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SHIRT MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Men’s shirt manufacturing processes, major components of shirts, types of shirts, types of pockets, types of plackets, types of cuffs, types of collars

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SHIRT STITCHING PROCESS

COLLAR PREPARATION

  • Step 1: Apply the fusing to any of the one cut collar pieces by ironing it
  • Step 2: Place both the piece above each other of the collar with one having fusing facing upwards and sew at 1/16th inch away from the fusing edge of the collar from one side edge to the longer outer curved edge till the other side edge of the collar as shown

Note: For the pointed edge of the collar while stitching stop the needle one stitch before the turning of a pointed edge then insert a thread inside and pull it inside and stitch further

  • Step 3: trim the extra Allowance 1/8th inch at both the corner edge and 2/8 inch at the rest edges to avoid the bulkiness of the fabric
  • Step 4: Turn the collar right side out and gently pull the thread outwards for a clean pointed edge finish
  • Step 5: Press the collar flat by setting the seam edge so that both the bottom edge becomes equal to each other
  • Step 6: Topstitch to the outside along three stitched seams of the collar to make it look more finished and to hold its shape

ATTACHMENT OF COLLAR TO THE COLLAR STAND

  • Step 7: line up the collar to the collar stand that has fusing attached to it
  • Step 8: Keeping the needle 1/16th inch away from the fusing edge, stitch the collar to the collar stand with fusing facing upwards
  • Step 9: Now take another collar stand piece and press up its seam allowance on the curved edge
  • Step 10: Sandwich the collar between the two collars stand pieces on wrong sides facing out
  • Step 11: {Pin in place then stitch from one corner to another along the curved edge keeping the needle 1/16th inch away from the fusing edge
  • Step 12: Similar to the collar, trim the excess allowance leaving 1/8th inch at the corner edge and 2/8th inch at the rest edges
  • Step 13: Turn the collar stand right side out and press the round sides to get a clean seam finish
  • Step 14: Topstitch along the three stitched seams

BUTTON PLACKET

  • Step 1: Draw three straight lines on the right centre front one of ½ inch, 2nd of 1 inch and 3rd of 1/2inch.
  • Step 2: Cut a 1-inch wide piece of fusing as long as the length of the shirt front and fix it on the one-inch line on the wrong side of the fabric and fold the fabric inwards towards the wrong side following the folding line which is ½ inch, 1 inch and again ½ inch
  • Step 3: Press along the folds and stitch the placket to the shirt along the entire length close to the folding line.

NOTE: Cross stitch a four-hole button in place. Go through the holes twice.

BUTTONHOLE PLACKET

The same process of the button placket will be followed in the buttonhole placket with a slight change in the width of the placket. The only difference will be that there will be two stitch lines on the buttonhole placket, one on the wrong side of the placket closed to the folding line, and another from the top side, topstitch the placket down 1/8th inch away from the seam line.

Carefully stitch buttonholes in place making sure they are evenly spaced.

POCKET ATTACHMENT (FRONT LEFT PANEL)

  • Step 1: First press one cm seam allowance of the cut piece of the pocket than to the inside
  • Step 2: Double fold the 1cm seam allowance to the inside and 3cm down from the top edge and sew the top edge
  • Step 3: Pin the pocket in place on the top of the shirt front.
  • Step 4: Once the pocket is pinned and topstitched onto the shirt body at 1mm from the edge around all the 3 sides except the top opening of the pocket.

YOKE ATTACHMENT

  • Step 1: Place one back yoke cut piece on the right side of the back panel and the other piece of the yoke on the wrong side such that the back panel piece is sandwiched in the middle.
  • Step 2: with the top yoke on the right side facing the back panel sew (run stitch) from one end to another.
  • Step 3: After attaching the yoke to the back panel, keeping both the yoke panels upwards, press and topstitch along the horizontal seam line of the yoke. (Close to the seam line)

SHOULDER ATTACHMENT (RIGHT-HAND SIDE)

  • Step 1: Place the right side (RS) of the inner yoke facing the wrong side of the front shoulder and stitch (run stitch) from one end to the other.
  • Step 2: Twist the upper edge of the yoke inwards so that it turns and cover the raw edge of the previously attached front and inner yoke. So that no seam is seen inside or outside for the clean finish.
  • Step 3: Press the shoulder seam flat and topstitch close to the shoulder seam line.
  • Step 4: Front panel is now connected to the back panel ready for the sleeve and collar attachment.
  • Step 5: The same process will be followed while attaching the left-hand side shoulder too.

