Fancy entwining and Curved Twill
Fancy entwining twill effects are obtained by omitting one or more twill lines from each section and continuing the remaining twill lines of each section until they meet these of the other section. By this it means that two blank spaces are made in the weave, in which other weaves may be inserted. Curved twills are those in which the twill lines have a wavy, or curved, nature instead of being perfectly straight as in an ordinary twill weave. There are two methods of constructing these weaves,
Fancy Entwining Twill Weave
Fancy entwining twill effects are obtained by omitting one or more twill lines from each section and continuing the remaining twill lines of each section until they meet those of the other section. By this, it means that two blank spaces are made in the weave, in which other weaves may be inserted To illustrate the construction of these weaves, suppose that it is desired to make a fancy entwining twill effect on 24 ends and 24 picks with the 3/3 twill.
In an ordinary entwining twill, this would require four twill lines in each section, but since this is to be a fancy effect two of the twill lines in each section will be omitted. Fig. 42 (a) shows the weave constructed up to this point, but since two twill lines have been omitted from each section it is necessary to continue the two remaining twill lines across the space that would have been occupied by the other twill lines until they meet those of the other section, as shown in Fig. 42 (b). This leaves two blank spaces, as shown, in which any desired weave may be inserted, thus producing a fancy entwining twill, as shown in Fig. 42 (c), where the inserted weave is indicated by the shaded risers.
Curved Twill Weave
These are those in which the twill lines have a wavy, or curved, nature instead of being perfectly straight as in an ordinary twill weave. There are two methods of constructing these weaves, although the results are very similar in either case.
The first method consists of amalgamating several sections of twill weaves running at different angles, while by the second method the curved effect is obtained with a regular twill weave for a chain draft and a drawing-in draft so arranged as to produce the desired effect. Fig. 43 shows several repeats of a curved twill constructed in accordance with the first method.
This weave repeats on 32 ends and 8 picks and is composed of four sections of 8 ends each; the East section is the regular 8-end 45° twill 4/4; the second section is a twill having an angle of 63°; the third section is a twill with an angle of 72°; and the fourth section is like the second. It will be noticed that each end of the weave interlaces in the same manner as someone of the first 8 ends; therefore, the weave may be woven with 8 harnesses and the first 8 ends as a chain draft if the proper drawing·in draft is used; this shows that the second method of constructing curved twills is really based on the first. Fig. 44 (a) shows several repeats of curved twill constructed by the second method with the chain draft shown in the following
Fig. 44 (6) and the drawing-in draft Fig. 44 (c). The first end of the effect in Fig. 44 (a) is like the first end of Fig. 44 (b); the second end is like the fourth end; the third, like the seventh; the fourth, like the tenth; and so on, each end of Fig. 44 (b) being taken in the order indicated by the drawing-in draft in Fig. 44 (c).