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Knit Tube Slitting: Open Width, Trim Loss & Marker Fit

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See what it looks like

The trim costs three per cent. The marker that does not quite fit twice costs more.

The Tube Machine and relaxed fabric density
npi
in
/cm
cm

Needle line and curl removed at each slit edge

Cutting & Value What the width has to hold and what it is worth
cm
m
/m2

Open Width After Slitting

— cm

Needle count divided by wales per centimetre

Usable Width, Marker Fit & Loss

Width Actually Cut
— %
Markers Across the Width
—
Strip Left Beside the Markers
— cm
Usable Width After Trim
— cm
Edge Trim Loss
— %
Needles in the Cylinder
—
Roll Area
— m2
Area Not Cut
— m2
Value Not Cut
—

Open width is calculated from needle count and finished wales per centimetre, which assumes the fabric is measured relaxed and conditioned; a width taken on tensioned fabric or on greige will be substantially different and will make the marker fit wrong in the optimistic direction. Needle count is the geometric figure from gauge and diameter and ignores needles removed for a pattern or missing through breakage. The model assumes one slit and two trimmed edges; some qualities are slit at both needle lines of a two-track machine or trimmed asymmetrically, and the trim should then be entered as the total halved. Marker fit is computed for a single marker width repeated across; mixed markers of different widths nested across the fabric will do better than this figure and should be planned in a marker system rather than here. The surplus strip is priced at full fabric value, which is deliberate: any recovery value belongs in a separate calculation.

Using this calculator

About the Knit Tube Slitting: Open Width, Trim Loss & Marker Fit

The formula

This is the expression the tool evaluates. Every term is named underneath, with the unit it must be supplied in.

Width is a knitting decision, not a finishing one
needles = gauge x pi x cylinderDia openWidth = needles / walesPerCm

Every needle makes one wale, so the fabric has exactly as many wales as the cylinder has needles. Slitting the tube converts that into a single-layer width, and the only variable left is how many wales per centimetre the fabric relaxes to.

Both slit edges are lost
usableWidth = openWidth - 2 x edgeTrim

The needle line at the slit will not lie flat and single jersey curls hard at a cut edge, so a strip comes off each side. This is genuine loss, and it is the smaller of the two losses on this page.

The floor is where the yield goes
markersAcross = floor( usableWidth / markerWidth ) surplus = usableWidth - markersAcross x markerWidth

A marker either fits again or it does not. Five centimetres short of a third marker is worth exactly as little as eighty centimetres short of it, and the discontinuity is why marker width and cylinder diameter should be chosen together.

Uncut fabric priced as fabric
wastedValue = ( openWidth - markersAcross x markerWidth ) / 100 x rollLength x value

The surplus strip is fabric that was knitted, dyed and finished at full cost, and it leaves as waste or as a lower-value secondary use. Pricing it at full fabric value is the honest way to see it.

Symbols used above
SymbolStands forUnit
waleOne vertical column of loops, made by one needle—
open widthSingle-layer fabric width after the tube is slitcm
needle lineThe wale the slit runs along, distorted and normally trimmed—
markerThe cutting plan laid across the fabric widthcm

How the result is derived

Step by step, from the values you type to the figure on screen.

  1. The 7 inputs are read from the form on every keystroke: Machine Gauge, Cylinder Diameter, Wales in the Finished Fabric, Trim per Edge, Marker Width, Roll Length and Fabric Value.
  2. Each value is checked against the accepted range in the input table below. A value outside its range stops the calculation rather than producing a misleading figure — the results blank out and a message appears.
  3. The validated values are substituted into the expression above, which resolves Open Width After Slitting together with every supporting figure in one pass — no value is carried over from a previous entry.
  4. The supporting outputs — Width Actually Cut, Markers Across the Width, Strip Left Beside the Markers, Usable Width After Trim, Edge Trim Loss, Needles in the Cylinder, Roll Area, Area Not Cut and Value Not Cut — come from the same pass, so they always describe the same case as the headline figure.
  5. Results are rounded for display only. The full-precision value is used throughout the chain, so reading a rounded intermediate figure back into the tool by hand can shift the last digit.

