Woven Fabric Construction
Fabrics can be constructed in a variety of ways, ranging from the matting together of fibrous materials to the intricate interlacing of complex yarn systems.
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Fabric
Covers fabric constructions from woven and knitted to nonwovens and composites. Details GSM, cover factor, drape, air permeability, pilling resistance, and handle. Includes test methods and how structure drives performance. This section explains practical decision criteria, typical test methods, and failure modes that matter in real production. Readers get checklists, calculation steps, and case examples connecting specifications to cost, reliability, and compliance. Links map core concepts to upstream inputs and downstream processes so choices remain consistent across sourcing, manufacturing, and end-use performance. Each article includes definitions, diagrams where helpful, and plain-language notes to help newcomers ramp quickly while giving experienced professionals the depth needed to troubleshoot and optimize. Standards references are cited with context, and whenever trade-offs exist, we make them explicit so you can defend decisions.
Basic Weaving Operations
In weaving, no matter what type of weaving is being done, four major operations are performed in sequence and are continuously repeated, they are Shedding, Picking, Beating Up, Taking Up and Letting Off.
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Knitted Fabrics for Elasticity, thickness and warmth
The elasticity of knitted fabrics gives them an excellent drape, but this is opposed somewhat by their generally greater thickness compared to wovens.
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Diamond and Diagonal Weaves
Diagonal weave are basically type of twill weaves confined to bold twills running at angles greater than 45°, although often regular 45° twills are spoken of as diagonals; regular diagonals are generally formed by combining two regular 45° twills in their picks or ends.Diamond weaves are type of twill weave which forms the shape of a perfect diamond.
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Skip and Pointed Twills
Skip twills are a type of broken twill effects formed by a skip drawing-in draft and a regular twill weave as a chain draft. The weaves that form a wave effects across the cloth known as pointed twills. These effects are also frequently spoken of as herring banes, or herring-bones stripes, because the radiating twill lines suggest the radiating bones of a fish’s backbone.
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Fancy entwining and Curved Twill
Fancy entwining twill effects are obtained by omitting one or more twill lines from each section and continuing the remaining twill lines of each section until they meet these of the other section. By this it means that two blank spaces are made in the weave, in which other weaves may be inserted. Curved twills are those in which the twill lines have a wavy, or curved, nature instead of being perfectly straight as in an ordinary twill weave. There are two methods of constructing these weaves,
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Fancy Twills
The fancy twill is formed by placing small spots between the main lines of twill. The first end of the weave should be a continuation of the last end and the first pick should be a continuation of the last pick, so that the weave will continue perfectly when repeated in either direction.
Waving Combination Twills: Techniques and Applications
Discover waving combination twills, dynamic zigzag weaves blending durability and style. Learn techniques and sustainable applications for eco-friendly textiles.
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Derivatives of twill Weaves
Derivatives Formed by Rearranging Ends or Picks- The number of what may be termed fundamental weaves is comparatively small, but the weaves that may be derived from them are innumerable. Thus, if a simple twill weave is shown out in design paper, several other weaves may be obtained from it by rearranging either the ends or the picks. Designs thus obtained are termed derivatives.
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Angles of twill weave
The angle of twill weave is determined by the amount of shift in the points of interlacing.A one pick one end shift twill weaves called 45-degree will.A twill weave which has more than one pick shift and one end shift is called steep twill; if the shift is more than one end and one pick it is called reclining twill.
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