COLLAR ATTACHMENT

  • Step 1: With the right sides together, pin the bottom seams of the unfused collar stand onto the neckline of the shirt making sure that the centre notches and centre back line match up. Also, match the length of the collar which should fit the length of the shirt neckline
  • Step 2: Stitch along the seam and press open.
  • Step 3: Take the other fused collar stand panel, and press the seam allowance to the inner side (WS of the stand)
  • Step 4: With the attached collar stand right side facing operator, lay the collar panel on the top along the top seam of the collar stand. Place the pressed collar stand on the top with its wrong side facing operator (upwards).
  • Step 5: Pin all these layers together, matching all the centre notches
  • Step 6: Stitch along the seam, on the curved seam from one end to another making sure that the stitch catches the edge of the inside panel.
  • Step 7: Press and topstitch along the whole seam of the collar stand.

SLEEVE PLACKET ATTACHMENT (LEFT-HAND SIDE)

  • Step1: Place the cut piece of the placket on the cut piece of the sleeve with both the wrong side facing upwards towards the operator matching the cutting line marking
  • Step 2: Stitch along the rectangular box around the cutting line (i.e. red line)
  • Step 3: Cut the opening line (midline of the stitched rectangular box) with a v-shaped close to stitched line.
  • Step 4: Turn the sleeve over and with the right side flip the placket through the opening.
  • Step 5: Place the under placket against the small side and fold twice along the folding line and stitch close to the folding line.
  • Step 6: On the other side, fold the end forming a diamond shape point of both and ends and press.
  • Step 7: Place the pointed part at exactly the same position as the under placket. Now stitch close to the folding line, enclosing the raw edges under the placket.

Note: The same process will be followed while attaching the right-hand side placket.

SLEEVE ATTACHMENT

  • Step 1: Place the cut piece of the sleeve above the front and back-stitched panel so that both the right side is facing upwards with the sleeve curve. Position opposite the armhole curve
  • Step 2: Make sure your mid sleeve notch match the shoulder line of the shirt. Then continue by pinning the sleeve at both the side notches and the beginning and end of the armhole by making sure that the sleeve perfectly matches at both ends of the armhole
  • Step 3: Now start stitching from one end to another end leaving a ½ inch allowance at the sleeve cap.
  • Step 4: From inside, press the seam allowance towards the inside of the sleeve cap. From the outside, press with a bit of steam to shape and set round of the sleeve cap.

Note: The same process will be followed while attaching the other hand side sleeve too.

INNER ARMHOLE FINISHING

  • Step 1: Cut the seam allowance of the bodice down to 0.5 cm
  • Step 2: Press seam towards the bodice using curved end of the ironing board to achieve a clean finish
  • Step 3: Press 0.5 cm of the large seam allowance and double-fold to the inside and topstitch the seam in place.
  • Note: Inside shows two rows of stitched lines. The original stitched line and the second row.

Note: Outside shows one row of stitches. Only the second stitch line of the inner portion is visible.

SIDE SEAM ATTACHMENT

  • Step 1: Placing both front and back panels above each other with both the right-side panel facing each other and the wrong side of the upper panel facing towards the operator, stitch from the bottom hem leaving a 1-inch allowance.
  • Step 2: Secure the armhole by matching the sleeve seams with the help of pins and continue stitching till the bottom edge of the seam.
  • Step 3: Finish the inner raw edge by overlock (cutting 1cm of the allowance) the side seam and sleeve.

BOTTOM HEMMING

  • Step 1: Turn the hem twice first folding at ½ inch then double fold it at 1 inch and press it inwards towards the wrong side.
  • Step 2: Press and stitch 1mm from the folding edge

SPECIFICATIONS

  • Stitch Type: Chain Stitch & Lock Stitch
  • Button Type: 4 Hole plastic round button (16 ligne) Fusing Type: MicroDot Fusing
  • Fabric Type: Cotton SPI: 11
  • Pocket Type: Diamond Pocket

SHIRT SEAM TYPES

  1. Side Seam – LSC (Felled Seam); Stitch type- Two-needle 401 chain stitch

  2. Patch Pocket – LSD – Patch Pocket; Stitch type- 301 Lockstitch

  3. Collar & Cuff – SSE – Run Stitch & Top Stitch; Stitch type- 301 Lockstitch

  4. Yoke attachment & Shoulder Attachment- SSQ – Seam, Fold and Stitch

  5. Sleeve Attachment – SSW( Mock Felled Seam); Stitch type- 301 Lockstitch

  6. Edge Finish / Bottom Hemming – EFB, Clean Finish Stitch type- 301 Lockstitch

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