What each input means

Where to read each value on the floor, the unit it must be in, and the range the tool accepts.

InputUnitAccepted rangeDefaultWhat it means
Machine Gaugenpi3 to 44 npi24
Cylinder Diameterin3 to 60 in30
Wales in the Finished Fabric/cm2 to 80 /cm13
Trim per Edgecm0 to 20 cm2.5Needle line and curl removed at each slit edge
Marker Widthcm10 to 300 cm82
Roll Lengthm10 to 5000 m800
Fabric Value/m20.1 to 200 /m24.2

What the tool returns

The headline figure and every supporting value it is built from.

OutputUnitWhat it tells you
Open Width After Slitting (headline result)cmNeedle count divided by wales per centimetre
Width Actually Cut%
Markers Across the Width—
Strip Left Beside the Markerscm
Usable Width After Trimcm
Edge Trim Loss%
Needles in the Cylinder—
Roll Aream2
Area Not Cutm2
Value Not Cut—

Worked example

Given

0
30 in cylinder at 24 gauge
1
Finished fabric at 13 wales/cm
2
2.5 cm trimmed from each slit edge
3
82 cm marker, 800 m roll, fabric worth 4.20/m2

Substituting

needles = 24 x pi x 30 = 2,261.9467openWidth = 2,261.9467 / 13 = 173.9959 cmusable = 173.9959 - 5 = 168.9959 cmmarkers = floor( 168.9959 / 82 ) = 2, surplus = 4.9959 cmwasted = ( 173.9959 - 164 ) / 100 x 800 = 79.9672 m2

Answer

0
2,261.9467 needles giving 173.9959 cm open width
1
168.9959 cm usable, so 2.8736% lost to edge trim
2
2 markers across, leaving a 4.9959 cm strip
3
94.2551% of the width actually cut
4
79.9672 m2 not cut from a 1,391.9672 m2 roll, worth 335.8623

The interesting question is what a slightly different machine would do. A 32 inch cylinder at the same gauge and density gives 185.6 cm open, 180.6 usable, and still only two markers - a worse result, because the extra 12 cm all becomes surplus. A 34 inch gives 197.2 cm open and fits two markers with 28 cm spare, which is worse again. Cylinder diameter and marker width interact discontinuously, and buying a wider machine can lower yield.

How to use it

  1. Work through the input groups in order — The Tube and Cutting & Value. The defaults are a realistic case, so you can change one value at a time and watch what moves.
  2. There is no calculate button. Every figure recalculates as you type or drag, which is what makes this usable for a what-if sweep rather than a single answer.
  3. Read Open Width After Slitting in the dark results panel — that is the headline figure, expressed in cm.
  4. Check the supporting rows underneath (Width Actually Cut, Markers Across the Width, Strip Left Beside the Markers, Usable Width After Trim, Edge Trim Loss, Needles in the Cylinder, Roll Area, Area Not Cut and Value Not Cut) before acting on the headline — they are where an implausible input usually shows itself first.
  5. Reset to defaults returns every field to the reference case, which is the quickest way to check whether a surprising result came from the tool or from an input you had changed earlier.

Where this is used

  • Process planning — establishing Open Width After Slitting before a trial is booked, so machine time and material in Knitting, Hosiery & Stretch-Fabric Control are committed against a calculated figure rather than an estimate.
  • Costing and quotation — Open Width After Slitting is an input to the cost sheet, and quoting from a worked number rather than a remembered one is what keeps a margin intact.
  • Troubleshooting — when the floor result drifts from plan, entering the measured values (starting with Machine Gauge) shows how much of the gap in Open Width After Slitting each variable explains.
  • Teaching and study — the accepted ranges bracket normal Knitting, Hosiery & Stretch-Fabric Control practice, so moving one variable at a time shows the shape of the relationship rather than a single answer.

Reading the result

Typical bands and what each one is telling you.

ValueWhat it indicates
Width utilisation above 92%A good match between cylinder diameter and marker width.
80 - 90%Common and worth re-planning; the surplus strip is the whole of the gap.
Edge trim 2 - 3 cm per sideNormal for single jersey; interlock and rib curl less and trim narrower.
Surplus above one third of a markerConsider a different marker width or a different machine for this quality.

