Covers fabric constructions from woven and knitted to nonwovens and composites. Details GSM, cover factor, drape, air permeability, pilling resistance, and handle. Includes test methods and how structure drives performance. This section explains practical decision criteria, typical test methods, and failure modes that matter in real production. Readers get checklists, calculation steps, and case examples connecting specifications to cost, reliability, and compliance. Links map core concepts to upstream inputs and downstream processes so choices remain consistent across sourcing, manufacturing, and end-use performance. Each article includes definitions, diagrams where helpful, and plain-language notes to help newcomers ramp quickly while giving experienced professionals the depth needed to troubleshoot and optimize. Standards references are cited with context, and whenever trade-offs exist, we make them explicit so you can defend decisions.
Derives the open width a knitted tube gives when slit, from needle count and wales per centimetre, deducts the edge trim, fits markers across the usable width and prices the strip left over – usually the largest single loss in the process.
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Converts the measured spacing of a repeating knitting fault into courses and wales, and from there into the number of feeders or needles that must be involved – turning a ruler measurement on the inspection table into a specific list of parts to look at.
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Computes the extra path length a warp end travels when the shed opens, as strain at the top and bottom shed lines, checks it against the yarn’s breaking extension, and multiplies it by the shed cycles per metre to give the abrasion exposure a construction imposes.
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Compares a positive feeder’s theoretical delivery against the length measured at the machine, converts the slippage into loop length and fabric weight error, and gives the vertical spacing of the banding that feeder-to-feeder variation produces.
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Prices the changeover as a fraction of the batch cycle, compares a random style order against one that groups similar warps into tie-ins, and converts the availability difference into metres and contribution across the shed.
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Turns yarn count and loop length into the tightness factor, brackets the workable loop length between a tight and a slack limit, places the current setting inside that window, and reports needles, fabric weight and yarn consumption at the machine’s running speed.
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Converts measured bow depth and skew offset into the percentages the standards use, checks them against contract limits and the range a weft straightener can actually pull out, and prices the residue as panel twist and squaring trim down the roll.
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Derives the elastane loop length from the plating draft ratio, splits fabric weight between ground yarn and elastane to give the content percentage against target, and reports the extension the elastane is held at and the retraction force per centimetre of fabric.
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Turns a pair of abrasion cycle counts into the cycles gained per point of size add-on, checks the sized yarn against the abrasion the loom actually demands, and back-calculates the add-on that would just meet it – with the size paste and money that over-sizing costs.
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Converts warp, weft and mechanical stop rates per 100,000 picks into stops per hour, weights each by its own mean repair time to build the true downtime Pareto, and prices the result as lost metres and lost margin across the shed.
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