All the descriptions of the fusing processes that have been included ,have represented it as a single piece of interlining, laid resin side down,on a single piece of garment fabric ,laid right side down. This is referred to as single fusing and it is the safest in the sense that it is easiest to set the press conditions to achieve the correct temperature at the glue line.Some other methods of fusing in garment contruction are Reserve fusing,Sandwich fusing, double fusing
The challenge in Fusing Technology
- Modern fashion fabrics and interlinings are more delicate.
- Fabrics are generally finer and lighter.
- They are more sensible to temperature and pressure.
- They have more tendency to shrinkage under temperature.
- Many fabrics are elastic, some in both directions.
- Textile finish with softeners can effect fusing.
- Modern fusible interlinings are lighter and thinner.
- There is more chance of strike back of resins.
- For a soft hand the resin quantity should be at minimum.
Some of the variations will now be described and illustrating them will demonstrate some of the method of garment construction that involves fusible interlinings. The main variations are:
- Reserve fusing:
In this method the outer fabric lies on top of the fusible. It is sometimes used in fusing shirt and blouse collars. On flat bed presses with elements only in the top platen, it is necessary to adjust temperature settings.
- Sandwich fusing: This is effectively carried out only on a horizontal continuous press where heat is applied both from above and below. Two pairs of components,forming two laminates, are fused together, with the two outer fabrics on the outside of the sandwich (of four layers) and the two interlinings on the inside. With correct temperature settings, the glue line temperature may be achieved in both laminates but the potential for strike-back occurring and causing all the layers to adhere together is considerable.
- Double Fusing: This is the fusing of two sorts of interlining to the outer fabric in one operation. It is most commonly used in shirt collars and men’s jacket fronts.