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Characteristics of Twill Weave

Twill Weave is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa. Plain weave is also known as “tabby weave” or “taffeta weave”.Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.

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Common Characteristics of Twill Weaves

  • May have face/back and up/down orientation
  • Interesting surface and texture
  • Seldom printed
  • The soil is less evident
  • More pliable
  • Better wrinkle recovery
  • High counts possible (more durable)
  • More expensive
  • Wale may be prominent

Common twill fabrics

  1. Even sided:
    • Serge – Common worsted suiting fabric, 2/2 RH
    • Herringbone – Alternating twill
    • Checks – Color effect weaves, usually 2/2 Twill
    • Houndstooth
    • Surah- silk or silky yarns
  2. warp-faced
    • Denim – (Serge de Nimes), Classically 3/1 LH
    • Gabardine – Steep twill, slacks, uniform
  3. Twills are not as strong as plain weaves with similar construction.
  4. Twills show less dirt/stains because of their uneven surface as compared to plain weaves
  5. Recover better from wrinkles
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