilament and only nominal for the spun yarn - a real spun yarn is neither circular nor uniform along its length. The cover thickness is therefore a design figure for comparing constructions, not a measurable wall. Core concentricity is not modelled at all and is the dominant real-world variable: an eccentric core can reduce the local wall to near zero while every figure here is unchanged. The stretch potential shown is the core draft expressed as a percentage and represents the extension stored in the core, not the stretch the finished fabric will exhibit, which depends on the construction and on the finishing. Elastane linear density is nominal and drifts with package build as the feed tension changes.
  • Every input is bounded to the range normal practice occupies (Core Supply Linear Density 1 to 100 tex, Core Draft 1 to 6 x and Core Fibre Density 0.8 to 2 g/cm3, and so on for the rest). Those bounds are guard rails against typing errors, not a claim that the formula fails one unit outside them.
  • The calculation is deterministic: the same inputs always give the same result. It carries no allowance for machine condition, operator skill, ambient conditions or lot-to-lot material variation unless an input above explicitly represents one.
  • Nothing is sent anywhere. The maths runs in your browser, so the numbers you type never leave the page.

Standards and further reading

  • ASTM D2731 - Elastic Properties of Elastomeric Yarns.
  • ISO 2062 / ASTM D2256 - tensile properties of the finished yarn.
  • ISO 1833 - quantitative analysis, the method that verifies the core ratio on the finished product.
  • AATCC 66 - Wrinkle Recovery, and ASTM D3107 for stretch fabric properties the core produces.

Questions people ask

Should core percentage be quoted on the supply count or the delivered count?

The delivered count, always - it is what is actually in the yarn and what a chemical analysis will find. Quoting on the supply count overstates elastane content by the draft factor, which at 3.5x means claiming 31% where the yarn holds 8.9%. Since elastane is by far the most expensive component per kilogram, the difference is commercial as well as technical, and it is worth being explicit about which basis a specification uses.

What causes grin-through if the cover calculation says 72 micrometres?

Eccentricity, almost always. The 72 um figure assumes the core sits exactly on the yarn axis; in practice it wanders, and wherever it approaches the surface the local wall is a fraction of the nominal. Causes are the elastane guide position relative to the drafting zone, uneven sheath fibre distribution, and tension variation in the elastane feed. It is a spinning-geometry fault, not a recipe fault, which is why raising the sheath mass rarely fixes it.

Why draft the elastane at all rather than feed it relaxed?

Because the stretch has to be stored in the yarn. Elastane fed relaxed and covered would produce a yarn with almost no recovery power - the sheath would simply be longer than the core needs. Feeding it at 3.5x means the core is held extended inside a sheath spun to that extended length, so when tension is released the core contracts and gathers the sheath, giving the yarn its stretch and recovery. The core draft is effectively the stretch specification.

Does the yarn bulk density matter much to the answer?

To the mass figures, not at all - core ratio and sheath tex are pure mass arithmetic. To the geometry, considerably: bulk density sets the yarn diameter, and the cover thickness is a difference between two diameters, so an error in bulk density lands entirely on the cover. Values between 0.7 and 0.95 g/cm3 are normal for spun yarn depending on twist and fibre, and it is worth measuring rather than assuming if the cover figure is being used for a decision.

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