Assumptions and limits

  • Open width is calculated from needle count and finished wales per centimetre, which assumes the fabric is measured relaxed and conditioned; a width taken on tensioned fabric or on greige will be substantially different and will make the marker fit wrong in the optimistic direction. Needle count is the geometric figure from gauge and diameter and ignores needles removed for a pattern or missing through breakage. The model assumes one slit and two trimmed edges; some qualities are slit at both needle lines of a two-track machine or trimmed asymmetrically, and the trim should then be entered as the total halved. Marker fit is computed for a single marker width repeated across; mixed markers of different widths nested across the fabric will do better than this figure and should be planned in a marker system rather than here. The surplus strip is priced at full fabric value, which is deliberate: any recovery value belongs in a separate calculation.
  • Every input is bounded to the range normal practice occupies (Machine Gauge 3 to 44 npi, Cylinder Diameter 3 to 60 in and Wales in the Finished Fabric 2 to 80 /cm, and so on for the rest). Those bounds are guard rails against typing errors, not a claim that the formula fails one unit outside them.
  • The calculation is deterministic: the same inputs always give the same result. It carries no allowance for machine condition, operator skill, ambient conditions or lot-to-lot material variation unless an input above explicitly represents one.
  • Nothing is sent anywhere. The maths runs in your browser, so the numbers you type never leave the page.

Standards and further reading

  • ISO 4921 - knitting, basic concepts, vocabulary.
  • ISO 3801 - determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area.
  • ASTM D3887 - tolerances for knitted fabrics, including width.
  • ASTM D5430 - visually inspecting and grading fabrics.

Questions people ask

Why slit at all rather than cut the fabric as a tube?

Tubular cutting is genuinely used and it eliminates both the trim and the side seams, which is why it survives for basic tee shirts and underwear where the body is a plain tube. It fails for anything else. The tube width is fixed by the machine, so the garment size is fixed by the machine, and a range of sizes needs a range of cylinders. Markers cannot be nested across a tube, so utilisation on a shaped panel is poor. And the two fold lines are permanent creases that will not press out of many finished fabrics. Slitting trades the trim loss for the freedom to lay any marker on any width, which for a mixed order book is a much better trade.

Should the fabric be stretched to make an extra marker fit?

It is possible on the stenter and it is usually a mistake. Knitted fabric will hold a forced width temporarily, and every centimetre gained that way is stored as residual shrinkage that reappears in the first wash - so the garment shrinks in width, the length grows, and a dimensional stability specification that was met at inspection fails at the customer. The exception is a fabric that has been over-relaxed and is being brought back to its natural width, which is a correction rather than a stretch. The honest way to gain the marker is a narrower marker, a different cylinder, or accepting the surplus and selling it as a secondary cut.

How much does wales per centimetre move between greige and finished?

Enough to change the answer entirely, which is why the finished figure is the input here. A single jersey coming off the machine might measure 11 wales/cm and finish at 13 to 14 after relaxation and compacting, and each of those is a different open width from the same cylinder - 205 cm at 11, 174 cm at 13, 162 cm at 14. Planning a marker against the greige width is therefore always wrong, and planning it against a width measured on tensioned fabric is wrong in the same direction. The number to use is the wales per centimetre of relaxed, finished fabric conditioned to standard atmosphere, measured on the actual quality.

Is the surplus strip really a total loss?

Not always, and how much of it is recoverable is worth establishing rather than assuming. A five centimetre strip is too narrow for panels but wide enough for binding, pocket bags, neck tape or facings if the quality suits, and cutting rooms that plan for it recover a real fraction. Beyond that it goes to fabric waste, which has a small recycling value and a disposal cost. The figure here prices it at full fabric value deliberately, because that is the number that should be in front of whoever chooses the marker width - once it is discounted to a recovery value the incentive to fix the fit disappears, and the fit is the thing worth fixing.

Convert this result

Reference rate of 2026-10-05, published by the European Central Bank. Source

A reference rate is not a dealing rate. Banks and payment providers apply their own spread, so treat this as the mid-market figure a quotation is negotiated around rather than the money that will arrive.

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